Arniko Chuli | 2009 SW Ridge

A France expedition to Arniko Chuli in 2009 via SW Ridge, led by Paulo Grobel. Summit reached on 29th September 2009. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 6586
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ARNK09301
Peak ID ARNK
Year 2009
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Paulo Grobel
Sponsor Paulo Arniko Chuli Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Jomsom->Chharka Bhot->Chharka Tulsi Khola->Nakhkhem Khola->BC
Basecamp Date 2009-09-29
Summit Date 2009-09-29
Summit Time -
Summit Days 0
Total Days 3
Termination Date 2009-10-02
Termination Reason 12
Termination Notes Abandoned at 5665m due to Arniko's SW Ridge 'not interesting'
High Point (m) 5665
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC1(29/09,5500m),BC2(30/09,5450m),xxx(29/09,5665m)
Route Notes BC1 south of mountain BC2 southeast of mountain High point at Ghanagor Pass. Grobel and his team did not know the best approach route to the mountain and went by much longer way: from Jomsom, they trekked northwest to Chharka Bhot, then east and northeast via the Chharka Tulsi Khola to the Nakhkhem Khola to BC1 at 5500m north of the Nakhkhem Khola and south of Arniko Chuli. They arrived at BC1 on 29 September, and the same day Grobel went up onto Chanagor Pass on Arniko Chuli's SW Ridge. Here he could see that this summit ridge was not difficult but was "not interesting," so he returned to base and the attempt on the mountain [was abandoned]. On 30 September the team moved to their BC2 at 5450m east of BC1 and north of their next objective, the unnamed point 6026m which Grobel named Anige Chuli, which he said was the original name of Arniko Chuli. That day Bonhomme, Chavy, Flaven and Grobel, plus Gyalzen Sherpa, climbed its west snow slope. On 1 October the same four Frenchmen and Sherpa went north from BC2 and scaled the western snow slope of the unnamed point 6060m, on which Grobel bestowed to name Typhoon Peak in honor of the Japanese climber-explorer Tamotsu Ohnishi, who had been in this area in the summer of 2002. The team's climbing phase was not ended. On 2 October they left BC2 and went east via the Kekyap La and a path used by locals north to Lho Manthang village. This Grobel thinks is the best approach to Arniko Chuli. They arrived at Lho Manthang on 4 October. They visited the area and made their way south via the Kali Gandaki River to Jomsom, and from there returned by road to Kathmandu in the very early morning of 14 October. Montus-Auge did no climbing because he was it fit enough and was tired. Sherpa: Gyalzen Sherpa, 26 yrs old, Walung, Makalu-9, no 8000ers
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Thamserku Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2460218
Year 2009
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Frank Bohomme M 1971 France Climber Stuttgart, Baden-Wuerttemberg, Germany Engineer Details Other expeditions
Jocelyn Chavy M 1976 France Climber Voreppe, Isere, France Journalist Details Other expeditions
Denis Flaven M 1970 France Climber St. Pierre de l'Eglise, Isere, France Software engineer Details Other expeditions
Paul Marc (Paulo) Grobel M 1957 France Leader La Grave, Hautes-Alpes, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Rodolphe Montus-Auge M 1967 France Climber Evisa, Corsica, France Forest guard Details Other expeditions
Gyalzen Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Walung, Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ARNK09301 AAJ Grobel, Paulo - - 84:302-303 (2010) -
ARNK09301 - - http://www.paulo-grobel.com/05_expes/Fiches_PDF/araniko_2009/araniko_2.htm - - -
ARNK09301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12201030202/Anige-Chuli-6025m-Typhoon-Peak-6066m - - -