Annapurna I | 1998 S Face

A USA expedition to Annapurna I in 1998 via S Face, led by Thomas McMillan. Summit reached on 17th October 1998. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 3150
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN198301
Peak ID ANN1
Year 1998
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Thomas McMillan
Sponsor 1998 Annapurna South Face Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1998-09-06
Summit Date 1998-10-17
Summit Time -
Summit Days 41
Total Days 51
Termination Date 1998-10-27
Termination Reason 7
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6650m due to dangerous serac fall, poor leadership, sickness
High Point (m) 6650
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 1400
Total Members 11
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 9
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(06/09,4250m),C1.ABC(15/09,4900m),C2(20/09,5500m),C3(24/09,6000m),xxx(17/10,6650m)
Route Notes BC at South Annapurna Glacier C1 ABC at top of rognan (rock island) C2 on South Face C3 on South Face. C4 site reached 17 Oct but camp not established. Big snowstorm and serac avalanche plus illness slowed progress after C3 occupied. Serac avalanches destroyed C2 12 Oct, but that was about the only day it was occupied. McMillan wanted to go for top and others with him but he got sick in C3. "Between people leaving and people getting sick," climb ground to halt especially when C2 was never reestablished. McMillan was in C1 coming down to BC on 27th and then used BC for climbing trekking peaks with one trekker. He took time to make decisions and then did not stick with them; was "out of touch with reality" about an 8000er; hadn't been above about 20,000 ft before and didn't understand the process of expedition climbing. So expedition fell apart. After 19th weather was beautiful. About 10 Oct general felling was there would be no success, but some members wanted to get to their personal high points. McMillan didn't care about clearing camps, so others did it. McMillan went to C3 on 25 Oct to try a solo bid for the top, but when he reached C3 had seconds thoughts about being alone on the mountain and went down. Slept in a gully above C2 at about 5600m that night and returned to BC on 27th.
Accidents Smith's foot broken by falling rock 18th Oct; Martin and McMillan altitude sickness
Achievement -
Agency Peak Promotion
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2456117
Year 1998
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Craig A. Clarence M 1968 USA Climber Mission Viejo, California Accountant Details Other expeditions
Jennifer S. Banning F 1967 USA BC Manager Springfield, Oregon Marketing manager Details Other expeditions
Keith W. Banning M 1971 USA Climber Springfield, Oregon Computer consultant Details Other expeditions
West Coghlan M 1954 USA Climber San Francisco, California Management consultant Details Other expeditions
Charlotte Conant Fox F 1957 USA Climber Aspen, Colorado Ski patroller & investor Details Other expeditions
Timothy Todd (Tim) Madsen M 1962 USA Climber Aspen, Colorado Construction worker Details Other expeditions
Reese S. Martin M 1955 USA Climber Ventura, California Environmental manager Details Other expeditions
Thomas Ian (Tom) McMillan M 1956 USA Leader San Rafael, California Consulting chemical engineer Details Other expeditions
Stephen J. Parker M 1961 USA Exp Doctor Portland, Oregon Physician Details Other expeditions
Gordon Roger Smith M 1959 USA Climber Seattle, Washington Ecological forester Details Other expeditions
Allan S. Treadwell M 1963 USA Climber Sacramento, California Physician Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN198301 HIGH - - - 198:47 (May 1999) -