Annapurna I | 1982 N Face

A Austria expedition to Annapurna I in 1982 via N Face, led by Hanns Schell. Summit reached on 4th May 1982. 20 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1684
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN182101
Peak ID ANN1
Year 1982
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Austria
Leaders Hanns Schell
Sponsor Austrian Annapurna I Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 11th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Czechoslovakia, Switzerland
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1982-04-12
Summit Date 1982-05-04
Summit Time 1230
Summit Days 22
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8091
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 18
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 1
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(12/04,4250m),C1(10/04,5000m),C2(14/04,5600m),C3(20/04,6400m),C4(03/05,7100m),Smt(04/05)
Route Notes Both Austrian-Swiss and German expedition running together except for summit. No problem between groups [thus combined description for both expeditions]. Germans arrived BC 5 April at 4250m; Schell and his Austrian-Swiss team arrived BC 12 April and BC 50m different. C1 5000m 10 April occupied. Aust-Swiss had C1 same place C2 5600m 14 April Germans and Austrians at same altitude C3 6400m Austrian 20 April C3 6300m Germans 21 April C4 in snowcave by Germans 6800m on 3 May C4 by Austrians at 7100m also on 3 May C5 by Germans at 7250m on 5 May (Austrian-Swiss had no C5) Germans tried summit on 6 May: Beyerlein, Guenther, Kirner and Lechleitner. No Sherpas because Germans had no Sherpas. 7950m reached. Beyerlein spent 4 days in C5 and tried a second time for summit with Kuehn 9 May; reached 7300m only this time. No success for Germans: strong storm and very cold. Germans used no oxygen; one has frostbitten toes; no accidents. Shanti Rai helping clear route but C2 and C3 very difficult, very steep. He was given big load by Sherpas who did not wait for him. He alone in chimney, maybe fall backwards with load. Disappeared and definitely is dead. Was stormy: snowfall with wind and cold that day. 7 yesterday, others arrive about 27-8 May. at Shakti Hotel. Schell - 12 May 82 4 left BC 7th evening; others started from BC on 13th and arrived 21 or 22 May (at Ambassador). C4 by Germans at 6800m C4 at 7100m by Austrians on 3 May C5 on 5 May at 7300m by Germans 4 May at 2:00 am 6 set out for top from C4: Woergoetter, Buerkli, Haegler, Buholzer and Fehlmann. Buholzer and Fehlmann dropped out at 7900m tired. Other 4 to top, 12:30 by Dawa Tenzing and Woergoetter and other 2 about 3:00 pm. Little windy on top but fine even for 2nd pair. 1-1/2 hour on top and returned to C4 at 5:00 pm and other Haegler at 6:30 and Buerkli at 7:30 pm. Buerkli arrived at C4, spoke few words and collapsed. Tried for 4-1/2 hours to revive him but leader and doctor believe he died immediately on arrival at C4. Next group (Austrian-Swiss) and in C3 that day and on 6 May tried for top but did not get above 7900m, same as Germans. 3rd and 4th groups from Austria were to try and may be Germans also. Doubt they could have succeeded because bad weather. Body not possible to bring down so left in crevasse at 7100m near C4. Dutch Rib not possible now but in autumn good. Followed Spanish East Peak route and then Germans Middle Peak route and thence to top. Over 1000m fixed rope. Werner and Egertz - 23 April 82 By first group: BC 4250m C1 5100m C2 5850m depot - 6 April Hans Schell arrived BC 7 or 8 April Egertz left expedition because of sickness on 19 April. Schell - 7 April 82 Schell and last 3 others of Austrians group leave KTM today and arrive BC after 8 days. Main Austrian party arrive BC 2 days from now. Germans have no H-A Sherpas Austrians have 4 H-A Sherpas Austrians have 12 med oxygen only All must climb same route (Dutch rib) Germans permitted to go to site of C2 (5500m) only; not even to establish camp there until Schell arrives BC. Then all decide exact route and climb proceeds. Schell expects both parties camps to be very near each other, but lack of space on rib will require same slight distance between them. BC - 4400m C1 - 5000-5100m (only for acclimatization and emergency) C2(ABC) - 5500m C3 - 6300m C4 - 7000m C5 - 7500m Summit early May All must leave BC before or with Schell. None can stay on after he leaves. Schell expects return KTM late in May, but must give chance to all to go to summit. Austrian Annapurna I 4 arrived KTM 7 March and 10 more came 14th. All are Germans except Umlauft. Sherpas above BC. Annapurna I North Face Dutch route Leave 17-19 March and arrive BC about 10-12 days later. Hanns Schell's group of 18 arrive 15 and 22 March and Schell on 4 April and join at BC 1-2 weeks later. 7 Sherpas above BC 5 camps above BC with C5 at 7000-7200m Summit 15-20 May Oxygen medical only
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450046
Year 1982
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face

Members

20 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Martin Bonderer M 1951 Switzerland Climber Wangs, St. Gallen, Switzerland Construction engineer Details Other expeditions
Werner Buerkli M 1939 Switzerland Climber Meggen, Lucerne, Switzerland Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Josef Buholzer M 1947 Switzerland Climber Horw, Luzern, Switzerland Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Michael Dubler M 1950 Switzerland Climber Lausanne, Switzerland Engineer Details Other expeditions
Franz Edehlauser M 1922 Austria Climber Optikon, Zurich, Switzerland Electrician Details Other expeditions
Fritz Fehlmann M 1931 Switzerland Climber Wettingen, Aargau, Switzerland Engineer Details Other expeditions
Thomas Haegler M 1954 Switzerland Climbing Leader Muttenz, Basel, Switzerland Teacher Details Other expeditions
Wilfried Hagen M 1939 Austria Climber Hard, Vorarlberg, Austria Draftsman Details Other expeditions
Rostislar Hroza M 1943 Czechoslovakia Climber Hradec Kralove, Czechoslovakia Machine design engineer Details Other expeditions
Martin Ineichen M 1944 Switzerland Climber Luzern, Switzerland Mechanic Details Other expeditions
Franz Kroesslhuber M 1949 Austria Exp Doctor Braunau, Upper Austria, Austria Physician Details Other expeditions
Eugen (Geni) Reiser M 1917 Switzerland Climber Zurich, Switzerland Gardener Details Other expeditions
Hanns Schell M 1938 Austria Leader Graz, Styria, Austria Merchant Details Other expeditions
Sebastian (Wastl) Woergoetter M 1937 Austria Climbing Leader Saalfelden, Salzburg, Austria Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Herbert Zefferer M 1946 Austria Climber St. Andra, Lower Austria, Austria Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Helmut Hesse M 1947 Austria Climber Attnang-Puchheim, Upper Austria, Austria Physician Details Other expeditions
Sebastian (Wastl) Hoelzl M 1945 Austria Climber Innsbruck, Tirol, Austria Achivist in a library Details Other expeditions
Leopold Karner M 1930 Austria Climber Stein, Styria, Austria Furniture maker Details Other expeditions
Dawa Tenzing Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Shanti Rai M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN182101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 57:240 (1983) -
ANN182101 MM - - - 86:11 (Jul 1982) -
ANN182101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198324002/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-Ascent-and-Tragedy - - -