Annapurna I | 1990 N Face

A Yugoslavia expedition to Annapurna I in 1990 via N Face, led by Darko Berljak. Summit reached on 4th December 1990. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 736
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN190402
Peak ID ANN1
Year 1990
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Yugoslavia
Leaders Darko Berljak
Sponsor Zagreb Mountaineering Expedition - Annapurna Winter 1990
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries USA
Approach Lete
Basecamp Date 1990-11-25
Summit Date 1990-12-04
Summit Time -
Summit Days 9
Total Days 14
Termination Date 1990-12-09
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6400m due to route too dangerous without fixed rope
High Point (m) 6400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 13
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(25/11,4350m),ABC(03/12,5750m),xxx(04/12,6400m)
Route Notes BC at normal North Face site, where sun reached ABC at North Face High point at top of Dutch Rib. From BC to W Face climbed 600m onto a ridge and descended to beginning of W Face on 1 Dec. 2nd Dec 6 members made ABC on N Face at 5750m but near this camp found pegs and boots of an earlier disaster and also falling seracs. Sveticic 2nd Dec to 5200m at bottom of W Face to watch what happens there (where nothing happened - no falling ice or rock and sun on face in afternoon). Planned a camp at 6400m above Dutch Rib on N Face; 4th Dec 2 members went to fix rope at last part of rib and serac field, but big avalanches came down both sides of rib and huge serac fell destroying top section of rib; 100m of ice is hanging above rib. Members ran down mountain (not hurt only afraid - "something like earthquake") and returned to BC. French route had big seracs fall near ABC at 5750m. All now back to BC: not possible to make safe descent via N Face and sent message to Lete for porters to evacuate team and left 9th Dec; that night 40cm new snow fell and had to give boots, etc. to porters and members and Sherpas went ahead to shovel away snow. W Face solo ascent without fixed ropes and in middle section if this face not possible to descend without ropes over this 80 degrees rock which is very smooth and no place to put pitons. BC atmosphere not good with all the plaques to dead climbers. Approach march took 3 days from Lete through difficult steep terrain and had to fix rope on W Face. All US members reached 5000m, all others at least 5100-5400m on N Face carrying loads.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency Everest Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453235
Year 1990
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Mario Bago M 1953 Yugoslavia Climber Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Clerk Details Other expeditions
Darko Berljak M 1950 Yugoslavia Leader Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Economist Details Other expeditions
Davor Butkovic M 1954 Yugoslavia Climber Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Professor of art Details Other expeditions
Marjan Freser M 1953 Yugoslavia Climber Slovenska Bistrica, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Mechanical technician Details Other expeditions
Ninoslav Kurtalj M 1962 Yugoslavia Climber Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Franc (Aco) Pepevnik M 1959 Yugoslavia Climber Sentjur, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Salesman Details Other expeditions
Milan Romih M 1960 Yugoslavia Climber Slovenska Bistrica, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Farmer Details Other expeditions
Branko Separovic M 1947 Yugoslavia Climber Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Miroslav (Slavko) Sveticic M 1958 Yugoslavia Climber Cerkno, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Danilo (Dani) Tic M 1961 Yugoslavia Climber Slovenska Bistrica, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Photographer Details Other expeditions
Damjan Vidmar M 1961 Yugoslavia Climber Skofja Loka, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Graphics in printing house Details Other expeditions
Alenka Jamnik F 1964 Yugoslavia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Geologist Details Other expeditions
Alfred Rendall M 1944 USA Exp Doctor Old Brookville, New York Surgeon Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN190402 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 65:240 (1991) -
ANN190402 MM - - - 138:8 (Mar 1991) -
ANN190402 - Berljak, Darko Kljucevi Neba By author, Zagreb, Croatia - -
ANN190402 - Berljak, Darko Dodiri Neba Hrvatski Planinarski Savez, Zagreb - -
ANN190402 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199124002/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-Autumn-Attempt - - -