Annapurna I | 1986 NW Face/Ridge to 'Nameless Peak'

A France expedition to Annapurna I in 1986 via NW Face/Ridge to 'Nameless Peak', led by Henri Sigayret. Summit reached on 8th October 1986. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 936
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN186303
Peak ID ANN1
Year 1986
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Face/Ridge to 'Nameless Peak'
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Henri Sigayret
Sponsor French Expedition (Sigayret) Autumn 1986
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-09-16
Summit Date 1986-10-08
Summit Time -
Summit Days 22
Total Days 23
Termination Date 1986-10-09
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7900m due to high winds
High Point (m) 7900
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Only 'Nameless Peak'
Campsites BC(16/09,4000m),C1(18/09,4800m),C2(25/09,7000m),Biv(07/10,7500m),xxx(08/10,7900m)
Route Notes BC at Messner BC C1 at Messner C1. Seracs at 7200m-7300m needed fixed rope on 25th Sept and down in bad weather. Now just Gabarrou and Pemba Norbu, a good climber who does not require lots of fixed rope. Again up 3rd Oct to C1, 4th towards C2 but having to leave loads, 5th to C2, 6th bad weather and stayed C2, 7th to biv, 8th reached ridge, see not possible to reach main summit on long ridge so go to peak without name and return to biv. 9th tried to go to main summit but very cold and very strong wind, so turned back and reached C2 at night. Would have died probably if had kept on climbing because of terrible winds. Frequently falling seracs astonished Gabarrou at constant danger, but did not hit them. Bouvard left early not because sick, but unwilling to accept this danger.
Accidents Slight frostbite in toes of Gabarrou and Pemba
Achievement 1st ascent to this peak on ridge
Agency Trekking & Expedition Services (TES)
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451713
Year 1986
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw face/ridge to 'nameless peak'

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Henri Sigayret M 1934 France Leader Grenoble, Isere, France Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Herve Bouvard M 1962 France Exp Doctor - - Details Other expeditions
Patrick Gabarrou M 1951 France Climber Araches-les-Carroz, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Pemba Norbu Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN186303 AAJ Sigayret, Henri - - 61:250-251 (1987) -
ANN186303 MM - - - 114:12 (Mar 1987) -
ANN186303 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198725003/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-Attempt-by-the-Northwest-Spur-of-Nameless-Peak - - -