Annapurna I | 1986 N Face (French rte)

A Italy expedition to Annapurna I in 1986 via N Face (French rte), led by Giacomo Stefani. Summit reached on 25th April 1986. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 960
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN186102
Peak ID ANN1
Year 1986
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face (French rte)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Giacomo Stefani
Sponsor Spedizione Citta de Lecco 1986 to Annapurna I
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Mristi Khola
Basecamp Date 1986-04-12
Summit Date 1986-04-25
Summit Time -
Summit Days 13
Total Days 22
Termination Date 1986-05-04
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6200m due to bad snow conditions and weather not improving
High Point (m) 6200
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(12/04,4150m),C1(14/04,4850m),C2(20/04,5450m),C3(25/04,6200m),xxx(25/04,6200m)
Route Notes BC at 4150m (usual site for North Face climbs) C1 at usual (usual site for North Face climbs)) C2 at 4850m (usual site for North Face climbs) C3 at 50m or so from usual site for North Face climbs High point at C3 site. Had to fix rope to C1, mostly a walk up from BC, because of much snow lying there. Decided to switch from NW Ridge to N Face route because ridge was all exposed rock, not snow-covered as anticipated and for which they were equipped. On 25th April put all equipment for C3 at 6200m site but bad weather coming and did not sleep there. Now all down in BC during 4 days snowfall (30 cm snowfall daily). 29th good weather and 30th started up again. On 1 May all 5 from C1 to C2 and on the way all were hit by slab avalanche but went to C2 for that night but next day all down to BC to wait for better snow conditions. Then again period of frequent snowfall and then 2 tents at BC destroyed by wind. Went up to clear C1 and C2 on 5th and 6th May, but did not go above C2 because snow conditions too dangerous.
Accidents None except bruised shoulder in avalanche
Achievement -
Agency Mountain Travel
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451547
Year 1986
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face (french rte)

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Severangelo Battaini M 1948 Italy Climber Brescia, Italy Teacher Details Other expeditions
Pierino Maccarinelli M 1951 Italy Climber Lecco, Italy Steelworker Details Other expeditions
Sergio Panzeri M 1952 Italy Deputy Leader Lecco, Italy Steelworker Details Other expeditions
Alberto Stefani M 1955 Italy Climber Brescia, Italy Industrial chemist Details Other expeditions
Giacomo Stefani M 1952 Italy Leader Brescia, Italy Orthopedic surgeon Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN186102 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 61:249-250 (1987) -
ANN186102 MM - - - 110:9 (Jul 1986) -
ANN186102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198724905/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-Attempt - - -