Chamar Kang | 2007 N Ridge-N Face

A Japan expedition to Chamar Kang in 2007 via N Ridge-N Face, led by Tamotsu Ohnishi. Summit reached on 21st September 2007. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 5864
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID CHKA07301
Peak ID CHKA
Year 2007
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Ridge-N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Tamotsu Ohnishi
Sponsor Osaka Alpine Club West of Nepal Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st,2nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2007-09-19
Summit Date 2007-09-21
Summit Time 1400
Summit Days 2
Total Days 3
Termination Date 2007-09-22
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6060
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Punchen North Smt (PUNC-073-01)
Campsites BC(19/09,4550m),C1(20/09,5703m),Smt(21-22/09)
Route Notes Ohnishi's travels were divided into two parts. First, in September with the six other Japanese members, he went to Chamar Kang (aka locally as Kangtega), and then they all returned to Kathmandu. Here two members, Inaba and Tsuji, left the team and returned to Japan. In October, Ohnishi and the remaining four went to Punchen Himal. On 29 Aug the full team, including one Sherpa, Chhepa Sherpa, flew to Pokhara and next day took another flight to Jomsom. To acclimatize, they trekked for two weeks (Jomsom, Chharkagaon, Simengaon, Nisrargaon, Sheygaon and back to Chharka). Then to Chamar Kang, the north side of which is known locally as Kangtega and its south side as Chharka. According to the HMG map, it is 6060m high, but Ohnishi's GPS measurement is 6079m high. On 19 September they arrived at BC (4550m) on the Pangjang Khola for their attack on the mountain's north side (Kangtega) via its North Ridge. They pitched a high camp at 5703m on a col at the bottom of the North Ridge, and from it they summited in two parties. On 21 September Irisawa, Koichi Kato, Ohnishi and Chhepa Sherpa went to the top; they left high camp at 6:15 am. They climbed up the North Face, which was covered with snow and ice and was 45-55 degrees steep. They were on the summit at 2:00 pm, back in high camp at 3:30 pm and returned to BC at 7:10 pm. On the 22nd, Inaba, Irisawa (again), Mizutani and Chhepa (again) summited. Akira Kato remained in BC; he did not acclimatize well. The team returned to Kathmandu on 1 October. Tsuji, who had not acclimatizated well, now left Nepal to return to Japan, and Miss Inaba went with him. On the 7th the other members and Chhepa left Kathmandu by bus to Arughat Bazaar on the Buri Gandaki River to reach Punchen Himal. They went north along the Buri Gandaki past Tatopani, Philim and almost to Ngyak; at Ngyakbesi they went northeast following the Shyar Khola past Mu Gompa and on north to their Punchen BC at 4124m just north of Shyar Khola on 18 October. While Akira again stayed at BC, on the 19th the rest of party, Koichi Kato, Irisawa, Mizutani, Ohnishi and Chhepa, moved up to high camp at 4850m at the start of the NE Ridge. On 20 October, they climbed the ridge of rock with occasional covering of ice. At 5700m they joined the NW Face and fixed 250m of rope on the face as they climbed it and from 5900m up a rock and snow NW Ridge to Punchen North, a peak 5962m high. The way from here to the Main Summit (6049m) is a knife-edge ridge. They had left high camp at 5:10 am and reached the North Summit at 11:30 am. They made the route for three hours over this sharp sawtooth ridge, and at 2:30 pm they were at the same altitude as where they had started from the North Summit. The altitude difference between where they were and the Main Summit was only 50 meters, but the linear distance was 500 meters. The route was not very difficult, but they were very tired climbing over loose rock and unconsolidated snow. In their descent they took an easier route from 5700m via the snow-covered North Face to a small lake above high camp. They were back in high camp at 4:30 pm that day. On the 21st they returned to BC and left it on the 22nd for their journey to Kathmandu. During these travel, Ohnishi's fingers became numb from mild frostnip. Sherpa: Chhepa Sherpa, 29/10/83 (12/7/2040), Sotang-6, Solu, no 8000ers
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Cosmo Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2459657
Year 2007
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n ridge-n face

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kaori Inaba F 1973 Japan Climber Minakai Kawachi, Osaka, Japan Hair stylist Details Other expeditions
Toshitsugi Irisawa M 1948 Japan Climber Kiyamoro-gun, Miyazaki, Japan Retired government engineer Details Other expeditions
Akira Kato M 1944 Japan Climber Aso, Kumamoto, Japan Retired telephone company engineer Details Other expeditions
Koichi Kato M 1941 Japan Climber Shikamot, Kumamoto, Japan Retired engineer Details Other expeditions
Koji Mizutani M 1936 Japan Climber Toyonaka, Osaka, Japan Retired engineer Details Other expeditions
Tamotsu Ohnishi M 1942 Japan Leader Osaka Sayama, Osaka, Japan Retired printing company executive Details Other expeditions
Kazuo Tsuji M 1947 Japan Climber Fukushima, Osaka, Japan Retired electric company engineer Details Other expeditions
Chhepa Sherpa M 1983 Nepal H-A Worker Sotang-6, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
CHKA07301 JAN Ohnishi, Tamotsu Revisiting Dolpo and Journey Round Manaslu Massif in 2007 - 9:131-138 (May 2008) -
CHKA07301 AAJ Ohnishi, Tamotsu - - 82:385 (2008) -
CHKA07301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200838501/Asia-Nepal-Upper-Dolpo-Panzang-Region-Chamar-Kang-Probable-First-Ascent - - -
CHKA07301 - - http://jac.or.jp/english/images/vol9/jan-vol9-131-138.pdf - - -