Annapurna I | 1991 S Face (Japanese rte) (to 7350m)

A USSR expedition to Annapurna I in 1991 via S Face (Japanese rte) (to 7350m), led by Vasili Senatorov. Summit reached on 26th October 1991. 12 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 552
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN191307
Peak ID ANN1
Year 1991
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face (Japanese rte) (to 7350m)
Route 2 S Face (Bonington rte)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USSR
Leaders Vasili Senatorov
Sponsor First Moscow Expedition to Himalaya - to Annapurna I
Success 1 False
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 28th
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1991-09-18
Summit Date 1991-10-26
Summit Time 1400
Summit Days 38
Total Days 41
Termination Date 1991-10-29
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8091
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 12
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent True
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(18/09,4150m),Smt(26/10)
Route Notes BC at 1 km south of Polish BCs (near last lodges). Had no stationary camps: prepared places for tents, put them up for 2-3 nights and then moved them as he fixed good sections of rope and could move higher; used Polish ABC as their ABC. First tried Japanese route but problems: On Sept 30, Egorov and Karpenko hit by rockfall. Karpenko's leg broken and Egorov's back injured. Rescue/evacuation took 3 days. Shinov on 16th Oct at 7100m on 14th day on wall got altitude sickness and took another 3 days evacuation because as ropes fixed high up, lower ropes removed; after this evacuation 2 members had bad throats. So only 4 strong climbers left but really exhausted as down to BC for rest after 2 weeks on wall but wanted to continue on Japanese route; however decided to climb easier route and Poles agreed OK to use their route (Bonington). On 22 Oct these 4 members to ABC at 5000m, 23rd in own tent at 6150m at Poles C1, 24th to 6800m at Polish C2 with own tent. 25th 1:00 am all 4 up to 7300m, without tent (to use C3 Polish tent) and reached 7300m 6:00 am now very cold and stayed in tent. 26th 9:00 am strong wind and still very cold but started up and 2 members on top at 2:00 pm and other 2 about 15 mins later; left summit 3:30 pm (video films raising Russian and Nepalese flags) and descended to Polish C3 at 7:30 pm, moving slowly to kick legs often to increase circulation of blood. 27th down from C3 at 10:00 am and at 6100m late afternoon, very tired. 28th evening arrived BC. Senatorov left BC 27th evening. Actually was no BC because on 21st porters had cleared it. Used American Annapurna South BC. 4 summiters left BC 29th with Elagin and Ianotchkine.
Accidents Egorov and Karpenko seriously injured by falling stone; Shinov serious altitude sickness
Achievement -
Agency Himalaya Expeditions
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453562
Year 1991
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s face (japanese rte) (to 7350m)

Members

12 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Marina Klochoko F 1958 USSR Radio Operator Moscow, USSR Translator Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Bachkirov M 1952 USSR Climber Korolev (Kaliningrad), USSR Computer specialist Details Other expeditions
Dmitri Egorov M 1964 USSR Climber Moscow, USSR Post graduate student in science Details Other expeditions
Vasili Elagin M 1953 USSR Deputy Leader Moscow, USSR Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Sergei Isaev M 1957 USSR Climber Moscow, USSR Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Valentin Andreevich Ivanov M 1941 USSR Chief Coach Moscow, USSR Engineer Details Other expeditions
Valeri Karpenko M 1953 USSR Exp Doctor Petropavlovsk, Kamachatka, Russia, USSR Physician Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Obichod M 1955 USSR Climber Moscow, USSR Sports teacher Details Other expeditions
Nikolai Petrov M 1953 USSR Climber Podolsk, Russia, USSR Mathematician & computer specialist Details Other expeditions
Vasili Senatorov M 1955 USSR Leader Moscow, USSR Journalist Details Other expeditions
Alexander Shinov M 1958 USSR Climber Moscow, USSR Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Ianotchkine M 1951 USSR Climber Moscow, USSR Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN191307 AAJ Senatorov, Vassili - - 66:221-222 (1992) -
ANN191307 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199222102/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-South-Face - - -