Annapurna I | 1980 N Face

A Japan expedition to Annapurna I in 1980 via N Face, led by Naoe Sakashita. Summit reached on 13th February 1981. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1851
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN180401
Peak ID ANN1
Year 1980
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Naoe Sakashita
Sponsor -
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1981-01-27
Summit Date 1981-02-13
Summit Time -
Summit Days 17
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6700m due to bad weather
High Point (m) 6700
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 1
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(27/01,4250m),C1(29/01,5050m),C2(04/02,5600m),C3(12/02,6300m),xxx(13/02,6700m)
Route Notes Sakashita - 28 Feb 81 Mingma Tsering dropped out 30 minutes before departure, Pasang Norbu of Namche took his place (was Baruntse summiter autumn 1980) but left expedition 9 Feb from C2. Ang Phurba was with Sakashita to C2 and carried load to C3 but did not stay in C3 because said gets headache above 6000m. Because of weather had more camps than planned above C1; many more crevasses above C1 than in autumn; crevasse fell into on recce was hidden through: now 5m wide. 30 crevasses from C1 to C2 and half hidden: Sherpas fell into them 3 times but roped to Sakashita and Ok. Stayed on French route because Dutch Rib almost bare rock. Wind very strong but not much snow so not so many avalanches as other season; were avalanches but didn't hit expedition. 200-300m below C3 Ang Phurba left same loads; after C3 must attack alpine-style because no Sherpa help and no time 13-14-15 attack days. 13 Feb didn't carry up load high enough for C4 to 7200m, but wind prevented this; reached 6700m. 14 Feb am also very strong wind like under helicopter and very big sound then climbed 100m above C3 then decided to return to BC since no possibility to reach summit in 2 days and Ang Phurba complaining of toothache. Phurba claimed avalanche of ice blocks almost hit him 400m below C3 after dumping load 200-300m below C3. No accidents to anyone except Ang Phurba broke tooth when hit his face on ice face. On 12th Feb Sakashita tried recce above C3 and returned to C3 that night; small ice pieces size of first and same stones hit Sakashita on head which he covered with spare socks, etc. 13 Feb carried some load above C3 to establish C4 but very strong wind and returned to C3. C3 to left of French C3 (see diagram Herzog p.151) at 21,650 feet. Put in total 350m fixed rope on entire route; not so cold as expected; wind really strong but not so strong as expected. No trouble from injured thumb. I expected difficulty from winter weather including avalanche danger, but my power not so strong to camp 8000m mountain; had enough supplies, time shortage or problem. Sakashita will go with Konishi Everest South Face 1983 autumn. 5-6 members, now will do recce 1982 autumn Makalu if possible, 3-4 men Now necessary for me to do heavy training in Japan; will be possible for me to solo on 8000m peak in spring or autumn season after training. No decision which mountain might try to solo, maybe Annapurna which is easy mountain. Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 23 Feb 81 Sakashita abandoned Annapurna at 6700m on 14 Feb bad weather; has returned to BC. Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 19 Feb 81 Sakashita pitched C3 12 Feb 6300m; he started up alone from there the same day. Sakashita - 7 Jan 81 Mingma Tsering (26, from Pangboche) went to top camp with Mexican Yalung Kang expedition. Ang Phurba also with 1980 Italian expedition. 2 times on Churen Himal 2 times on Dhaulagiri I Nuru Wangchu = cook Leave KTM 9 June. 20 days to BC because much recent snow in pass; only 15 days for acclimatization and climb so chances for summit not good. Also finger not perfect but maybe recovers in 2 weeks. Sakashita - 14 Nov 80 Q. How are you? A. Not so good; have to have operation on injured thumb which is fractured into 3 pieces; go to Japan tomorrow; hope to get permission to do climb in spring. Sakashita - 3 Nov 80 Have only 300m of rope for fixed rope so must use French route. Will need 150-200m between BC and C1 so Sherpas can carry up loads. After C1 supplied, will take out this rope and use again higher on mountain. C1 will be use C2, 1300m above BC at 4200m. Above C1 will not go to Dutch rib. I think avalanche danger is same all over mountain and I hope winter season not so much snow. Will stay on mountain 20-25 days only so less exposure to avalanches. Will take 25 day's food supply. "8000m peak is very, very big." Will make C2 at 6500m which is about 200m above usual C3. C3 at 7500m; have tents for 3 camps with final tent small 1-2 man tent. 2 Sherpas on climb. They go maybe to C2 but not above probably unless many crevasses above C2 to C3 will have 1 Sherpa on this section: "I don't want to die." "If my condition not so good I must need Sherpas help" to carry loads to C3. My attempt is not solo. Both Sherpas want to go to summit so after any attempt they will try to go to summit themselves. Soes not expect Sherpas to go with him to top "but everything depends on my condition." Arrived KTM 6th Nov evening from recce above C2 when fell in crevasse and hurt right thumb; will go to hospital on 10th for examination of thumb. On Kangchenjunga I could work hard at 8000m so I have confidence I can get to 8000m summit without oxygen, but Everest 8848m much higher and West Ridge is more exposed to wind than South Col route. My climb is North Face and it also has strong wind, but South Face of Annapurna too difficult technically. Leave KTM 13-14 Nov; establish BC 27-28 Nov after trouble with snow at Choya Pass with 20 porters from Pokhara. Will return to KTM end Dec. "I think 40% chance of success, 40% or 50%. I have not experience in winter season in Nepal on such high mountain and it's a first time to go to big mountain not with partner. Sherpa is not climber, they are porters and they don't speak English or Japanese very much so maybe sometimes I am alone in my mentality, lonely. Not such much information of winter, in Nepal how much wind, how much coldness, how much snow, so possibility 40% if I have enough strength to climb mountain; mountain will regale such poor experience in winter; technically, not difficult, I think its an easy mountain." Fell 30m inside crevasse onto small ledge in it; at first was covered with much ice; 27 Oct at 2:30 pm; was alone 150m above C2; took 30 mins to come out. Sakashita - 13 Oct 80 Goes to do recce of Annapurna; leaves KTM tomorrow with 1 Sherpa, goes to BC and perhaps a little above BC for acclimatization. Returns KTM 10 Nov. Back to BC for start of climb 1 Dec; has supplies for 20 day's climb; will have 2 Sherpas with him to 6500m so not solo. Tourism Ministry would not permit solo attempt "and I need support." Will probably make 2, maybe 3 camps, fixed rope with him. In "normal" season would not need fixed camps but in winter does; also in winter could not go on for more than 20 days. Financed entirely by himself with loans from friends and book translation income; no newspaper backing, no reporters with him as nuisance; his last job was exporting quartz crystals to Switzerland and US; now unemployed. From Nepal may go to US to climb in California with Yvonne Chouinard (whose Climbing Ice he translated) and Rick Ridgeway. Is single, has no commitments, is his own boss: likes this kind of climbing.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449599
Year 1980
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Naoe Sakashita M 1947 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Norbu/Nurbu Sherpa M 1954 Nepal H-A Worker Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ang Phurba Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN180401 AAJ - - - 56:227 (1982) -
ANN180401 MM - - - 79:14 (May 1981) -
ANN180401 IWA - - - 88:190 (1982) -
ANN180401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198222703/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-Winter-Attempt - - -