Everest | 1985 S Col-SE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Everest in 1985 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Kuniaki Yagihara. Summit reached on 30th October 1985. 14 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 492
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER85304
Peak ID EVER
Year 1985
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Kuniaki Yagihara
Sponsor Naomi Uemura Film Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 72nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1985-09-16
Summit Date 1985-10-30
Summit Time 0950
Summit Days 44
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 12
Summit Members 7
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 12
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(16/09,5350m),C1(01/10,6000m),C2(04/10,6500m),C3(14/10,7450m),C4(28/10,7980m),Smt(30/10)
Route Notes BC at usual site C1 at top of Icefall C2 in Western Cwm C3 on Lhotse Face C4 at South Col. 4-14th Oct bad weather. 14-28th Indians not making successful ascent and Japanese had to wait. Fimally at end of Oct Indians agreed Japanese could now go up. On 30th, Ang Rita and Ang Phurba set out for top with Japanese on 30th, but both turned back. Ang Rita was attempting 4th ascent without oxygen. Akutsu and Kimoto bivouacked at 8600m on descent. 16 Sept-1 Oct film-shooting and Indians not climbing "so we couldn't go up." 4-14 Oct bad weather. 14-28 Indians not making successful ascent and Japanese had to wait, finally at end of Oct Indians agreed Japanese could now go up (Yagihara had already decided would send up summit party on 30 Oct). On 30th Ang Rita and Ang Phurba set out for top with 8 Japanese on 30th including Saito but 2 Sherpas and Saito turned back after 100-200m only (Ang Rita throat trouble, other 2 oxygen masks broken). Yagihara at top 9:50 and Yamada 10:00 am; returned to C4 about 2:30 pm. Nazuka and Saegusa to C4 also and 3 on down to C3 leaving in C4 Murakami, Saegusa and Sato. Akutsu couldn't came down (snowblinded and tired), so Kimoto and he bived at 8600m beyond South Summit without biv equipment. Murakami alone carried up [the next day with oxygen for rescue]. Oxygen and reached bived men at 3:00 am (if he did not go Akutso, aged 47, would have died) although had oxygen all night). Kimoto had bad frostbitten toes and heel, Sato bad frostbite 7-8 fingers. No more summit bids because very cold and strong wind after that (30 Oct including, no wind). Miyazaki had altitude problems and to C2 only. Did not see Mrs Schmatz's body nor Chinese tripod.
Accidents Kimoto badly frostbitten toes and heel; Sato bad frostbite 7-8 fingers; no more summit bids because very cold and strong wind; after that Miyazaki had altitude problems
Achievement Oldest Japanese on summit
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448489
Year 1985
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

14 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Etsuo Akutsu M 1938 Japan Climber Asaka, Saitama, Japan Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Satoshi Kimoto M 1956 Japan Climber Nagareyama, Chiba, Japan Quality-control inspector in factory Details Other expeditions
Toshiyuki Kobayashi M 1965 Japan Climber Kiryu, Gunma, Japan Student, technology Details Other expeditions
Tsutomu Miyazaki M 1947 Japan Deputy Leader Maebashi, Gunma, Japan Shopkeeper, sporting goods Details Other expeditions
Kazunari Murakami M 1955 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Plumber Details Other expeditions
Hideji Nazuka M 1954 Japan Climber Maebashi, Gunma, Japan Truck driver Details Other expeditions
Teruo Saegusa M 1957 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Yasuhira Saito M 1953 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Assistant cameraman Details Other expeditions
Mitsuyoshi Sato M 1961 Japan Climber Matsuida, Gunma, Japan Warehouse worker Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Tashiro M 1950 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Kuniaki Yagihara M 1946 Japan Leader Maebashi, Gunma, Japan Telephone technician Details Other expeditions
Noboru Yamada M 1950 Japan Climber Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan Salesman, sporting goods Details Other expeditions
Ang Rita Sherpa M 1948 Nepal H-A Worker Yilajung, Khumbu High-altitude porter Details Other expeditions
Ang Phurba Sherpa M 1961 Nepal H-A Worker Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

9 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER85304 AAJ Yagihara, Kuniaki - - 60:228 (1986) -
EVER85304 JAC Yamada, Norboru K2, Everest and Manaslu: Successive Climbs of 3 8000ers in 1985 - 81:21-31 (1986) -
EVER85304 HJ Yagihara, Kuniaki Japan Everest Expedition, 1985 - 43:119-120 (1985-1986) -
EVER85304 MM - - - 108:11 (Mar 1986) -
EVER85304 JAC Yamada, Norboru K2, Everest and Manaslu: Successive Climbs of 3 8000ers in 1985 - 81:24-32 (1986) -
EVER85304 IM Yamada, Norboru Three 8000 Summits in One Year - K2, Everest, and Manaslu - 21:41-53 (Spring 1988) -
EVER85304 IWA - - - :43 (1986) -
EVER85304 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198622801/Asia-Nepal-Everest - - -
EVER85304 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/43/21/expeditions-and-notes-43/ - - -