Annapurna I | 1982 N Face (Dutch Rib)

A Japan expedition to Annapurna I in 1982 via N Face (Dutch Rib), led by Susumu Akamatsu. Summit reached on 16th October 1982. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2053
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN182302
Peak ID ANN1
Year 1982
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face (Dutch Rib)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Susumu Akamatsu
Sponsor Yeti Dojin Annapurna I Expedition 1982
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1982-10-03
Summit Date 1982-10-16
Summit Time -
Summit Days 13
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6200m due to fatal avalanche
High Point (m) 6200
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 2
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(03/10,4100m),C1(05/10,4850m),C2(10/10,5400m),C3(16/10,6200m),xxx(16/10,6200m)
Route Notes Ozaki - 23 Oct 82 BC established at 4100m by other 2 members on 3 Oct and Ozaki arrived 6 Oct. C1 - 5 Oct at 4850m. C2 - 10 Oct at 5400m about 100m to side of site where accident. C2 - moved to very safe place Oct 11 after 1st C2 place moved because realized 1st site not safe. C3 - 16 Oct at 6200m and all equipment carried up there by 3 Japanese after Ozaki alone made route and fixed rope since others not strong and very slow; they were not acclimatized. 1 Sherpa above BC arrived from C1 to C2 and then left expedition. 17 Oct Ozaki and thus carried to C3 and returned to C2. Planned 18 Oct all move to C3 but other 2 not so strong and decided 1 day next at C2. 18 Oct at 4:00 am in dark, avalanche struck C2. Blocks of ice 5m x 5m and snow came in not so big avalanche; blocks broke 2 men's tent and snow covered 1m deep while Ozaki's tent partly broken and little covered by snow. Ozaki called out and no response so got out quickly and dug in snow about 1-1/2 hours; found their bodies in tent moved maybe 1m. Ozaki waited for 7:00 am walkie-talkie radio contact with BC Sherpas and then went to C1 totally unharmed to meet Passang Norbu, an experienced man. 1 Sherpa there who came up from BC. At 6:00 am light snowfall. Face very dangerous above C1 and too dangerous to go to C2. They packed up C1 and both descended ot BC same day in afternoon and after eating left BC and biv in Mristi Khola that night. 19 Oct continued trek towards Jomsom which reached 21 Oct; flew Jomsom/Pokhara/KTM 22 Oct. Plan 18 Oct Ozaki and others from C1 to C3. 19 Oct Ozaki to make C4 at about 6950m alone and go to summit alone 20 Oct. No oxygen at all. 4 Nov families of dead members arrived KTM and Ozaki goes with them by plane or helicopter along side of Annapurna. 2 from Akamatsu family (maybe father and mother) and 1 from Ono (who don't know). Ozaki returned to Japan with them about 10 Nov. Should go to Everest winter, but "my heart is broken" though body and spirit very good." This winter [stay] in Japan. Sharma, Tourism - 21 Oct 82 Abandoned because death of leader (1) Susumu Akamatsu, 1953 of Kawasaki, and (2) Miki Ono, 1952. On Oct 18 at about 4:00 am while at C2, snow avalanche covered C2 and they were buried. No information regarding recovery of bodies or camp found. One remaining member is well, Takashi Ozaki, 1952. Ozaki - 28 Sept 82 500m fixed rope for Dutch Rib section. Highest camp at 7000-7100m. Other members no Himalayan experience. Ozaki solo to top from highest camp which may be C3 or C4. Ozaki leaves for BC 28 Sept, and arrive BC after 10 days. 2 Sherpas above BC. No oxygen at all. Hope summit 25 Oct (2 weeks on mountain). Akamatsu - 21 Sept 82 2 arrive KTM 16 Sept, leave 22 Sept to Pokhara by bus 12 days to BC, arrive about 5 Oct BC at 4000m Route = North Face, Dutch route 4 camps above BC C4 at 7000m or higher if possible Summit 20 Oct-30 Oct 1 Sherpa above BC No oxygen at all. Yeti Dojin Annapurna I expedition Ozaki in KTM 25 Sept and joins others at BC
Accidents 2 killed by avalanche at C2
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450211
Year 1982
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face (dutch rib)

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Susumu Akamatsu M 1953 Japan Leader Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan Mountaineering equipment salesman Details Other expeditions
Mikio Ono M 1952 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Landscape gardener (makes Japanese gardens) Details Other expeditions
Takashi Ozaki M 1952 Japan Climber Kameyama, Mie, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN182302 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 57:242 (1983) -
ANN182302 MM - - - 89:12 (Jan 1983) -
ANN182302 IWA - - - 95:199 (1983) -
ANN182302 IWA - - - 95:45 (1983) -
ANN182302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198324201/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-Tragedy - - -