Dhaulagiri I | 1991 E Face (to 5750m)

A Japan expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1991 via E Face (to 5750m), led by Yuka Endo. Summit reached on 15th October 1991. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 536
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA191303
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1991
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Face (to 5750m)
Route 2 NE Ridge (to 8000m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Yuka Endo
Sponsor Yeti Dojin Dhaulagiri Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Kali Gandaki->Saking->W from Saking along Ridge
Basecamp Date 1991-09-10
Summit Date 1991-10-15
Summit Time -
Summit Days 35
Total Days 50
Termination Date 1991-10-30
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8000m due to strong winds
High Point (m) 8000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(10/09,4200m),BC2(25/09,4700m),C1(02/10,5750m),C2(06/10,6800m),C3(14/10,7600m),xxx(15/10,8000m)
Route Notes 1st BC to East Dhaulagiri Glacier, southsast of point 6014m on Japanese map C1 at NE Col High point on NE Ridge. From 1st BC climbed icefall but steep and dangerous. Climbed 1 day in icefall, then decided too dangerous with rainfall daily: reached 4500m and returned. Then moved BC to normal site from E Face ascent from there and 3rd Oct looked at face which had no snow; this not good: water falling down face. Went on to east at same altitude as col to see face and decided not to go onto face; climbed NE Ridge. 15th Oct 1st summit bid made by both Endos and a Sherpa reached about 8000m in five days but very strong south wind and Endos down to C3, Ang Phurba to C1. 2nd bid up from BC 22nd Oct 24th, reached C3 but again strong wind and down on 25th and climbing finished. Other 3 members to C1 only. Left BC 30th Oct. Ridge not technically difficult.
Accidents Both Endos slightly frostbitten toes
Achievement -
Agency Himalayan Journeys
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454451
Year 1991
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e face (to 5750m)

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Haruyuki Endo M 1957 Japan Climber Iwaki, Fukushima, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Yuka Endo F 1966 Japan Leader Iwaki, Fukushima, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ryuji Ichihashi M 1947 Japan Climber Chita, Aichi, Japan Tour leader Details Other expeditions
Ueki Kazumitsu M 1967 Japan Climber Takayama, Gifu, Japan Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Kazunori Matsumi M 1952 Japan Climber Takayama, Gifu, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ang Phurba Sherpa M 1961 Nepal H-A Worker Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA191303 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 66:226 (1992) -
DHA191303 IWA - - - :216 (1992) -
DHA191303 IWA - - - :70-71 (1992) -
DHA191303 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199222602/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Post-Monsoon-Northeast-Ridge-Ascents-and-Attempts - - -