Everest | 1983 S Col-SE Ridge

A USA expedition to Everest in 1983 via S Col-SE Ridge, led by Gerhard Lenser. Summit reached on 7th May 1983. 23 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 469
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID EVER83102
Peak ID EVER
Year 1983
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Gerhard Lenser
Sponsor German-American Sagarmatha Everest 1983
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 52nd,53rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Nepal, W Germany
Approach Khumbu Valley
Basecamp Date 1983-04-01
Summit Date 1983-05-07
Summit Time 1600
Summit Days 36
Total Days 55
Termination Date 1983-05-26
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8849
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 16
Summit Members 6
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 22
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(01/04,5395m),C1(17/04,5900m),C2(21/04,6490m),C3(29/04,7315m),C4(06/05,7995m),C5(8380m),Smt(07,14/05)
Route Notes 17th May attempted by Bass, Hixson, Thapa, Nuru Zanbu, Lhakpa Tshering and Ang Dale reached 26,000 ft to 28,200 ft, turned back because of deep snow (which not deeper than on 14th). 21 May - Bass, Thapa and Ershler to C3; Wells, Ang Rita and Phortse Gyalgen to C4. 23 May - Ershler descended. 24 May - Wells and Sherpas descended; Bass, Thapa and 2 Sherpas to C4. Mrs. Schmatz [body] seen by Bass and Hixson. Kato and Kabayashi [bodies] not seen but Sherpas found Kato helmet; Kobayoshi diary tripod not seen. Started into icefall 5th April but very hard ice took long time to make way through it. Larry Neilson, Gerry Roach, Peter Jamieson, Dave Breashears and Sherpa reached the summit on May 7. Nielson and Ang Rita climbed without supplemental oxygen, Nielson being the first American to accomplish such feat. On May 14th the team of Gary Neptune, Jim States and Sherpa Lhakpa Dorje reached the summit. Climbing leader Phil Ershler and Ang Phurba Sherpa attempted summit climb on the same day without oxygen but were forced to turn back due to imminent risk of frostbite. On May 17, the team of Dick Bass, Ed Hixson, Yogendra Thapa and Sherpas Norbu Jangbu, Lhakpa Tshering and Ang Dale set out from the South Col but were forced to turn around late in the morning at 28,000 ft level owing to deep soft snows which prevented further progress at that altitude. On May 21 the fourth team of Frank Wells and Sherpas Ang Rita and Phortse Gyalzen reached the South Col at 26,200 ft. Two hours after reaching the col a severe wind storm started with winds placed at 50 mph gusting up to [?] mph. The three attempted to wait out the storm for 3 nights and the storm for 3 nights and 4 days at the col but with no sign of [relief and] food supplies running low the three were forced back to C2 on fourth day. Bass, Thapa and two Sherpas launched their second attempt on May 24. They fought through the continuing windstorm and reached C4 at the South Col late on 24th only to be pinned down in their tents for two further days before finally being forced to retreat. Wells then attempted to organize a further assault only to find there was insufficient oxygen left for any further. Climbing activities on the mountain were then officially terminated by climbing leader Ershler with all climbers and Sherpas returning safely through the rapidly deteriorating icefall to base camp. Bass and Wells, the organizers of the seven summits Everest expedition, commented upon their return to base Camp: "We are both personnaly disappointed that we did not reach the summit - particularly when each of us feels somewhat to our own surprise - given the way we reacted to high altitude. We could have reached the summit had the weather and deep snows not prevented us from going further. At the same time we are deeply [gratified] that everyone has returned safely that the expedition placed and 8 climbers on top including the first American without oxygen (covered in an amazing technological achievement by microwave transmission) and frankly that we each reached the legendary 8000m level or higher there only 14 mountains in the world which reach 8000 meters. After trying Everest from Tibet last year and Nepal this year, will they try again? Bass suggestive. Roach and Jamieson: Expedition over, ended today all coming down or one down Bass, Thapa 2nd attempt for summit on Wed; reached 28,000 ft and turned back because bad weather. Wells at BC 17,700 ft. Bass and Thapa C2 to BC today probably with Neptune and Marts. Doubt Wells got above C4. Expedition probably leaving BC tomorrow. No indication anyone not used too bad. Dick is fundamentally strong enough to climb Everest in right situation, but that situation did not present itself, i.e., good weather, good oxygen, good logistics. Jamieson: "I'm sorry they didn't make it cause they spent great deal of time and effort and many in hopes of reaching summit, which was a goal that was very important to them and their seven summits endeavour. However their failure to reach the summit by no means detracts from the success of their Everest expedition." Total expedition extremely successful says Jamieson. Nielson - 24 May 83 Bass going to C4 from C3. Wells down to C3 from C4. "I would suspect it means that Frank's giving up." Don't know who's with Bass and Wells. Ershler is in BC. They spent 3 days in C3 and he's not using oxygen and were wearing out. Hixson yesterday much improved. ABC/HEV - 23 May 83 Wells and Bass still in C4 and C3 respectively because too much snow from yesterday; today fine. Hixson in hospital. Don't know what went wrong; extreme altitude sickness; came from BC yesterday by helicopter. Ershler down to C2 today; "looks like he's calling it quits." Nielson - 14 May 83 Phil has excellent judgement, so if he turned around there was a good reason. I personally hope that if he turned around I'd like to see him go again and maybe use oxygen there next time. I know he is dedicated to not using oxygen but hope he'll use it if necessary. He went to 26,000 ft on Everest North Face last without oxygen. "The more people we get to the top the stronger is our expedition. We don't have people with big names on our expedition [experience], but we have a lot strong people." Lenser not planning summit bid; staying in BC. Icefall glacier surging and moving now and breaking up since a week ago. Top part fallen in thrice. "Longer you stay high, the more your body will deteriorate." Ershler likely to have come down to C2. "He's respected enough by the expedition that I'm sure they will want him in the 3rd or 4th group. 3rd attempt Monday or Tuesday. Leave enough time for 2nd party to return to C2 this clears C3 and C4. A C5 likely to be only a tent and oxygen for use on descent plus perhaps extra Sherpas carrying oxygen. 3 am would be dark but 4 am light enough not to need flashlights. Ang Rita's use of oxygen - Spring 83: Ang Rita actually did use bottled oxygen, according to American climber David Breashears, who went to the summit of Everest on the same day as Ang Rita, the 7th of May, on the American expedition led by Phil Ershler and Gerhard Lenser. Breashears said in a letter to me dated 2 July, 1987, "during my ascent of Everest in May of 1983, I shared a tent on the South Col which was our high camp with Ang Rita. At that time, he used oxygen for sleeping before and after our summit ascent. On the summit day, he was carrying a bottle of oxygen and a regulator, but deposited this in the snow several hundred feet above the Col. The entire summit day was spent by him without the use of supplemental oxygen." "Please keep in mind that I present these facts to you for the purpose of keeping the record straight. I don't believe that Ang Rita would deny the above (which he has done several times since 1987), or that it matters to him. I can't think of a stronger climbing companion or a Sherpa for whom I have more respect than Ang Rita, and he did climb Everest in 1984 with the Czech expedition without any use of oxygen whatsoever." On 17th October 1988, Breashears told me that Ang Rita definitely slept on oxygen at the South Col in 1983. They shared a Y-connection from the same bottle in the same tent.
Accidents Hixson apparently had stroke leaving S Col in descent and seriously affected; Nielson and Jamieson frostbite
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447535
Year 1983
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-se ridge

