Annapurna I | 1973 NE Buttress (to 6500m)

A Japan expedition to Annapurna I in 1973 via NE Buttress (to 6500m), led by Shigeki Tsukamoto. Summit reached on 14th May 1973. 14 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2350
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN173101
Peak ID ANN1
Year 1973
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Buttress (to 6500m)
Route 2 N side (to 8040m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Shigeki Tsukamoto
Sponsor Japanese Annapurna Expedition of Shinano-Shibu - Annapurna I
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1973-04-04
Summit Date 1973-05-14
Summit Time -
Summit Days 40
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8040m due to high winds and exhaustion
High Point (m) 8040
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 11
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 4
Total Hired 10
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 1
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(04/04,4300m),C1(07/04,5200mm),C2(18/04,6000m),C3(26/04,6500m),C4,C5(7500m),xxx(14/05,8040m)
Route Notes Tsukamoto, Horiuchi & Sonam Ishi - 28 May 73 Tsukamoto, Horiuchi and Sonam Ishi arrived today by car from Pokhara. Killed: Takahashi, Hama, Ushigoe, Katagiri and Chong Rinji Sherpa from Solukhumbu (Junbesi). 14th May - 1st attempt on summit. Ushigoe and Pasang Norbu, reached 50m from summit and came back, tired. 15th May - 2nd attempt by Furihata and Chong Rinji Sherpa. Snow and very strong wind gusts. Came back to C5 and while returning Chong Rinji became sick. 16th May - to C3 and Sherpa very sick and used much oxygen, almost died. 17th May - about 3 pm very heavy snow which started 12 noon. In C4 4 members and Pasang Norbu and 3 members and 5 Sherpas in C3; all night heavy snow; C3 very dangerous site with new snow avalanche. 18 May - all came down, C3 people to C2 and C4 tried for C2. That day many big avalanches every minute. 1st avalanche hit C4 people between C3 and C4: 3 men hit by main avalanche: Sadatoshi Takahashi, Masanori Hama and Kazumi Katagiri at 11:30 am and they were swept away; Masakatsu Tsukahara and Pasang Norbu safe and returned to C4. C3 people going down: another avalanche hits Tadashi Ushigoe and Rinji 14:40 hours and they also were lost. Takashi Furihata and Tsuyoshi Shintani and 4 Sherpas Ok. Other members on way to Pokhara - reached there 3 or 4 June. First tried NE Buttress and make 2 camps and tried make C3. Reached about 6500m in route making but big crevasses and big seracs and many daily ice avalanche. Abandoned this route 20 April. Changed route to British Army 1970 and same their fixed rope find or not quite same as French route. ND Shrestha, MFA - 27 May 73 Tried to scale but when 50m remaining to top, weather became very bad, snowfall, so gave up and returned but while summit team returned from C4 on 18 May, avalanches swept away 4 members and Sherpa between C2 and C3 and their bodies could not be found. Dead were: 1) Masanori Hama 2) Kazumi Katagiri 3) Sadatoshi Takahashi 4) Tadashi Ushigoe 5) Chong Rinji Sherpa N.D. Shrestha, MFA - 10 May 73 Annapurna I expedition established C3 at 6500m on 26 April Expedition changed route: from NE Buttress to north side. Tsukamoto & Matsnage - 4 March 73 Total 11 members; 9 members arrive today. Leave 8 March by plane to Pokhara; caravan beginning probably 13th and 15th days to base camp. British army route via NE Buttress, which they retreated from Japanese making new route at end upper Glacier 7100m. 6 high camps; C6 7500m about 15 May, summit 20 May. 10 Sherpas including sirdar Sonam, 2 Kitchen boys and 2 mailrunners route very difficult but possible. Tadashi Hsigata - 27 Feb 73 2 members now here; rest 9 more arrive 4 March. Leave by truck on 8th March to Pokhara. Caravan leaves 12th or 13th and reaches base camp after about 15 days. Will climb north side, British army route. 10 Sherpas including sirdar which British abandoned; 6 higher camps with C6 at 7600m; summit 10th May about, 2 summit parties planned. Kaneko - 5 & 7 March 72 Went Annapurna I next year spring, now recce by 4 members. Route next year not yet decided but interested in north side. Will trek to Tilitso Lake and return via Kali Gandaki. Go to Pokhara about 17 March. MFA consider this only trekking and no LO assigned to them.
Accidents 5 killed in two separate avalanches
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446760
Year 1973
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) ne buttress (to 6500m)

Members

14 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Shigeki Tsukamoto M - Japan Leader Suzaka, Nagano, Japan Company director Details Other expeditions
Yukihisa Asawa M - Japan Climbing Leader Matsumoto, Nagano, Japan Director of camera shop Details Other expeditions
Toshiro Matsunaga M 1933 Japan Climber Suginami-ku, Tokyo, Japan Manager of sporting-goods shop Details Other expeditions
Akio Horiuchi M 1933 Japan Climber Suginami-ku, Tokyo, Japan Assistant manager, Nippon Tsuun Co. (transport company) Details Other expeditions
Tsuyoshi Shintani M 1943 Japan Exp Doctor Nagoya, Japan Assistant manager, Nagano Mitsubishi Electric Sales Co. Details Other expeditions
Sadatoshi Takahashi M - Japan Climber Matsumoto, Nagano, Japan Assistant manager, Nagano Mitsubishi Electric Sales Co. Details Other expeditions
Masanori Hama M - Japan Climber Suwa, Nagano, Japan Assistant manager, Suwa Seikosha Co. (watches) Details Other expeditions
Takashi Furihata M 1940 Japan Climber Oto, Tokyo, Japan Student at Kokugakuin University Details Other expeditions
Tadashi Ushigoe M - Japan Climber Shimosuwa, Nagano, Japan Staff member, Yashica Camera Co., Okaya Works Details Other expeditions
Masakatsu Tsukahara M - Japan Climber Toyoshima, Nagano, Japan Manager of works, Tsukahara Sekisan Co. Details Other expeditions
Kazumi Katagiri M - Japan Climber Omachi, Nagano, Japan Staff member, Showa Denko Co., aluminum goods manufacturers Details Other expeditions
Chong Rinji Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Junbesi, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Sonam Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Norbu Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN173101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 48:206 (1974) -
ANN173101 MM - - - 29:13 (Sep 1973) -
ANN173101 MM Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman Annapurna - 58:44-47 (Nov 1977) -
ANN173101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197420601/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-I-Attempt - - -