Annapurna I | 1998 S Face
A USA expedition to Annapurna I in 1998 via S Face, led by Thomas McMillan. Summit reached on 17th October 1998. 11 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 3150 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | ANN198301 |
| Peak ID | ANN1 |
| Year | 1998 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Face |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | USA |
| Leaders | Thomas McMillan |
| Sponsor | 1998 Annapurna South Face Expedition |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1998-09-06 |
| Summit Date | 1998-10-17 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 41 |
| Total Days | 51 |
| Termination Date | 1998-10-27 |
| Termination Reason | 7 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 6650m due to dangerous serac fall, poor leadership, sickness |
| High Point (m) | 6650 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 3 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 1400 |
| Total Members | 11 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 9 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(06/09,4250m),C1.ABC(15/09,4900m),C2(20/09,5500m),C3(24/09,6000m),xxx(17/10,6650m) |
| Route Notes | BC at South Annapurna Glacier C1 ABC at top of rognan (rock island) C2 on South Face C3 on South Face. C4 site reached 17 Oct but camp not established. Big snowstorm and serac avalanche plus illness slowed progress after C3 occupied. Serac avalanches destroyed C2 12 Oct, but that was about the only day it was occupied. McMillan wanted to go for top and others with him but he got sick in C3. "Between people leaving and people getting sick," climb ground to halt especially when C2 was never reestablished. McMillan was in C1 coming down to BC on 27th and then used BC for climbing trekking peaks with one trekker. He took time to make decisions and then did not stick with them; was "out of touch with reality" about an 8000er; hadn't been above about 20,000 ft before and didn't understand the process of expedition climbing. So expedition fell apart. After 19th weather was beautiful. About 10 Oct general felling was there would be no success, but some members wanted to get to their personal high points. McMillan didn't care about clearing camps, so others did it. McMillan went to C3 on 25 Oct to try a solo bid for the top, but when he reached C3 had seconds thoughts about being alone on the mountain and went down. Slept in a gully above C2 at about 5600m that night and returned to BC on 27th. |
| Accidents | Smith's foot broken by falling rock 18th Oct; Martin and McMillan altitude sickness |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Peak Promotion |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2456117 |
| Year | 1998 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | s face |
Members
11 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Craig A. Clarence | M | 1968 | USA | Climber | Mission Viejo, California | Accountant | Details Other expeditions |
| Jennifer S. Banning | F | 1967 | USA | BC Manager | Springfield, Oregon | Marketing manager | Details Other expeditions |
| Keith W. Banning | M | 1971 | USA | Climber | Springfield, Oregon | Computer consultant | Details Other expeditions |
| West Coghlan | M | 1954 | USA | Climber | San Francisco, California | Management consultant | Details Other expeditions |
| Charlotte Conant Fox | F | 1957 | USA | Climber | Aspen, Colorado | Ski patroller & investor | Details Other expeditions |
| Timothy Todd (Tim) Madsen | M | 1962 | USA | Climber | Aspen, Colorado | Construction worker | Details Other expeditions |
| Reese S. Martin | M | 1955 | USA | Climber | Ventura, California | Environmental manager | Details Other expeditions |
| Thomas Ian (Tom) McMillan | M | 1956 | USA | Leader | San Rafael, California | Consulting chemical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Stephen J. Parker | M | 1961 | USA | Exp Doctor | Portland, Oregon | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Gordon Roger Smith | M | 1959 | USA | Climber | Seattle, Washington | Ecological forester | Details Other expeditions |
| Allan S. Treadwell | M | 1963 | USA | Climber | Sacramento, California | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
References
1 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ANN198301 | HIGH | - | - | - | 198:47 (May 1999) | - |