Annapurna I | 1978 N Face (Dutch Rib)

A USA expedition to Annapurna I in 1978 via N Face (Dutch Rib), led by Arlene Blum. Summit reached on 15th October 1978. 16 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2164
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN178301
Peak ID ANN1
Year 1978
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face (Dutch Rib)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Arlene Blum
Sponsor American Women's Himalayan Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 5th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Czechoslovakia, UK
Approach Pokhara->Mristi Khola
Basecamp Date 1978-08-26
Summit Date 1978-10-15
Summit Time 1529
Summit Days 50
Total Days 59
Termination Date 1978-10-24
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8091
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 13
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 2
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(26/08,4330m),C1(28/08,5030m),C2(03/09,5640m),C3(27/09,6400m),C4(08/10,7010m),C5(14/10,7375m),Smt(15/10)
Route Notes Irene Miller - 3 Nov 78 Ambition to set high record went to Peru in 1958 and did well; Huascaran is highest in Peru 22,205 feet and others 21,000+. First woman and new route on Huascaran. In 1961 hoped they would let me go higher than had gone on Huascaran by going up into fun camps. Did not expect to be member of team; went to Mingbo and Green Hut and then flown out after Ama Dablam, then back in at Silver Hut: returned to Makalu. Climbing in US in Tetons between these and 1964 again in Peru. 1st child in 1962. Now satisfied: as high as could go without oxygen. This the limit of my strength, plus no more time in my life for more expeditions: my kids, my job, my hobbies, music. Climbing certainly not all of my life. Will go back to Tetons and climb almost a very occasional weekends; plus age. Bunch of frustrated old women climbers who no one invited on expeditions. Easier for new to get to top from C5 because we had to carry our own gear up from C4 (Sherpas not carrying for them because it had been decided they going to top too). Had own clothing, sleeping bag and pad, movie camera and film; not over 30 lbs, but was more than others carrying because of movie camera and really dragging along (not on oxygen). People who watched us from below saw me going so slowly were sure I wouldn't be able to make it to summit. From C5 essentially empty pack with still camera and 1 oxygen bottle which itself weighed 15 lbs alone, so 20 lbs; left movie camera behind. Above C5 little steep and then not severe all the way. Roped whole time, but did not belay. I think we had been worried about summit from other expedition's accounts pyramid but this one real problem (we're now on oxygen). When went onto oxygen speeded us up considerably. Got to top essentially together: Chewang raced along series of bumps, not sure which was highest; then Vera, Irene and other Sherpa because that was way we happened to be on rope at the time. Memory lapses: Large stretches of route between C3 - C5 13 and 14th and again on 16th and 17th coming down - "whole time I was above C3 my memory wasn't what it usually is: altitude stress." Not complete blank out, just misty recollection; remember summit day: were exciting and focused on it. Fell into crevasse near C5 (20 feet above it) on way down and ended with feet in air and Mingma I think turned me right side, up so I could climb out. I thought it very funny and laughed and laughed. Thinks she's leaving Nepal Tuesday 7th. PIA say some seats on 7th. Annapurna I press conference - 2 Nov 78 Blum: Apologised for unfortunate way accident news was disseminated. Day Marquita Maytag arrived at BC was day expedition was leaving BC. Had reached BC day before. Before Marquita arrived, runner sent with message of deaths; then realized message by helicopter would reach KTM much earlier. Reached BC on 26 Aug and got there with no loss of loads, one tent pole only. Did not go beyond C2 in early Sept because waited till 12 Sept to raise flags to mountain spirits (Tuesday about good day and 12 Sept new Tibetan month). Then resumed climbing. Dutch route a very difficult climb just as challenging as we expected - 45-55 degrees ice and then one foot wide in newly opened crevasse. Film crew and Joan Firey covered in large avalanche about 6 Sept at 10:45 am between C1 and C2. Dyanna Taylor blown 20 feet into crevasse, C1 tents flattened and BC had