Dhaulagiri I | 1987 NE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1987 via NE Ridge, led by Masakatsu Nakamura. Summit reached on 10th May 1987. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 259
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA187101
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1987
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Masakatsu Nakamura
Sponsor Groupe des Moraines Dhaulagiri I Expedition 1987
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Kali Gandaki->Dhampus and French Passes
Basecamp Date 1987-03-30
Summit Date 1987-05-10
Summit Time -
Summit Days 41
Total Days 42
Termination Date 1987-05-11
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7955m due to bad weather
High Point (m) 7955
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 7
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(30/03,4650m),C1(02/04,4860m),ABC(08/04,5700m),C3(18/04,6550m),C4(22/04,7050m),C5(29/04,7500m),xxx(10/05,7955m)
Route Notes BC at normal site C1 above big icefall, which skirted to right C2 above small icefall C3 at left side of NE Ridge C4 on NE Ridge. After C5 established 29th April, down for rest at ABC. 7th May attack started from ABC by Mizukoshi and Sekiya with 2 Sherpas and slept C3 that night; not good weather on 8th May so stayed C3. 9th May to C5 and 10th May up in summit bid and reached 7955m (started 4:00 am and reached high point 10:30 am). Stromg wind and deep soft snow put end to this attack (soft snow very tiring). While ascending avalanche had hit Ang Phurba at 7900m and sent him down mountain: would have plunged 3000m down N Face if after 10m fall large rock had not broken his fall. He was able to resume ascent. 10th May attack party slept C5 that night and to ABC. 10th May Nakamura and Watanabe up to C4 for 2nd summit bid but 11th long period bad weather coming and supplies in ABC low, so Nakamura decided climb finished. Had planned for summit success by and May and now members morale not good enough for another attack plan, food and kerosene supplies not enough for still another long wait for better weather. "Route easy, weather bad."
Accidents Ang Phurba hit by avalanche but not injured; 1 member slight frostbitten finger
Achievement -
Agency Himalayan Journeys
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452828
Year 1987
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Yoshikazu Koyama M 1950 Japan Climber Nagano, Japan Salesman, school equipment Details Other expeditions
Yoshihiro Matsubayashi M 1952 Japan Climber Sakaki, Nagano, Japan Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Haruo Mizukoshi M 1952 Japan Climber Shinano, Nagano, Japan Engineer, building Details Other expeditions
Masakatsu Nakamura M 1944 Japan Leader Shinano, Nagano, Japan Engineer, telephone and telegraph company Details Other expeditions
Shoichi Sekiya M 1950 Japan Climber Obuse, Nagano, Japan Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Ang Phurba Sherpa M 1961 Nepal H-A Worker Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Kunga Sherpa M 1961 Nepal H-A Worker Lamabagar-3, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Kimio Shimiju M 1948 Japan Exp Doctor Ueda, Nagano, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Kazunori Tamai M 1948 Japan Climber Nagano, Japan Designer, building Details Other expeditions
Kazuyoshi Watanabe M 1954 Japan Climber Arai, Niigata, Japan Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Kenichi Yamagishi M 1958 Japan Climber Toyano, Nagano, Japan Office worker, government Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA187101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 62:222-223 (1988) -
DHA187101 IWA - - - :279-280 (1988) -
DHA187101 IWA - - - :74 (1988) -
DHA187101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198822205/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Attempt - - -