Annapurna I | 1996 S Face (Bonington rte)

A Ukraine expedition to Annapurna I in 1996 via S Face (Bonington rte), led by Mstislav Gorbenko. Summit reached on 20th October 1996. 12 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1933
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN196301
Peak ID ANN1
Year 1996
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face (Bonington rte)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Ukraine
Leaders Mstislav Gorbenko
Sponsor Ukrainian Annapurna Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 34
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1996-09-06
Summit Date 1996-10-20
Summit Time 1610
Summit Days 44
Total Days 54
Termination Date 1996-10-30
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8091
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 7
Fixed Rope (m) 3500
Total Members 12
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(06/09,4300m),ABC(11/09,4800m),C1(15/09,5300m),C2(17/09,6100m),C3(23/09,6500m),C4(02/10,6800m),C5(15/10,7000m),C6(17/10,7300m),C7(19/10,7700m),Smt(20/10)
Route Notes ABC on moraine C1 on glacier C2 on ridge of South Face C3 on South Face C4 on South Face C5 on South Face C6 on South Face C7 in snow cave on South Face. 20 Oct 3 members from C7 at 9:00 am, on top 4:10 pm and returned to C7 at 6:00 pm. Very bad weather; very windy and snow falling. 2 other members had started up from C7 but turned back because of extreme cold. On 22nd 4 more members [Leontiev, Gorbenko, Koval and Kopytko] tried for top but not above C7 and down and climb finished. "Super danger" from snow avalanche mushrooms; but not very difficult technically says Kovalev. One snowstorm in Oct covered all tents, ropes, etc. and took a week to uncover them and reassemble them. Took 6 days for 2nd summit party to descnd to BC in greater snowstorm; many ropes destroyed in storm; had to carry tent down because couldn't find camps. Took 6 days for 2nd summit party to descend to BC in greather snowstorm: many ropes destroyed in storm; had to carry tent down because couldn't find camps.
Accidents Kovalev slightly frostbite in toes; Gorbenko chest infection on walkout
Achievement -
Agency Windhorse Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2455388
Year 1996
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face (bonington rte)

Members

12 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Vladimir Alperin M 1948 Ukraine Climber Odessa, Ukraine Engineer Details Other expeditions
Sergei Igorevich Bershov M 1947 Ukraine Climber Kharkov, Ukraine Sports instructor Details Other expeditions
Igor Chaplynsky M 1959 Ukraine Climber Kiev, Ukraine Manager of engineering company Details Other expeditions
Vladimir (Volodymyr) Gorbach M 1954 Ukraine Climber Kiev, Ukraine Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Mstislav Gorbenko M 1947 Ukraine Leader Odessa, Ukraine Alpinist & director of alpine club Details Other expeditions
Vasili (Vazyl) Kopytko M 1964 Ukraine Exp Doctor Odessa, Ukraine Physician Details Other expeditions
Roman Koval M 1968 Ukraine Climber Odessa, Ukraine Psychotherapist Details Other expeditions
Sergei Kovalev M 1966 Ukraine Climber Donetsk, Ukraine Engineer Details Other expeditions
Gennadi Lebedev M 1953 Ukraine Climber Krivoy Rog, Ukraine Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Vadim Leontiev M 1951 Ukraine Climber Odessa, Ukraine Sports activities manager Details Other expeditions
Pavel Slavinsky M 1940 Ukraine Deputy Leader Kiev, Ukraine Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Igor Svergun M 1966 Ukraine Climber Kharkov, Ukraine Sportsman Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN196301 AAJ Gorbenko, Mstislav - - 71:285-287 (1997) -
ANN196301 HIGH - - - 175:90 (Jun 1997) -
ANN196301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199728504/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-I-South-Face-Attempt-and-Ascent - - -