Annapurna I | 1984 NW Spur-W Ridge

A France expedition to Annapurna I in 1984 via NW Spur-W Ridge, led by Henri Sigayret. Summit reached on 23rd April 1984. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1044
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN184101
Peak ID ANN1
Year 1984
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Spur-W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Henri Sigayret
Sponsor First on Peak-without-Name to Annapurna 8091m
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Canada
Approach Mristi Khola
Basecamp Date 1984-03-19
Summit Date 1984-04-23
Summit Time -
Summit Days 35
Total Days 38
Termination Date 1984-04-26
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7200m due to fatal avalanche at C3
High Point (m) 7200
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 2
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(19/03,4000m),C1(22/03,5000m),C2(25/03,5600m),C3(06/04,6100m),C4(21/04,6400m),xxx(23/04,7200m)
Route Notes BC 2 hours before North Face BC C1 east of Thulobugin Pass in Mristi Khola. Attempt to climb nameless 7700m peak along W Ridge route to Annapurna I summit. BC to C1 very dangerous (falling seracs daily), but Sigayret asks for 1986 or 1987 permit with safer BC site and route on west side of spur rather that this spring's east side at lower part of route. C1 had to be snow cave in steep section. C2 tents broken by storm and also made cave here. C2 to C3 difficult but not dangerous: rock and ice. C3 tents also destroyed and made cave between C3 and C4 long traverse slightly dangerous and getting to dangerous couloir. "Weather not very bad not very good." 50m above high point of 23 April was wide steep (serac) icefall but this the last difficulty. Above that gentle sloping glacier to ridge. On ridge maybe difficult step midway on ridge to top but this perhaps can be got around on S Face. Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 17 April 84 Annapurna I C3 6150m on 6 April but because of danger of avalanche to this camp on 7th April would 50m higher. 9 April all in BC for rest and planned to start climb 12 April.
Accidents 2 Sherpas carried 200m by avalanche below C2 but not injured; avalanche swept away C3 tent along with Taglianut and Dumas (bodies not found)
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450813
Year 1984
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw spur-w ridge

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Herve Bouvard M 1962 France Exp Doctor Thyez, Haute-Savoie, France Physician Details Other expeditions
Patrick Gabarrou M 1951 France Climber Araches-les-Carroz, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Henri Sigayret M 1934 France Leader Grenoble, Isere, France Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Louis Craig M 1951 Canada Climber Montreal, Canada Film technician Details Other expeditions
Michel Drapier M 1943 France Climber Grenoble, Isere, France Editorial director Montagnes Magazine Details Other expeditions
Philippe Dumas M 1951 France Climber Paris, France Mountaineering-equipment salesman Details Other expeditions
Roger Fillon M 1951 France Climber Le Nerey, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Andre Laperriere M 1953 Canada Climber Montreal, Quebec Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Pierre Sigayret M 1956 France Climber Echirolles, Isere, France Elementary school teacher Details Other expeditions
Patrick Taglianut M 1956 France Climber La Ravoire, Savoie, France Railway technician Details Other expeditions
Pemba Norbu Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN184101 AAJ Sigayret, Henri - - 59:283-285 (1985) -
ANN184101 HJ Sigayret, H. Nameless Peak - Annapurna Massif in Sketches - 41:45-49 (1983-1984) -
ANN184101 MM - - - 99:9 (Sep 1984) -
ANN184101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198528304/Asia-Nepal-Annapurnas-West-Northwest-Spur-Attempt-and-Tragedy - - -
ANN184101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/41/7/nameless-peak-annapurna-hassif-route-in-sketches/ - - -