Annapurna I | 1984 W Face up; N Face down

A Switzerland expedition to Annapurna I in 1984 via W Face up; N Face down, led by Jean Troillet. Summit reached on 12th October 1984. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1009
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN184301
Peak ID ANN1
Year 1984
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face up; N Face down
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Switzerland
Leaders Jean Troillet
Sponsor Steiner-Troillet Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1984-09-16
Summit Date 1984-10-12
Summit Time -
Summit Days 26
Total Days 33
Termination Date 1984-10-19
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7600m due to bad weather approaching and Steiner's frostbite
High Point (m) 7600
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(16/09,4000m),Biv1(06/10,5000m),Biv2(07/10,6100m),Biv3(08/10,6700m),Biv4(10/10,7400m),xxx(12/10,7600m)
Route Notes No fixed camps above BC, no fixed ropes - before push to top had reached almost 6000m in recce of face on 30th Sept. Began push from BC 6th Oct. Steep ice (70-90 degrees). On 10/11 Oct night wind so strong had to dig snow cave at 2:00 am. 12th Oct strong wind and clear skies got to 7600m on shoulder of NW Ridge and back to 7400m. Saw bad weather coming from west and only 1 gas bottle left so continued down via extreme W Side on N Face to N Face team's C2 to BC of this autumn Japanese-Czech team. Arrived BC 5:00 am on 13th. Main problem was wind. On 12th poor "visibility." We didn't know where we were plus 55-90 degrees steep face mostly ice, little rock made it technically difficult.
Accidents Steiner right finger frostbitten; fell 200m, had soft snow avalanche cover them and fell into small crevasse on descent
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450985
Year 1984
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face up; n face down

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Pierre-Alain Steiner M 1960 Switzerland Climber L'Orient, Vaud, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jean Fernand Troillet M 1948 Switzerland Leader Orsieres, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN184301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 59:288 (1985) -
ANN184301 MM - - - 102:13-14 (Mar 1985) -
ANN184301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198528801/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-Attempt - - -