shower; most avalanches did not really threaten us except crossing. Above C3 icewall 21,000 to 21,500 feet led by Irene and Piro, a lot of leading by Sherpas - C3-C4 Mingma and Chewang. Above icewall Arlene and Vera K joined the above 2 Sherpas (Mingma and Chewang). C5 14 Oct Margie Rushmore, Chewang and Mingma were to establish camp but Margie turned back after 300 vertical feet because feet freezing. First summit team to be Piro, Irene, Vera K, Mingma and Chewang, but little hole caused Piro's finger to start freezing while putting on crampons at C5 before starting climb. Irene, Vera K and 2 Sherpas left about 7:30 am and members started using oxygen 10:30 am. Sherpas no oxygen - summit reached 3:29 pm and returned safely to C5 just at dark. 2nd summit team Chadwick and Watson, very experienced climbers and most committed to the climb. Vera W carried most loads, Alison lot of load climbing. On 17 Oct 2nd team left C4 for C5 and film crew of C1 could see and film them "steaming right along". Sherpa Wangal should have been with them but sick; they last seen at 5:00 at about 24,000 feet. Right below C5 there is a difficult steep ice step 300 feet high - they were seen below the step and after that not seen again because (a) went for dinner and (b) light failing. BC didn't know at first who were 1st summit team because no radio contact then - film crew saw 4 figures go to the top. 17th Oct no radio contact which should have had - radio contact was done at 6:00 pm and below decided radio with summiters packed in. Next day they were not observed - might have left very early and behind rocks or wind might have kept them in tents at C5. 19 Oct 1st team in C3 in support of 2nd team while others in C2 and film in C1. 20th Oct Sherpas, summiter Mingma and Lhakpa Norbu, went up from C2 to search. 1st team tired in C3 so Sherpas went up instead because they stronger and faster. When Sherpas got above C3 saw red and knew Alison wore red jacket and found her body resting on top of snow serac near crevasse and rope down from her leading into crevasse. What probably happened they slipped on ice step below C5, fell 1500 vertical feet and stopped by Vera W's fall into crevasse - very steep 40-50 degree ice and thus very difficult to arrest fall. Fall like this can happen to anyone anywhere; safety conscious climbers; no attempt to bring down bodies on 1-foot wide ridge which would be dangerous. Piro and Vera K on 21 went from C3 up to put Alison in crevasse and recover their (Chadwick's and Watson's) packs but after half-hour Piro's finger froze again and turned back. No one went up to them. Will write French to put Alison in crevasse; before this winter however, will discuss with Janusz what he wants. 2 Oct all off not and on 23rd planned to leave BC when Maytag turned up semi-unexpectedly. Maytag's departure not purposely delayed. James left early because had climb on 5 Nov on El Capitan. Memorial to Chadwick and Vera W: rock at BC has names of Japanese, Italians and Sherpas killed in 1973 and added Alison and Vera W names to rock. We are very saddened by the tragedy but hope it will not obscure the achievement to the climb. I was delighted with the climb. Morale very high and we all are still good friends which is unusual at end of big expedition. No altitude sickess - all at end well and still carrying loads. "This route much more challenging and technical than South Col route on Everest why 1st team not just women: Sherpas had made significant contribution to establish C5 and route and not fair to exclude tben on summit." If Sherpas with Chadwick and Vera W not necessarily saved. Number of Americans on this expedition capable of going to top. Annie could have gone to top; it just worked out only 1-2 up. Watson born in China of Russian mother and Australian father, linked in many countries, in US since 1962. Kramer: "rather miss the summit than my finger." Blum: her own highest point 21,500 feet; spent most of her time on radio and organizing things. 