Dudh Kundali | 2008 E Face-S Ridge

A France expedition to Dudh Kundali in 2008 via E Face-S Ridge, led by Paulo Grobel. Summit reached on 11th November 2008. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 6240
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DUDH08301
Peak ID DUDH
Year 2008
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Face-S Ridge
Route 2 E Face-S Ridge (up); NW Ridge (down)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Paulo Grobel
Sponsor French Patrasi Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 2nd, 3rd
Ascent 2 4th
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Juphal->Hurikot->Jagdula Khola->Latang Khola
Basecamp Date 2008-11-08
Summit Date 2008-11-11
Summit Time -
Summit Days 3
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6045
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 7
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(08/11,4200m),Biv1(09/11,4750m),Biv2(10/11,5100m),C1(11/11,5400m),Smt(11-13/11)
Route Notes The expedition planned to reach the mountains by taking scheduled flights Kathmandu/Nepalgunj/Juphal airfield for Dunai, but instead had to fly Kathmandu/Pokhara by scheduled flight and Pokhara/Juphal in a chartered plane. From Juphal, they trekked to the Thuli Bheri River to its junction with the Chang Khola, northwest along the Chang Khola to Hurikot, and north from Hurikot along the Jagdula Khola. Their intention was to continue northward and climb Kanjiroba from its western side, but when they got halfway there, they found the way ahead impassable for their porters without fixed rope. They didn't have the necessary rope, so they had to change their objective and decided to climb the 6042m-high Dudh Kundali south of it. They retreated southwards. They chose to approach Dudh Kundali from the northwest and made BC on 8 November at 4200m southwest of the Panipatta Khola. On the 9th they bivouacked on the moraine at 4750m and on the 10th on the glacier at 5100m. On 11 November they pitched camp at 5400m on the East Face of Dudh Kundali. On the same day, the 11th, Grobel and Cho Temba went up the mountain to make the route to the summit for the others. They left the camp at 11:00 am, climbed the East Face to 5850m, where it met the South Ridge, and followed the ridge to the top, which they reached at 4:30 pm. They rested on the summit for half an hour, then returned to camp at 7:00 pm. The South Ridge is steep (40 degrees) and very sharp, and it had a covering of snow. "It was a technical climb." The next day, the 12th, Grobel led others to the summit. Gobil, Lapras, Quatrini, Riverieulx, Wagner and Grobel left camp at 7:30 am, arrived at the summit at 12:30 pm, spent half an hour there and descended to BC between 4:00 and 5:00 pm. On the 13th, Berthet, who hadn't been feeling very well on the 12th, was ready for his summit bid, so Grobel and he went up from the camp at 7:00 am and were on the top at 11:00 am. They took a different route in their descent: they traversed to the NW Ridge, descended the eastern slope of the ridge and went north to the lake called Jagdula Tal by the local people. They were in BC at 7:00 pm. On the 14th, Grobel, Lapras, and Cho Temba bivouacked by the lake at 4650m. The next day they went southwest, crossed a pass westwards to the Ludbu Khola, climbed an 5518m unnamed peak via its easy western slope, and bivouacked at 4200m beside the Khola. On the 16th they followed the Ludbu [Bhitta] Khola southwest to Naphukana and Chotra villages and slept in a house in Chotra. On the 17th they set out for Jumla, where they arrived on the 18th. Meanwhile the rest of the team had started trekking to Jumla on the 13th and on the 18th Grobel's party met them there. They all flew by scheduled flight from Jumla to Kathmandu on the 19th. All members had reached their camp at 5400m on Dudh Kundali's East Face, but Berthaud, Lechien and Perrette had gone no higher. All three had slight altitude problems. Grobel does not claim to have mae Dudh Kundali's first ascent. He gives that credit to Herbert Tichy, who made the first ascent of Cho Oyu in 1954 and in the autumn of 1953 climbed Dudh Kundali but called it Dui Tal Chuli (Two Lakes Peak) Sherpa: Cho Temba, 5/10/84, Makalu-9, no 8000ers
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Thamserku Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2460795
Year 2008
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e face-s ridge

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Sandy Berthaud F 1976 France Climber Val-des-Pres, Hautes-Alpes, France Saleswoman Details Other expeditions
Jean Berthet M 1954 France Climber Gap, Hautes-Alpes, France Physician Details Other expeditions
Yveline Gobil F 1964 France Climber La Grave, Hautes-Alpes, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Paul Marc (Paulo) Grobel M 1957 France Leader La Grave, Hautes-Alpes, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Victor Lapras M 1985 France Climber St. Gervais, Seine-St-Denis, France Student Details Other expeditions
Corine Lechien F 1963 France Climber Rouy-le-Grand, Somme, France Hospital nurse Details Other expeditions
Jean-Louis Perrette M 1959 France Climber Saint Victor-de-Cessieu, Isere, France Technician Details Other expeditions
Michelle Germaine Marie Ferrieu Quatrini F 1954 France Climber Sucy-en-Brie, Val-de-Marne, France Tax inspector Details Other expeditions
Hughes Alain Jacques Marie Riverieulx de Varax M 1958 France Climber Versailles, Yvelines, France Manufacturing computer engineer Details Other expeditions
Philippe Wagner M 1952 France Climber Auch, Gers, France Physician Details Other expeditions
Chhotemba (Cho Temba) Sherpa M 1984 Nepal H-A Worker Nurbugaon, Walung, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DUDH08301 AAJ Grobel, Paulo - - 83:316-318 (2009) -
DUDH08301 HJ Grobel, Paulo Kanjiroba 2008 - 65:167-178 (2009) -
DUDH08301 - - http://www.paulo-grobel.com/05_expes/Fiches_PDF/cr_kanjiroba/cr_kanjiroba_2cb.htm - - -
DUDH08301 - - http://www.paulo-grobel.com/05_expes/Fiches_PDF/cr_kanjiroba/cr_kanjiroba_08_asc.htm - - -
DUDH08301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200931602/Asia-Nepal-Kanjiroba-Hima-Dudh-Kundali-6042m-South-Ridge-and-Traverse-Point-5518m - - -
DUDH08301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/65/19/expeditions-and-notes-65/ - - -