Changwathang | 2011 N Glacier & NW Ridge (up), West Ridge (down)

A France expedition to Changwathang in 2011 via N Glacier & NW Ridge (up), West Ridge (down), led by Paulo Grobel. Summit reached on 26th September 2011. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 7348
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHWT11301
Peak ID CHWT
Year 2011
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Glacier & NW Ridge (up), West Ridge (down)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Paulo Grobel
Sponsor -
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 3rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach See route details
Basecamp Date 2011-09-25
Summit Date 2011-09-26
Summit Time -
Summit Days 1
Total Days 3
Termination Date 2011-09-28
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6130
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(25/09,5400m),Smt(26/09)
Route Notes Approach: Simikot, Dharapani, Kermi, Salli Khola, Taluns, Takchhe, Taisolu Khola, Changwatang The base camp is very high and we used no other altitude camp. The climb could be of an alpine grade of PD. The first part in on a glacier (no name) with some crevasses. Up to a col on the NW Ridge. After a short section a little steeper, the ridge become more flat but very exposed. We returned by the same way to the Col du Superieur and instead to descend the glacier we continued on the ridge to another pass lower col northeast of mountain Changwatang at 5772m and then to Changwatang Pass and BC. The next day I made an other attempt to the summit with all the group, but we go only to Col Superieur du Changwatang at 5960m and then we turned back to BC by the same way. For the return trip, we have planned to walk to Jumla by descending the Ning Khola and the Chang La Valley, but the way was impossible with mules and we returned by the same way to Takchhe, Hepka and Simikot.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Yeti Adventure
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2461622
Year 2011
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n glacier & nw ridge (up), west ridge (down)

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jean-Pierre Harles M 1972 France Climber Mexy, Meurthe-et-Moselle, France Cabinet maker Details Other expeditions
Paul Marc (Paulo) Grobel M 1957 France Leader La Grave, Hautes-Alpes, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jean-Pierre Rouquette M 1936 France Climber Rabastens, Tarn, France Engineer (retired) Details Other expeditions
Francois Marty M 1946 France Climber Cahors, Lot, France - Details Other expeditions
Robert Pancotti M 1958 France Climber Tetange, Luxembourg Functionaire Details Other expeditions
Agnes Muleur Pancotti F 1967 France Climber Tetange, Luxembourg Tax advisor Details Other expeditions
Martine Mirigay Marchal F 1953 France Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Jean-Pierre Rene Luc Dessens M 1953 France Climber Lyon, Rhone, France Retired insurance company staff Details Other expeditions
Annick Roger Dessens F 1961 France Climber Lyon, Rhone, France Retired insurance company manager Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHWT11301 AAJ Grobel, Paulo - - 86:306-307 (2012) -
CHWT11301 - - http://www.paulo-grobel.com/05_expes/Fiches_PDF/limi/cr_2011.htm - - -
CHWT11301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12201230600/Changwatang-6130m-East-Spur-and-Northwest-Ridge - - -