Annapurna I | 1996 NE Buttress (to 6100m)

A S Korea expedition to Annapurna I in 1996 via NE Buttress (to 6100m), led by Um Hong-Gil. Summit reached on 17th December 1996. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2095
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN196401
Peak ID ANN1
Year 1996
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Buttress (to 6100m)
Route 2 N Face (Dutch Rib) (to 6850m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality S Korea
Leaders Um Hong-Gil
Sponsor Korean Winter Annapurna I Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->BC by helicopter
Basecamp Date 1996-11-13
Summit Date 1996-12-17
Summit Time -
Summit Days 34
Total Days 38
Termination Date 1996-12-21
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned on 18 Dec due to avalanching and dangerous serac
High Point (m) 6850
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 1100
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(13/11,4300m),ABC(06/12,5000m),C1(08/12,5400m),C2(17/12,6850m),xxx(17/12,6850m)
Route Notes BC at normal site C1 at normal site C2 at top of Dutch Rib at normal C3 site High point at C2. Carried all loads to ABC over 4 days and no one stayed at BC except liaison officer and cook. In climbs found too many crevasses at start of normal route; tried to climb NE Buttress and gained 200m on steep ice face on 9 Dec to 6100m and then big ice-rock-snow avalanche hit (one snow hit Ngati) so abandoned this line (Kim In-Hyem, Um, Ngati, Kami and Sarki Sherpa reached this point). So tried N Face (Dutch Rib) (many avalanches coming down left and right side and sometimes hit climbers before Rib); reached C2 (normal C3) but not above it because many avalanches some of which came from big serac just above C2: serac was "in very bad condition." Rib also bad condition with rock and ice mixed with no snow; now abandoned climb.
Accidents Ngati's leg injured by avalanche
Achievement -
Agency Windhorse Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2455446
Year 1996
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne buttress (to 6100m)

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
In-Hyeon Kim M 1970 S Korea Climber Gwangwon, Gangwon, S Korea Mathematics student Details Other expeditions
Young-Gug Kim M 1968 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Mathematics student Details Other expeditions
Hong-Gil Um M 1960 S Korea Leader Seoul, S Korea Advertising director Details Other expeditions
Ngati Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Phortse, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Kami Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Sarki Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN196401 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 72:303-304 (1998) -
ANN196401 HIGH - - - 177:24 (Aug 1997) -
ANN196401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199830303/Asia-Nepal-Various-Winter-Ascents - - -