Annapurna I | 1988 S Face

A Bulgaria expedition to Annapurna I in 1988 via S Face, led by Metodi Stefanov Savov. Summit reached on 14th December 1988. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 98
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN188401
Peak ID ANN1
Year 1988
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Bulgaria
Leaders Metodi Stefanov Savov
Sponsor Annapurna I Bulgarian Winter Expedition 1988
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1988-11-07
Summit Date 1988-12-14
Summit Time -
Summit Days 37
Total Days 63
Termination Date 1989-01-09
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6800m due to deep snow
High Point (m) 6800
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(07/11,4150m),ABC(02/12,5100m),C1(06/12,5600m),C2(12/12,6600m),xxx(14/12,6800m)
Route Notes High point on South Face. Did new route from C1 to C2 with 1200m fixed rope on very hard rock in couloir (up which Sherpas refused to go even after rope fixed). Very difficult but shorter and more stable than older route, more direct. At C2 joined Polish route. In Nov made route and carried loads to ABC; did not climb any trekking peaks. In mid-Dec more than 2m fresh snow from 15th Dec and on 17th Dec all down to BC because already 1m snow; 23-25th Dec more heavy snowfall with 2-1/2m snow lying at BC now. 29th Dec up to ABC, where found more than 1-1/2m snow, restablished camp with new tents. 31 Dec remade route to C1, where over 4m snow and only 1 tent found but other tent had all supplies. 3rd Jan snowfall again and by 6th Jan over 1-1/2m new snow between ABC and C1. 7th Jan all down to BC. Between C1 and C2 couloir now mostly iced and impossible to climb so expedition finished. Almost constant powder snow avalanches but did no harm. Many problems with Sherpas and with getting porters to evacuate BC.
Accidents Ang Kami fell and injured leg but OK after 1 week; Tomov kidney attack in Nov and went home
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452513
Year 1988
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Arso Zlatanov Arsov M 1951 Bulgaria Climber Sofia, Bulgaria Ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Ljubomir Gueorguiv Iliev M 1958 Bulgaria Climber Sofia, Bulgaria Engineer Details Other expeditions
Stayko Assenov Kulaksazov M 1949 Bulgaria Exp Doctor Sofia, Bulgaria Physician (surgeon) Details Other expeditions
Dimitre Natchev M 1959 Bulgaria Climber Sofia, Bulgaria Sports instructor Details Other expeditions
Metodi Stefanov Savov M 1947 Bulgaria Leader Sofia, Bulgaria Journalist Details Other expeditions
Dinio Gueorguiev Tomov M 1959 Bulgaria Climber Sofia, Bulgaria History student Details Other expeditions
Ivan Georgiev Valtchev M 1947 Bulgaria Climber Sofia, Bulgaria Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Kostas Dimitrios Kanidis M 1957 Bulgaria Climber Stara Zagora, Bulgaria Student Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN188401 AAJ Nyka , Jozef - - 64:247 (1990) -
ANN188401 MM - - - 127:12 (May 1989) -
ANN188401 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 63:221 (1989) -
ANN188401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198922101/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-Attempt - - -
ANN188401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199024703/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-Bulgarian-Attempt-on-South-Face - - -