Annapurna I | 1986 N Face (French rte)
A Italy expedition to Annapurna I in 1986 via N Face (French rte), led by Sergio Martini. Summit reached on 21st September 1986. 3 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 938 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | ANN186301 |
| Peak ID | ANN1 |
| Year | 1986 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | N Face (French rte) |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Italy |
| Leaders | Sergio Martini |
| Sponsor | Italian Annapurna I Expedition |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 14th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1986-09-07 |
| Summit Date | 1986-09-21 |
| Summit Time | 1345 |
| Summit Days | 14 |
| Total Days | 16 |
| Termination Date | 1986-09-23 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8091 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 1 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 3 |
| Summit Members | 3 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 1 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(07/09,4200m),C1(10/09,4900m),Dep(11/09,5200m),Biv1(19/09,5500m),Biv2(20/09,6900m),Smt(21/09) |
| Route Notes | BC at normal site Deposit in moraine (rock) Biv2 Biv2 on wall left of cycle. Started from C1 on 19th Sept with small tent and slept that night at 5500m. 20th bived at 6900m directly below E Annapurna summit, a good place, below big seracs with no problem of small avalanches (were on French route). 21st to summit from 6900m at 1:45 pm (left biv at 4:00 am, returned to tent at 6900m at 5:30 pm). Difficult from 2nd biv, difficult ice climbing (because big avalanche had carried all snow away). Had problem of descent and so put fixed rope at places (had total only 650m rope - cut it). 22nd slept in C1 and 23rd to BC (day French member killed by loose piton). |
| Accidents | None |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Everest Trekking |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2451696 |
| Year | 1986 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | n face (french rte) |
Members
3 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fausto De Stefani | M | 1952 | Italy | Climber | Castiglione delle Stiviere, Mantova, Italy | Alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Almo Giambisi | M | 1938 | Italy | Climber | Canazei, Trento, Italy | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Sergio Martini | M | 1949 | Italy | Leader | Rovereto, Trento, Italy | Teacher, physical education | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ANN186301 | AAJ | Martini, Sergio | - | - | 61:250 (1987) | - |
| ANN186301 | MM | - | - | - | 112:10 (Nov 1986) | - |
| ANN186301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198725001/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna | - | - | - |