Baruntse | 1981 SE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Baruntse in 1981 via SE Ridge, led by Hideaki Yoshinaga. Summit reached on 24th April 1981. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1844
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID BARU81101
Peak ID BARU
Year 1981
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Hideaki Yoshinaga
Sponsor Himalayan Expedition of Chiba University 1981
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 10th,11th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1981-03-22
Summit Date 1981-04-24
Summit Time 1137
Summit Days 33
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7152
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(22/03,5000m),C1(27/03,5200m),C2(30/03,5750m),C3(07/04,6140m),C4(15/04,6600m),Smt(24-25/04)
Route Notes Toriumi - 30 May 81 All members arrive yesterday except leader who left early for Japan (flew ex-Lukla, rest trekked to KTM). C4 15 April at 6600m, other ministry camp data and summit correct Between C4 and summit: bad weather and route making Route = SE Ridge of 1954 and 2 Japanese expeditions Autumn 1980 and Winter 1980-81 Only 3 members to top because some altitude sickness, some not so strong and weather not good. Oxygen used 30 minutes before going to sleep in C4. No accidents, frostbite or avalanche. Did not climb other peaks. Route very easy BC to C4, but above C4 difficult: very big crevasses and snow very soft (would be harder in post monsoon). Kuroki - 5 Feb 81 Route = South Ridge, same as Autumn 1980 Japanese expedition BC on Barun Glacier at 5000m C1 - 5300m C2 - 5800m C3 - 6200m C4 - 6500m C5 - 6800m (not sure to need C5) 2 members now in KTM, 2 arrive 15 Feb. 3 members arrive 23 Feb 1 end April - BC trek. Others in July-August (research group) Climbing group leave KTM 26 Feb and leave Dharan 1 March Arrive BC about 1 April Summit middle May 1 month trek back to KTM via Khumbu for some. 2 or 3 return to KTM more quickly via air from Tumlingtar. 5 oxygen for medical only 5 Sherpas above BC
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449895
Year 1981
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) se ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Haruo Kuroki M 1957 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Medical student (Chiba University) Details Other expeditions
Akihiko Nakamura M 1958 Japan Climber Chiba-shi, Chiba, Japan Industrial student at Chiba University Details Other expeditions
Yuichi Osa M 1949 Japan Exp Doctor Chiba-shi, Chiba, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Fumitaka Sakurai M 1958 Japan Climber Chiba-shi, Chiba, Japan Photographic student at Chiba University Details Other expeditions
Nobukazu Toriumi M 1948 Japan Deputy Leader Yamakita, Kanagawa, Japan Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Saho Umeda F 1957 Japan Climber Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Nurse Details Other expeditions
Hideki Yoshinaga M 1941 Japan Leader Chiba-shi, Chiba, Japan Attorney Details Other expeditions
Ang Phurba Sherpa M 1961 Nepal Sirdar Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ang Kami Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
BARU81101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 56:210 (1982) -
BARU81101 MM - - - 80:13 (Jul 1981) -
BARU81101 IWA - - - 88:185 (1982) -
BARU81101 IWA - - - 88:37 (1982) -
BARU81101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198221001/Asia-Nepal-Baruntse - - -