Annapurna I | 1986 N Face (French rte)

A Italy expedition to Annapurna I in 1986 via N Face (French rte), led by Sergio Martini. Summit reached on 21st September 1986. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 938
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN186301
Peak ID ANN1
Year 1986
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face (French rte)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Sergio Martini
Sponsor Italian Annapurna I Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 14th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-09-07
Summit Date 1986-09-21
Summit Time 1345
Summit Days 14
Total Days 16
Termination Date 1986-09-23
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8091
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(07/09,4200m),C1(10/09,4900m),Dep(11/09,5200m),Biv1(19/09,5500m),Biv2(20/09,6900m),Smt(21/09)
Route Notes BC at normal site Deposit in moraine (rock) Biv2 Biv2 on wall left of cycle. Started from C1 on 19th Sept with small tent and slept that night at 5500m. 20th bived at 6900m directly below E Annapurna summit, a good place, below big seracs with no problem of small avalanches (were on French route). 21st to summit from 6900m at 1:45 pm (left biv at 4:00 am, returned to tent at 6900m at 5:30 pm). Difficult from 2nd biv, difficult ice climbing (because big avalanche had carried all snow away). Had problem of descent and so put fixed rope at places (had total only 650m rope - cut it). 22nd slept in C1 and 23rd to BC (day French member killed by loose piton).
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency Everest Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451696
Year 1986
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face (french rte)

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Fausto De Stefani M 1952 Italy Climber Castiglione delle Stiviere, Mantova, Italy Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Almo Giambisi M 1938 Italy Climber Canazei, Trento, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Sergio Martini M 1949 Italy Leader Rovereto, Trento, Italy Teacher, physical education Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN186301 AAJ Martini, Sergio - - 61:250 (1987) -
ANN186301 MM - - - 112:10 (Nov 1986) -
ANN186301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198725001/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna - - -