Annapurna I | 1988 S Face

A France expedition to Annapurna I in 1988 via S Face, led by Benoit Chamoux. Summit reached on 10th May 1988. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 87
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN188101
Peak ID ANN1
Year 1988
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Benoit Chamoux
Sponsor L'Esprit d'Equipe (Team Spirit)
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 19th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Czechoslovakia, Italy, USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1988-04-10
Summit Date 1988-05-10
Summit Time 0930
Summit Days 30
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8091
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 1400
Total Members 7
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(10/04,4100m),C1(12/04,4800m),C2(14/04,6100m),C3(27/04,6850m),C4(08/05,7300m),Smt(10/05)
Route Notes BC nearly as same as Japanese on moraine on great side of South Annapurna Glacier. Route was basically as same as Japanese in winter 1987 and then variation of British 1970 spring route. Weather was not good with snowfall everyday. Quite difficult wall between C2 and C4 with some steep, even vertical pitches of bad rock, which British climbed. Below this was big serac above couloir above C2 under which had to climb; had to fix rope quite high because of avalanche danger; fixed about 1400m total. Dorotei, Rakoncaj and Boyer established C4 on 8th May and 3 others down to C3; Boyer to C3 next day. On 10th May, 3 French and Boyer started earlier and climbed through C4. Chamoux, Campredon and Boyer were on top within one hour of Dorotei and Rakoncaj (10-11 am), but Detry had been not well day before and turned back 100m from top when others coming down; he had 2 more hours to reach top but weather deteriorating. From C3 started at 11:45 pm on 9th and from C4 at 2:00 am on 10th. All six slept at C2 which was reached at 7 pm on 10th in descent.
Accidents None except Rakoncaj paratyphoid
Achievement 1st Czech and US main summit
Agency Trekking International
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452295
Year 1988
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Stephen (Steve) Boyer M 1946 USA Exp Doctor Portland, Oregon Physician Details Other expeditions
Nicolas Campredon M 1961 France Climber Paris, France Agronomist Details Other expeditions
Benoit Chamoux M 1961 France Leader La Roche-sur-Foron, Haute-Savoie, France Professional alpinist Details Other expeditions
Agostino Da Polenza M 1955 Italy Exp Manager Albino, Bergamo, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Yves Detry M 1948 France Climber Cluses, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Soro Dorotei M 1951 Italy Climber Belluno, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Josef Rakoncaj M 1951 Czechoslovakia Climber Turnov, Czechoslovakia Designer Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN188101 AAJ Boyer, Steve - - 63:216-217 (1989) -
ANN188101 - Chamoux, Benoit Le Vertige de L'Infini Albin Michel, Paris - C125
ANN188101 - Chamoux, Benoit Montagnes de L'Esprit Robert Laffont, Paris - C126
ANN188101 MM - - - 122:11 (Jul 1988) -
ANN188101 - Rakoncaj, Josef Tulakem Ve Vetru Himalaje Edice Okamiziky, Hradci Kralov, Czechoslovakia - R37
ANN188101 - Da Polenza, Agostino Everest-K2, Montage di Sogno Ferrari Editrice, Clusone, Bergamo, Italy - D33
ANN188101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198921600/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-South-Face - - -