Members

23 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Lawrence Darius (Larry) Nielson M 1947 USA Climber Olympia, Washington School teacher Details Other expeditions
Richard Daniel (Dick) Bass M 1929 USA Deputy Leader Dallas, Texas Oil geologist Details Other expeditions
Philip Michael (Phil) Ershler M 1951 USA Climbing Leader Bellevue, Washington Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Edward G. Hixson M 1941 USA Exp Doctor Saranac Lake, New York Surgeon Details Other expeditions
Peter Jamieson M 1955 USA Climber Durango, Colorado Manager, mountaineering-equipment shop Details Other expeditions
Rodney Allison Korich M 1947 USA BC Manager Jamestown, Colorado Worker, travel and construction field Details Other expeditions
Gerhard Lenser M 1929 W Germany Leader Freiburg im Breisgau, Baden-Wuerttemberg, W Germany Publisher Details Other expeditions
Stephen (Steve) Marts M 1938 USA Climber Seattle, Washington Professional film-maker Details Other expeditions
Gary Robert Neptune M 1945 USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Sells mountaineering equipment Details Other expeditions
Gerard A. (Gerry) Roach M 1943 USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Computer scientist Details Other expeditions
James H. (Jim) States M 1945 USA Climber Spokane, Washington Physician Details Other expeditions
Yogendra Bahadur Thapa M 1948 Nepal Climber Kathmandu Inspector Nepal Police Details Other expeditions
Frank G. Wells M 1932 USA Climber Beverly Hills, California Attorney Details Other expeditions
David Finlay Breashears M 1955 USA Film Team Newton, Massachusetts Film-maker Details Other expeditions
Peter Pilafian M 1943 USA Film Team Jackson, Wyoming Cinematographer Details Other expeditions
Richard L. (Rick) Ridgeway M 1949 USA Film Team Ventura, California Film-maker Details Other expeditions
Ang Rita Sherpa M 1948 Nepal H-A Worker Yilajung, Khumbu High-altitude porter Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa M 1958 Nepal H-A Worker Phortse, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Tshering Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Khunde, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ang Dale Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Phurba Sherpa M 1961 Nepal H-A Worker Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Norbu Jangbu Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Gyalgen (Phortse Gyalzen) Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Phortse, Khumbu Trekking guide & alpinist Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
EVER83102 AAJ Roach, Gerald A. - - 58:238-239 (1984) -
EVER83102 MM - - - 92:9 (Jul 1983) -
EVER83102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198423804/Asia-Nepal-Mount-Everest - - -