Annapurna I | 1985 NW Face

A Italy expedition to Annapurna I in 1985 via NW Face, led by Reinhold Messner. Summit reached on 24th April 1985. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 168
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN185101
Peak ID ANN1
Year 1985
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Reinhold Messner
Sponsor Messner Annapurna Expedition 1985
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 13th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Austria
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1985-04-09
Summit Date 1985-04-24
Summit Time -
Summit Days 15
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8091
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Dhaulagiri I (DHA1-851-02)
Campsites BC(09/04,4100m),C1(12/04,5100m),C2(21/04,6000m),Biv1(22/04,7200m),Smt(24/04),Biv2(24/04,7500m)
Route Notes BC at left side of Mristi Khola between 1950 & Spring 1984 C1 on glacier. Most difficult sections: Kammerlander below C2 70-75 degrees very steep ice and rock; Messner between C2 and Biv 1: 20m smooth rock (no holds, no pitons possible); Patscheider above Biv 2: 30m vertical green hard ice. Plus ridge is not easy (up and down, quite vertical snow pressed on rocks) and dangerous to fall. Below C2 rock fall in afternoon and middle third above C2 to Biv 1, overlooked by ice serac and biv 1 and 2 below is ice serac. BC - 10 Apr 85 We reached BC, 4010m, yesterday. The route to khola was quite difficult and we had to send back most of our porters halfway; only with 20 of them - going back and forward - we could go ahead. We are on the left side of khola between the Herzog BC (1950) and Sigayret BC (1984). The NW Face of Annapurna looks steep and difficult; anyway we will make a direct route between the Sterner attempt and the Sigayret attempt. Tonight we had a bad storm and the kitchen broke. We have 20 cm of fresh snow. On the 12th April we will go to look for a route throughout the icefall on the foot of our face. The first part of the wall we will fix with ropes. From 6000m onwards it is our plan to try it in alpine style. Letter from Messner, BC - 26 Apr 85 Hans Kammerlander and I climbed up to the summit of Annapurna I on a totally new route: 20/4 C1 easy good weather 21/4 C2 fixed ropes, good weather 22/4 bivouac 7200m, snowstorm 23/4 bivouac 7500m good weather, windy 24/4 summit, strong wind 25/4 BC, snow danger 26/4 all of the members are in the BC; snow avalanches in the face. Now we will wait for a second attempt for the other three. Over route is a fine line, partly extremely difficult and dangerous (extremely) in case of new snow. We had a few good, clear days and came back before a long snowfall. Frostbitten fingers (Hans and I), need rest so bad. Now we wait for the Dhaulagiri. Kammerlander is in the good shape.
Accidents Patscheider fell 600m on May 1 but not seriously injured; Messner and Kammerlander got slight frostbite in toes on summit day
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451180
Year 1985
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw face

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Johann (Hans) Kammerlander M 1956 Italy Climber Ahornach, Bolzano, Italy Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Reinhold Messner M 1944 Italy Leader Villnoss, Bolzano, Italy Author, lecturer & alpinist Details Other expeditions
Reinhard Patscheider M 1957 Italy Climber Langtaufers, Bolzano, Italy Alpine guide & ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Ludwig (Swami Prem Darshano) Rieser M 1956 Austria Climber Mayrhofen, Tirol, Austria Pharmacist Details Other expeditions
Reinhard Schiestl M 1957 Austria Climber Langenfeld/Huben, Tirol, Austria Teacher, primary school Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN185101 AAJ - - - 60:242 (1986) -
ANN185101 MM - - - 105:10 (Sep 1985) -
ANN185101 - Kammerlander, Hans Absteig zum Erfolg Rudolf Rother, Munich - K21
ANN185101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198624204/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-Northwest-Face-and-Dhaulagiri - - -