Dhaulagiri I | 1954 N Face
A Argentina expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1954 via N Face, led by Francisco Ibanez. Summit reached on 1st June 1954. 13 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2707 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | DHA154101 |
| Peak ID | DHA1 |
| Year | 1954 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | N Face |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Argentina |
| Leaders | Francisco Ibanez |
| Sponsor | - |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Austria, Chile |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | - |
| Summit Date | 1954-06-01 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 0 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 10 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 8000m due to exhaustion |
| High Point (m) | 8000 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 7 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 11 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 1 |
| Total Hired | 14 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Climbed Pampa (1st ascent) |
| Campsites | BC(3650m),C1(4500m),C2(5000m),C3(5600m),C4(6000m),C5(6300m),C6(7010m),C7(7500m),Biv(01/06,8000m),xxx(8000m) |
| Route Notes | - |
| Accidents | Leader died in Ktmdu of illness and frostbite |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2440719 |
| Year | 1954 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | n face |
Members
13 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Francisco Geronimo (Paco) Ibanez | M | 1927 | Argentina | Leader | San Juan, Argentina | Argentine army lieutenant | Details Other expeditions |
| Alfredo Eduardo Magnani | M | - | Argentina | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Gerhard Watzl | M | - | Austria | Climber | Kitzbuehel, Tirol, Austria | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Roberto Busquets | M | - | Chile | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Antonio Ruiz Beramendi | M | - | Argentina | Exp Doctor | - | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Felipe Alejandro Godoy | M | - | Argentina | Climber | Parana, Entre Rios, Argentina | Sergeant, Argentine military | Details Other expeditions |
| Domingo Bertoncelj | M | - | Argentina | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Pasang Dawa Sherpa | M | 1912 | Nepal | Sirdar | Khumjung, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Nima Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Fernando Grajales | M | 1924 | Argentina | Climber | Mendoza, Argentina | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Hugo Benavides | M | - | Argentina | BC Manager | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Miguel Angel Gil | M | - | Argentina | Radio operator | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Jorge Inarra-Iraegui | M | - | Argentina | Cameraman | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
8 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| DHA154101 | AAJ | - | - | - | 29:175-176 (1955) | - |
| DHA154101 | AJ | - | - | - | 60:383-384 (Nov 1955) | - |
| DHA154101 | MW | Kurz, Marcel | The Himalayan Chronicle 1954 | - | 122-124 (1955) | - |
| DHA154101 | MM | Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman | Dhaulagiri | - | 63:30-36 (Sep 1978) | - |
| DHA154101 | - | Magnani, Alfredo E. | Argentinos al Himalaya | Fluxor Editor | - | M77 |
| DHA154101 | - | Bertoncelj, Domingo & Beremendi, Arko | Dhaulagiri: Slovenec & Argentinski | Opremil Milan Volovsek, Buenos Aires | - | B321 |
| DHA154101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12195517503/Asia-Nepal-Himalayas-Dhaulagiri | - | - | - |
| DHA154101 | - | - | https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1955_files/AJ60%201955%20376-386%20Alpine%20Notes.pdf | - | - | - |