Annapurna I | 1984 Glacier Dome-E Ridge up; N Face (Dutch Rib) down

A Switzerland expedition to Annapurna I in 1984 via Glacier Dome-E Ridge up; N Face (Dutch Rib) down, led by Frank Tschirky. Summit reached on 24th October 1984. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1008
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN184302
Peak ID ANN1
Year 1984
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 Glacier Dome-E Ridge up; N Face (Dutch Rib) down
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Switzerland
Leaders Frank Tschirky
Sponsor Swiss Annapurna Expedition (to E Ridge of Annapurna I)
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 12th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1984-09-17
Summit Date 1984-10-24
Summit Time 1330
Summit Days 37
Total Days 46
Termination Date 1984-11-02
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8091
Traverse True
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Traversed East & Middle Summits of Annapurna I (ANNE-843-01, ANNM-843-02); climbed Roc Noir (ROCN-843-01); traversed under summit of Glacier Dome (GLAC-843-02)
Campsites BC(17/09,4200m),C1(19/09,5600m),C2(27/09,6500m),C3(04/10,7100m),C4(06/10,7425m),E-Smt(23/10),Biv1(23/10,8020m),Middle-Main-Smt(24/10),Biv2(24/10,7000m),Biv3(25/10,5000m)
Route Notes BC at west side of ridge running south from Fluted Peak C1 at 5600m foot of Fluted peak's SW ridge (not the S Ridge) C2 at 6500m foot of Glacier Dome C3 at 7100m below and west of Glacier Dome summit at beginning of Annapurna I's East Ridge C4 at 7425m west of Roc Noir summit on the ridge Biv1 on 23 Oct at col between East and Middle summits Biv2 on North Face Biv3 on 5000m on North Face. Most difficult part was descent on unprepared route but to return E Ridge too long and fierce winds at continuously high altitude. Next most difficult parts were W Spur of Fluted Peak between C1 and C2 (ice nose of 70m) and between East and Middle summits (high altitude) and Middle to Main summits (rock band). New route and 1st traverse: "very great feat for us without oxygen, without Sherpas, in alpine-style" says Loretan. Do not know whether other members followed to any summits. When Loretan and Joos left C4 on 23 Oct, no one remained in C4. 24 Oct Tschirky and Hobi moved up to C4 for a summit bid, but Hobi got sick and on 25 Oct they went to C2 while Buehler went up to C4 for a summit bid. 26 Oct Buehler too, was not well and descended to BC while Tschirky and Hobi also came down to BC and climb was finished. Distances crow flies: C4 to East Summit - 4 km C4 to Main Summit - 6 km None except altitude illness from insufficient acclimatization by all except Loretan and Joos, but not serious illness. Loretan Annapurna Swiss E Ridge started on 22 Oct. At 3:30 saw them from west from Rock Noir in good weather, no winds, no clouds. Had by chance to reach summit - was good weather also next 2 days.
Accidents None
Achievement Traversed East & Middle & Main Summits of Annapurna; 1st East Ridge ascent 1st E-W-N traverse; 1st traverse of any kind
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450997
Year 1984
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) glacier dome-e ridge up; n face (dutch rib) down

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Ulrich (Ueli) Buehler M 1961 Switzerland Climber Schwanden, Glarus, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Bruno Durrer M 1953 Switzerland Exp Doctor Kuessnacht am Rigi, Schwyz, Switzerland Physician, alpine guide & member of Swiss air mtn rescue Details Other expeditions
Fritz Hobi M 1959 Switzerland Climber Valens, Graubunden, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Norbert Joos M 1960 Switzerland Climber Chur, Graubunden, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Erhard Loretan M 1959 Switzerland Deputy Leader Chatel sur Mt. Salvers, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Frank Tschirky M 1955 Switzerland Leader Malans, Graubunden, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN184302 AAJ Loretan, Erhard - - 59:285-288 (1985) -
ANN184302 HJ Buhler, Ueli Annapurna Swiss Expedition - 42:164-166 (1984-1985) -
ANN184302 MM - - - 102:13 (Mar 1985) -
ANN184302 - Ammann, Jean & Loretan, Erhard Erhard Loretan, Les 8000 Rugissants Editions La Sarine,Fribourg, Switzerland - -
ANN184302 - Ammann, Jean & Loretan, Erhard Erhard Loretan, Den Bergen Verfallen Paulusverlag, Freiburg, Switzerland - -
ANN184302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198528502/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-First-Ascent-of-East-Ridge-and-Traverse - - -
ANN184302 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/42/21/expeditions-and-notes-42/ - - -