Annapurna I | 1978 N Face

A Austria expedition to Annapurna I in 1978 via N Face, led by Ernst Gritzner. Summit reached on 8th May 1978. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2130
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN178101
Peak ID ANN1
Year 1978
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Austria
Leaders Ernst Gritzner
Sponsor -
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Kali Gandaki->Mristi Khola
Basecamp Date 1978-04-19
Summit Date 1978-05-08
Summit Time -
Summit Days 19
Total Days 25
Termination Date 1978-05-14
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6200m due to avalanche injuries
High Point (m) 6200
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(19/04,4200m),C1(21/04,5000m),C2(5600m),xxx(08/05,6200m)
Route Notes Dr Alf - 11 May 78 Arrived on 8 May about 8:30 am at about 6200m making route to site of C3 (C2 at 5600m - C3 would have been about 6400m). Climbing were Sagmeister, Widmann and 2 Sherpas. Icefall started at about 7000m and caused avalanche with strong winds and pressure; hit only the 2 Austrians while 2 Sherpas were lucky to protect themselves behind ice; Sagmiester also some what protected by Widmann was hit on head by ice and fell 10m. Sherpas not hurt at all. Sagmeister ice hit on shoulder and frostbite in both hands but will heal as will shoulder, etc. Widmann cuts on head; has been X-rayed. Was disoriented but now better. In hospital (Sagmeister also in room with him, but his hospitalization not really necessary). Probably stay in KTM 10 days to close head cuts. Expedition slow because of much snow and avalanches. Rosefolder and Pletschko had been first to go to area where Widmann hit; had been up 3-6 May and then came down on 6th to BC saying it too dangerous. Tried on 7th another route to west but too difficult. Altogether 4 members had decided too dangerous and would not go up. All to be in BC today and porters come 13 May to pack up. SR Sharma, Tourism - 12 May 78 Annapurna I abandoned. Rudolf Widmann in Shanta Bhavan hospital. Trapped in avalanche while going to C3 site and injured in head 8 May and abandoned same day. SR Sharma, Tourism - 10 May 78 Police radio message from Annapurna I expedition requests helicopter to Jomsom, where leader is and thence to BC or C1 to bring to KTM Rudolf Widmann for operation. Widmann on 8 May was making route to C3 jsut above C2; hit by avalanche. He is being taken down to C1 and to BC. Gritzner - 3 April 78 Route: try to east of French route but will see when reach mountain and see avalanche pattern and keep log book on time of day. Pokhara -> BC 8-9 days. BC at 4500m. 5 camps above BC with C5 7400-7500m. No interest in east peak. Have oxygen but think not necessary for climbing or sleeping - although possibly summiters sleep on oxygen night before summit attack. Sirdar and 4 Sherpas above BC. When realized his expedition is 13th on Annapurna I - "That's unlucky for us."
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448585
Year 1978
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Ernst Gritzner M 1944 Austria Leader Klagenfurt, Carinthia, Austria Computer programmer Details Other expeditions
Peter Sagmeister M 1936 Austria Climber Ferlach, Carinthia, Austria - Details Other expeditions
Rudolf Widmann M 1937 Austria Climber Ferlach, Carinthia, Austria Locksmith Details Other expeditions
Gunther Rosefelder M 1939 Austria Climber Feld-Am-See, Carinthia, Austria Locksmith Details Other expeditions
Albert Ogriz M 1942 Austria Climber Klagenfurt, Carinthia, Austria Railway official Details Other expeditions
Oswald Pletschko M 1942 Austria Climber Volkermarkt, Carinthia, Austria Clerk Details Other expeditions
Herbert Jesenko M 1949 Austria Climber Ferlach, Carinthia, Austria Plumber Details Other expeditions
Paul Alf M 1948 Austria Climber Klagenfurt, Carinthia, Austria Physician Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN178101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 53:274 (1979) -
ANN178101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197927401/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-I - - -