2nd team: Alison had climbed C3 without oxygen and felt Annapurna could be climbed without oxygen. Alison did not take up her oxygen tank from C4 so oxygen 1-1/2 tank in C5 for Vera W. Miller: on top: "felt great sense of relief did not have to go up any more and satisfaction that expedition successful". Took few days to realize she had US women high altitude record; was very pleased because had wanted to set that record 17 years ago on Makalu (British 1961 expedition). Next project: fish behaviour on Great Barrier Reef, Australia. Everest again? I don't think so. Miller: only US climbs in future; has poor memory of what happened above C3 but of other dangers memory good. Memorial fund to help support women climbing in US. Joan Firey - 1 Nov 78 All now in KTM. PAA - 1 Nov 78 Ashton, Taylor, Blum and Miller booked RA 205 KTM/Del 6 Nov PA 002 Del/SFO 7 Nov Wanda of Everest - 1 Nov 78 Alison Chadwick was Janusz's second wife; first wife (Polish) killed in caving accident about 10 years ago in Soviet Caucasus. Chhetri, MT - 1 Nov 78 From Himalchuli to Blum via Police and Cheney: Leaving Namrung 31 Oct; hope reach KTM 5 or 6 Nov; wait if you can. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 24 Oct 78 Annapurna I - report from Blum 17 Oct. 15 Oct - summit Miller and Komarkova and 2 Sherpas. BC - 26 Aug C1 and C2 without incident - then series of storms one of which destroyed an equipment cache. Dutch route used 4000 feet fixed rope - 6 Sherpas and 10 members C4 8 Oct 23,900 feet C5 13 Oct 24,500 feet 14 Oct 1st summit team to C4 with Kramer 15 Oct Kramer decided not attempt summit that day due to a frozen finger; other 4 left C5 at 7:30 am and 2 member began using oxygen at about 10 am. Weather clear, cold and relatively calm and four on top at 3:29 pm; summit very cold and windy. To south view obstructed by clouds but to north brown hills of icey peaks of Tibet clearly visible. 3 flags hoisted with Save the Whales pin. 4 reached their camp shortly after dark. Climbers in good health although Mingma minor frostbite. 2nd summit team Chadwick and Watson trying to reach summit. Maytag - 24 Oct 78 2nd attempt got as far C5 on 17th: Chadwick and Watson. No more tries. Left BC this am to walk out; arrives KTM 1st Nov. All well except Dr little frostbite which healing. Miller and Komarkova and 2 Sherpas at 3:29 pm 15th. 15 min taking pix of each other weather clean. Could see in all directions 3 flags: US Nepal Expedition flag Not left on top Little wind on top and wispy clouds. Sherpas sprinkled loma rice. BC 13,600 ft Maytag wearing T-shirt "A woman's place is on top" celebrated with 12 bottles wine (California red). Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 22 Oct 78 15 Oct reached summit at 15:29 hours 3:29 pm 2 women, Irene Miller, deputy leader, and Vera Komarkova and Mingma Tsering Sherpa, 25 Pangboche, and Chewang Rinzing Sherpa, 28 Namche. Women used oxygen, but Sherpas without. From BC and C1 they could see flags of USA and Nepal hoisted and 4 climbers could be seen reaching summit; no walkie-talkie, no details of descent, all members well. Trying for second attempt on 17th; no details how many will try not given whether other attempts. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 18 Oct 78 C5 24,500 feet 14 Oct by 2 Sherpas and 3 members. 15 Oct - 4 climbers to top (original plan was only women's members on 1st assault) - no names. 17 Oct - 2nd group would go for top (no number or other details). John Cleare - 29 Sept 78 Lots of avalanching and deep snowfall on Annapurna I according letter from Alison Chadwick to her husband received here yesterday - also wind. Tents covered in snow but no one hit by avalanche yet. Blum - 13 Aug 78 (Press conference) All women's expedition: to give women chance to climb and to be in an organization and decision making. 5 climbing Sherpas and sirdar (no Sherpanis) 201 porters including film crew All members in KTM now leave 14th at 7:00 am Nanda Devi 1979 expedition asking AWHE help and may be given. 12 oxygen bottles (from Dutch); hope to use only for sleeping at C5, but will use for climbing if necessary. Women seen to do better at long distance running and swimming than men; one theory is women metabolise better. "I wish Annapurna were safer." Knows of avalanche danger; hope Spanish-Dutch route will be safe. Wanted on 8000m peak that wouldn't require much oxygen which is why chose Annapurna Blum - 8 Aug 78 First summit attempt: 3 woman in first 1/2 Oct - why even strongest Leave KTM Sat/Sun 10-12 days to BC from Pokhara Blum hopes to get top - wouldn't see myself in first group unless I'm strongest Dutch route or modification of Spanish route, but not to East summit 10 climbers 150 porters 2 film makers 1 BC manager 9 members arrive today 6 + 1 BC and 2 film 5 HA Sherpas and sirdar (2 Sherpanis) Alison Chadwick of Leeds is British - one of few (98) woman in world who have climbed 8000m - she climbed 1975 with Poles to Gasherbrum II (husband is Polish). Oxygen for medical and first team to summit if needed. 