Annapurna I | 1986 N Face (French rte)

A Poland expedition to Annapurna I in 1986 via N Face (French rte), led by Jerzy Kukuczka. Summit reached on 3rd February 1987. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 894
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN186402
Peak ID ANN1
Year 1986
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face (French rte)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Poland
Leaders Jerzy Kukuczka
Sponsor Polish Winter Annapurna Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 15th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Italy
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1987-01-18
Summit Date 1987-02-03
Summit Time 1600
Summit Days 16
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8091
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(18/01,4200m),Biv1(20/01,4900m),Biv2(21/01,5600m),C3(22/01,6100m),Biv3(30/01,6500m),C4(30/01,6800m),C5(01/02,7400m),Smt(03/02)
Route Notes BC at normal site Biv1 at normal C1 site Biv2 at normal C2 site on 2nd plateau C3 at normal C3 site C4 at normal C4 site C5 at left of normal C5 site (300m left). Weather changed 1st of Feb with cloud and snowfall. 20th Jan started up from BC 3 members and made camp at C3 site, slept there on 22 Jan, on 23rd up 100m and then down to BC because Wanda not well and snow conditions bad (much fresh loose snow) and weather changing. Slept 23rd in BC. 2 members made C2 at 5600m on 23rd after 1 night biv at 4900m while made C1. 27th 3 members to C1 joining (Wanda and Michel). 28th 4 members to C2 while Michel descended. 29th same 4 people to C3, 30th traversed into couloir on very dangerous difficult hard ice with snow avalanche carrying stones and ice down couloirs and biv at 6500m near couloir; that night tent broken by falling stones and 31st to C4. 1st Feb 2 members not fully acclimatized and down to BC while and 2 members [Kukuczka and Hajzer] up to C5 in snowfall and 30-40m visibility up very hard ice like glass. 2 Feb tired so postponed ascent till 3 Feb. On 2 Feb 40cm snow fell; stayed on C2 (higher up wind blew it away). 3rd Feb after 5 hrs cooking started for top at 7:00 am. 3rd Feb half-meter fresh snow 2000m below summit but high up snow did not stay. In desent very big problem: on 3rd Feb reached C5 at 10:00 pm because extreme difficult to see way, couldn't find traverse for some time on 4th Feb, but did follow route eventually; slept in C3 on 4th and BC on 5th. 2 members [Wanda and Wielicki] up from BC 6th Feb; to C4 on 8th Feb, but on 9th down again because of bad weather and Wanda not feeling strong. 10th Feb all in BC and climb finished.
Accidents None but Palkiewicz had heart condition and stayed BC only 1 week as precaution
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451831
Year 1986
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face (french rte)

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jerzy Kukuczka M 1948 Poland Leader Katowice, Poland Electrician Details Other expeditions
Artur Henryk Hajzer M 1962 Poland Climber Katowice, Poland Student, world cultures & high-altitude painter Details Other expeditions
Wanda Rutkiewicz F 1943 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Computer engineer, writer, lecturer & alpinist Details Other expeditions
Krzysztof Wielicki M 1950 Poland Climber Tychy, Poland Electronics engineer Details Other expeditions
Jacek Palkiewicz M 1942 Italy Climber Bassano del Grappa, Vicenza, Italy Instructor at survival school & journalist Details Other expeditions
Michel Tokorzewski M 1957 Poland Exp Doctor Warsaw, Poland Surgeon Details Other expeditions
Ryszard Warecki M 1952 Poland Climber Katowice, Poland Metallurgist Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN186402 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 61:251 (1987) -
ANN186402 - Kukuczka, Jerzy My Vertical World Mountaineers, Seattle - K354
ANN186402 - Kukuczka, Jerzy Kukuczka, Moj Pionowy Swiat Wydawnictwo 'Sport i Turystyka', Warsaw - -
ANN186402 - Kukuczka, Jerzy Na Szczytach Swiata Krajowa Agencia Wydawnicza, Katowice, Poland - K354
ANN186402 MM - - - 116:9 (Jul 1987) -
ANN186402 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198725102/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-Winter-Ascent-Kukuczkas-13th-8000er-1987 - - -