Annapurna I | 1998 N Face (E of Dutch Rib)

A S Korea expedition to Annapurna I in 1998 via N Face (E of Dutch Rib), led by Go In-Gyung. Summit reached on 3rd May 1998. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2557
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN198102
Peak ID ANN1
Year 1998
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face (E of Dutch Rib)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality S Korea
Leaders Go In-Gyung
Sponsor 1998 Korean Annapurna I Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 35th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1998-04-13
Summit Date 1998-05-03
Summit Time 1316
Summit Days 20
Total Days 22
Termination Date 1998-05-05
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8091
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 1600
Total Members 4
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 4
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(13/04,4300m),ABC(15/04,5100m),C1(18/04,5700m),C2(22/04,6800m),C3(02/05,7500m),Smt(03/05)
Route Notes C1 at North Face C2 east of Dutch Rib C3 above area of many crevasses. 25th April at 7750m big accident with Um, but he saved lives by holding fixed rope and sacrificed own summit chance. 3 days to get Um down to ABC for his helicopter evacuation. 30 April now from BC to try another summit bid. C3 left 3 May 4:15 am by Han, 1 Sherpa and 3 Tamangs and reached top 1:16 pm by Han and Dawa Tamang: others on top 1:45 to 2:00 pm. Slept in C3 that night, arriving there about 5:30-6:00 pm. 4 May 6:00 pm back in BC. Chose eastern route that is long but safest: Dutch Rib was blue ice and French and Spanish routes hit by many avalanches, but weather generally was good. 25 April Um and 4 Sherpas and Han going to make C3 at 7800m when 50m below site 2 Sherpas fell: sirdar attached to fixed rope and looking for way to cross crevasse said impossible and came down from crevasse and took 2 steps back and slipped, pulled 2nd Sherpa down and Um's leg entwined in rope: Sherpas down 20m and okay but Um's right leg injured and he fell down 10-15m; his leg and ankle fractured (2 breaks). Han Ok - all night 3:40-11:30 pm Um was brought to reach C2: helicopter on 27th brought Um from 4500m plateau and brought to KTM and cared for at B & B Hospital. Were on route east of Dutch and French routes; more difficult technically but safer: Dutch route had dangerous seracs area and French route many snow and ice avalanches. Expedition now in BC but will make another bid for summit.
Accidents Um's right leg broken
Achievement 1st person to scale Annapurna twice
Agency Windhorse Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2455950
Year 1998
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face (e of dutch rib)

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
In-Gyung Go M 1944 S Korea Leader Seoul, S Korea Language institute chairman Details Other expeditions
Wang-Yong Han M 1966 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Geo-Chong Lee M 1952 S Korea Climber Kumchungu, Seoul, S Korea Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Hong-Gil Um M 1960 S Korea Climber Uijeongbu, Gyeonggi, S Korea Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Ang Dawa (Dawa) Tamang M 1972 Nepal H-A Worker Lapcha, Gorakhani, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Phurba Tamang M - Nepal H-A Worker Kerung, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Arjun Tamang M 1964 Nepal H-A Worker Gorakhani, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Kami Dorchi (Kami Dorje) Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Kerung, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN198102 HIGH - - - 193:28 (Dec 1998) -