Annapurna I | 1996 S Face (Bonington rte)
A Ukraine expedition to Annapurna I in 1996 via S Face (Bonington rte), led by Mstislav Gorbenko. Summit reached on 20th October 1996. 12 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1933 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | ANN196301 |
| Peak ID | ANN1 |
| Year | 1996 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Face (Bonington rte) |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Ukraine |
| Leaders | Mstislav Gorbenko |
| Sponsor | Ukrainian Annapurna Expedition |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 34 |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1996-09-06 |
| Summit Date | 1996-10-20 |
| Summit Time | 1610 |
| Summit Days | 44 |
| Total Days | 54 |
| Termination Date | 1996-10-30 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8091 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 7 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 3500 |
| Total Members | 12 |
| Summit Members | 3 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(06/09,4300m),ABC(11/09,4800m),C1(15/09,5300m),C2(17/09,6100m),C3(23/09,6500m),C4(02/10,6800m),C5(15/10,7000m),C6(17/10,7300m),C7(19/10,7700m),Smt(20/10) |
| Route Notes | ABC on moraine C1 on glacier C2 on ridge of South Face C3 on South Face C4 on South Face C5 on South Face C6 on South Face C7 in snow cave on South Face. 20 Oct 3 members from C7 at 9:00 am, on top 4:10 pm and returned to C7 at 6:00 pm. Very bad weather; very windy and snow falling. 2 other members had started up from C7 but turned back because of extreme cold. On 22nd 4 more members [Leontiev, Gorbenko, Koval and Kopytko] tried for top but not above C7 and down and climb finished. "Super danger" from snow avalanche mushrooms; but not very difficult technically says Kovalev. One snowstorm in Oct covered all tents, ropes, etc. and took a week to uncover them and reassemble them. Took 6 days for 2nd summit party to descnd to BC in greater snowstorm; many ropes destroyed in storm; had to carry tent down because couldn't find camps. Took 6 days for 2nd summit party to descend to BC in greather snowstorm: many ropes destroyed in storm; had to carry tent down because couldn't find camps. |
| Accidents | Kovalev slightly frostbite in toes; Gorbenko chest infection on walkout |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Windhorse Trekking |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | False |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2455388 |
| Year | 1996 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | s face (bonington rte) |
Members
12 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Vladimir Alperin | M | 1948 | Ukraine | Climber | Odessa, Ukraine | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Sergei Igorevich Bershov | M | 1947 | Ukraine | Climber | Kharkov, Ukraine | Sports instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Igor Chaplynsky | M | 1959 | Ukraine | Climber | Kiev, Ukraine | Manager of engineering company | Details Other expeditions |
| Vladimir (Volodymyr) Gorbach | M | 1954 | Ukraine | Climber | Kiev, Ukraine | Alpine instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Mstislav Gorbenko | M | 1947 | Ukraine | Leader | Odessa, Ukraine | Alpinist & director of alpine club | Details Other expeditions |
| Vasili (Vazyl) Kopytko | M | 1964 | Ukraine | Exp Doctor | Odessa, Ukraine | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Roman Koval | M | 1968 | Ukraine | Climber | Odessa, Ukraine | Psychotherapist | Details Other expeditions |
| Sergei Kovalev | M | 1966 | Ukraine | Climber | Donetsk, Ukraine | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Gennadi Lebedev | M | 1953 | Ukraine | Climber | Krivoy Rog, Ukraine | Mechanical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Vadim Leontiev | M | 1951 | Ukraine | Climber | Odessa, Ukraine | Sports activities manager | Details Other expeditions |
| Pavel Slavinsky | M | 1940 | Ukraine | Deputy Leader | Kiev, Ukraine | Alpine instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Igor Svergun | M | 1966 | Ukraine | Climber | Kharkov, Ukraine | Sportsman | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ANN196301 | AAJ | Gorbenko, Mstislav | - | - | 71:285-287 (1997) | - |
| ANN196301 | HIGH | - | - | - | 175:90 (Jun 1997) | - |
| ANN196301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199728504/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-I-South-Face-Attempt-and-Ascent | - | - | - |