2 groups of 3 probably have chance to get to summit Blum in Biochem department, Berkeley; teaching and research, cancer cause and prevention; her highest so far 24,500 ft on Everest. 1961 EPH expedition wife, deputy leader now Vera Watson in Pakistan, etc. 1st woman's solo of Aconcagua. 1st Americans on Annapurna. 1st American woman's expedition in Himalaya. If successful, 1st American woman over 8000m and 1st woman to climb Annapurna. To Winco For Neves, People Magazine, New York by Ms Hawley - 24th Nov 1978 Following is the chronology of the expeditions' progress: 26th Aug - Expedition arrived at BC above sea level. 28th Aug - Mrs. Alison Chadwick of Leeds, England, and Mrs. Liz Klobusicky, an American living with her German husband in Tuebingen, West Germany, established camp 1 at 16,500 ft. 3rd Sept - Mrs. Irene Miller of Palo Alto, California, Vera Komarkova and Arlene Blum of Berkeley, California made C2 at 18,500 ft. 12th Sept - A ceremony to the mountain spirits was held at BC and then work on the technically most difficult part of the climbing route began. From C2, the so-called Dutch route which they then followed, ascends a narrow rib whose side is a 40-55 degree slope of snow and ice and whose crest is a classical alpine ridge about 10 inches wide. 26th Sept - Afer a series of storms and avalanches during the last half of the month had slowed progress considerately, the wind from one huge avalanche levelled C1, but no one was injured. 27th Sept - Alison Chadwick and Liz Klobusicky set up C3 at 21,000 ft. 28th Sept - Strike by the five high-altitude Sherpas, who descended to BC. Strike settled by cash payments and work on the mountain resumed 1st Oct. 8th Oct - Miss Annie Whitehouse of Laramie, Wyoming, at 22 years of age, the second youngest member of the expedition, and Vera Komarkova established C4 at 23,000 ft. 13 Oct - Mingma Tsering Sherpa and Chewang Rinjee Sherpa made C5 at 24,200 ft. The expedition's baby 21 year old Margie Rushmore of Portola Valley, was to be with them, but after 300 vertical feet of climbing, her feet began freezing, and she turned back. 14 Oct - First summit-assault team of Irene Miller, Vera Komarkova, Dr. Piro Kramar of Seattle, Mingma Tsering and Chewang Rinjee, plus one other Sherpa, moved into camps. 15th Oct - Irene Miller, Vera Komarkova, Mingma Tsering and Chewang Pinjee went to the summit from C5. Dr. Piro Kramar froze the tip of her finger while putting on her crampons at C5 and decided not to try for the top. 17th Oct - The second summit team, Alison Chadwick and Vera Watson, left C4 for C5. A Sherpa, Wangdel, was scheduled to go up with them, but he was ill and descended instead. Chadwick and Watson were last seen at 5:00 pm. About 300 ft below C5. 20th Oct - Mingma Tsering and Lhakpa Norbu Sherpa found the bodies of Chadwick and Watson, roped together, below and slightly east of C4 at about 22,500 ft. 22nd Oct - All surviving members returned to BC. 24th Oct - Expedition left BC to return to KTM. Report on Annapurna I by Arlene Blum C1 was established at 16,500 ft on Aug 28 by Alison Chadwick and Liz Klobusicky and C2 at 18,500 ft on Sept by Irene Miller, Vera Komarkova and Arlene Blum. On Sept 12 a ceremony to the mountain spirits was held at base camp and work on the most technically difficult part of the route began. From C2 the route pioneered by the Dutch in 1977 was followed. This route ascends a narrow rib to the east of the French route. The side of the rib is 40 degree and 55 degree snow and ice and the crest is a classical alpine ridge about 10 inches wide. In the last half of Sept a series of storms and avalanches slowed progress. An enormous avalanche swept the glacier near C1. The wind from the this avalanche leveled the camp. C3 was established at 21,000 ft on Sept 27 by Alison Chadwick and Liz Klobusicky. On Sept 28, all 5 high-altitude porters announced they were leaving the expedition for KTM and returned to BC. Strike was settled upon payment of Rs 1296 and work on the mountain resumed on Oct 1. On Oct 8 C4 was established at 23,000 ft by Annie Whitehouse and Vera Komarkova and on Oct 13 C5 was established at 24,200 ft by Sherpas Mingma Tsering and Chewang Rinjee. The next day Irene Miller and Vera Komarkova, Piro Kramar, and three high-altitude porters moved to C5. The next morning Kramar froze the tip of her fingr while putting on crampons and decided not to attempt the summit. Miller, Komarkova, Chewang Rinjee Sherpa and Mingma Tsering Sherpa left camp at 7:00 am and reached the summit of Annapurna I at 3:29 pm. Nepalese, American, and flags were flown from the summit. The team reached C5 at dark (after 7:00 pm) and spent the night there. On Oct 16, the three-high altitude porters descended to C2 and Miller, Komarkova and Kramar went down to C4 where the second summit team, Vera Watson and Alison Chadwick, with Wangdel Sherpa in support were spending the night. On Oct 17, Wangel Sherpa descended to C2 due to illness and Miller, Komarkova and Kramar went down to C4 where the second summit tea, Vera Watson and Alison Chadwick, with Wangel Sherpa in support, were spending the night. Also, Chadwick and Watson left C4 for C5 on Oct 17. They were seen by the film crew at C1 about 300 ft below C5 at about 5:00 pm. Radio contact was not made that night with them and it was assumed their radio was broken (as had been the radio of the first summit team). When radio contact had still not been made by Oct 19, it was decided to go up and see if they needed assistance. On Oct 20, Sherpas Mingma Tsering and Lakpa Norbu went up to look for them. The Sherpas found the bodies of Chadwick and Watson, still roped together, below and slightly east of C4 at about 22,500 ft. Evacuation of the bodies was not attempted as it was judged to be unjustifiably dangerous. All members returned to basecamp by October 22 and left October 24, arriving in Kathmandu November 1.
Accidents Two women killed in fall
Achievement -
Agency Mountain Travel
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448745
Year 1978
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n face (dutch rib)

Members

16 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Marie Ashton F 1953 USA Film Team Portola Valley, California Film-maker/sound technician Details Other expeditions
Arlene Diane Blum F 1945 USA Leader Berkeley, California Biochemist (University of California) Details Other expeditions
Alison Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz F 1942 UK Climber Leeds, W Yorkshire, England - Details Other expeditions
Joan Firey F 1928 USA Climber Seattle, Washington Physical therapist & professional artist Details Other expeditions
Elizabeth N. (Liz) Klobusicky F 1944 USA Climber Tuebingen, Baden-Wuerttemberg, W Germany Teacher (English) Details Other expeditions
Vera Komarkova F 1942 Czechoslovakia Climber Boulder, Colorado Plant ecologist, doing research on Alaskan tundra at Institute Details Other expeditions
Piro Kramar F 1937 UK Exp Doctor Seattle, Washington Ophthalmologist at US Public Health Service Hospital, Seattle Details Other expeditions
Irene Miller F 1935 USA Deputy Leader Palo Alto, California Physicist with IBM Details Other expeditions
Margi Rushmore F 1957 USA Climber Portola Valley, California Student of earth sciences, University of California Details Other expeditions
Dyanna Taylor F 1952 USA Film Team Berkeley, California Film-maker/cinematographer Details Other expeditions
Christy Tews F 1940 USA BC Manager June Lake, California Does massage, carpentry, plumbing Details Other expeditions
Vera Watson F 1933 UK Climber Palo Alto, California Computer programmer Details Other expeditions
Ann (Annie) Whitehouse F 1956 USA Climber Laramie, Wyoming Student, College of Nursing, University of Wyoming Details Other expeditions
Mingma Tshering Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Chowang Rinzi Sherpa M 1949 Nepal H-A Worker Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Lobsang Tshering Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

9 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN178301 AAJ Komarkova, Vera American Women's Himalayan Expedition, Annapurna I - 53:45-58 (1979) -
ANN178301 - Blum, Arlene Annapurna, A Woman's Place Sierra Club Books, San Francisco - B427
ANN178301 HJ Blum, Arlene Women on Annapurna - 38:49-56 (1980-1981) -
ANN178301 MM - - - 64:14 (Nov 1978) -
ANN178301 MM Kloblusicky-Mailander, Liz Annapurna Diary - 88:38-41 (Nov 1982) -
ANN178301 IM Blum, Arlene American Ladies Ascend Annapurna I - 6:22-34 (Autumn 1980) -
ANN178301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197904500/American-Womens-Himalayan-Expedition-Annapurna-1 - - -
ANN178301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/38/8/women-on-annapurna/ - - -
ANN178301 NGS Blum, Arlene Triumph and Tragedy on Annapurna - 155-3:295-313 (Mar 1979) -