Annapurna I | 1970 N Face

A UK expedition to Annapurna I in 1970 via N Face, led by Bruce Niven. Summit reached on 20th May 1970. 14 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2484
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN170102
Peak ID ANN1
Year 1970
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Bruce Niven
Sponsor British Army Mt. Association
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 2nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Nepal
Approach Pokhara->Kali Gandaki->Mristi Khola
Basecamp Date -
Summit Date 1970-05-20
Summit Time 1100
Summit Days 0
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8091
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 12
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(4510m),C1(5300m),C2(16/04,5975m),C3(12/05,6700m),C4(16/05,7130m),C5(19/05,7400m),Smt(20/05)
Route Notes Henry Day - 10 June 70 We had certain advantages: French [not?] acclimatized; tremendous psycho-advantage to make 2nd ascent. Had lot of time by coming earlier but when got to base area so much snow took till end April to get last load to base. Used oxygen sleeping last night but C5 (about level of French highest camp) and next day to summit. Did in 3 hours what French took 8 hours to summit. From lower camps observers impressed with speed of climb although Day and Owens not aware moving fast. When turned out pockets, etc., I found I had taken 6 pairs mittens to the top. Fine weather, best bit on mountain: calm high up. Sun 14 to NDH. Tues 16 RAF to Singapore and almost 1 week there and disperse to various units. Niven - 7 June 70 Owens very badly shocked and bruised but apparently not broken; both he and Summerton (who was also with Owens in avalanche) all right now. All well and coming KTM 9th. Between C3 and C4 tremoundous ice climbing, vertical ice slopes, most difficult part after route decision. Base 14,800 ft C1 17,400 ft C2 19,600 ft C3 22,000 ft C4 23,400 ft C5 24,300 ft Top 26,545 ft Shah, MFA - 19 May 19 70 Sitnep 19 May: C4 established on top of sickle glacier 24,000 ft on 16 May. If weather favourable should make summit attempt on 20 May. Plan for return being made maybe in Pokhara by 5 June. Tim Taylor - 6 April 70 Sick about 3 days ago. Did carry to Mristi Khola and return camp on 24th April. Had bad sleeping night coughing and very fast breathing. 3 members and 3 Sherpas in Mristi Khola and in next few days with search for base approach; route nothing like so bad as made out by French. Straightforward path to Mristi Khola. Jones advises not serious now but was very serious in Switzerland last Dec. and Dr Jones advises not over 10,000 ft in next year - hospital 14 days. Niven - 11 May 11 70 6 Sherpas and 2 RNA officers; air drop of rations. Rest of British members and Gorkhas expeditions arrive 16 March evening in Hercules; to be the transferred to smaller RAF aircraft and ferries to Pokhara couple days later. 8-9 day approach march to base camp by end March. 16-17,000 ft at Mristi Khola head. Route about same as 1950 French (20th aniv). French established 5 camps and Niven expects about same, but not may have changed greatly and entirely new route may be necessary. If 2 British expeditions reach summit same time may descend by each others route. 2nd and 3rd week May for summit assault. Like to put 2 summit pairs on top or even more. Will use oxygen for sleeping but perhaps not while climbing. Kent - 5 March 5 70 RAF Hercules C130 arrive KTM with all established team. Maj Bruce Niven Arrive 11th March Bristol Freighter to shuttle KTM-PKR 18 & 19 March Leave Pokhara 21 March with full team and 150 porters.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2445667
Year 1970
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n face

Members

14 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
M. W. Henry Day M 1942 UK Climbing Leader Knutsford, Cheshire, England Captain Details Other expeditions
Gerald F. (Gerry) Owens M 1937 UK Climber Malton, N Yorkshire, England Infantry Training Centre, Royal Marines, Devon (Major) Details Other expeditions
Tim E. F. Taylor M 1942 UK Climber Newnham-On-Severn, Gloucester, England 1st Battalion Royal Green Jackets (Tidworth, Wiltshire) Details Other expeditions
G. Douglas B. Keelan M 1942 UK Climber Thorverton, Devon, England Captain, Infantry Training Centre, Royal Marines Details Other expeditions
Richard A. Summerton M 1945 UK Climber West Wickham, Kent, England Lieutenant, Junior Leader's Regiment, Royal Engineers Details Other expeditions
John (Andy) Anderson M 1944 UK Climber Altringham, Cheshire, England Corporal, Royal Engineers Details Other expeditions
David P. M. Jones M - UK Climber Ewenny, Bridgend, Mid Glamorgan, Wales Flight Lieutenant (retired) Details Other expeditions
Bruce Mackenzie Niven M 1935 UK Leader/Transport Edinburgh, Scotland Gurkha Independent Parachute Company (Major) Details Other expeditions
Purna Bahadur Malla M - Nepal Support Champkot, Gandaki Zone 1st/2nd (KEO) Gurkha Rifles, Gorkha Independant Parachute Co Details Other expeditions
Budhi Bahadur Gurung M - Nepal Support Ghorapani, Gandaki Zone 6th Gorkha Rifles Details Other expeditions
Yudda Bikram Shah M - Nepal Climber Kathmandu Major Details Other expeditions
Bhagirath Narsingh Rana M 1943 Nepal Climber Kathmandu Captain Details Other expeditions
Sonam Girme Sherpa M 1935 Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pertemba Sherpa M 1948 Nepal H-A Worker Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

8 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN170102 HJ Owens, Gerry Annapurna I, 1970 - 30:106-111 (1970) -
ANN170102 AAJ Day, M. W. Henry - - 45:435 (1971) -
ANN170102 AJ Day, Henry Annapurna - North Face Route - 76:89-98 (1971) -
ANN170102 MM - - - 10:6 (Jul 1970) -
ANN170102 MM Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman Annapurna - 58:44-47 (Nov 1977) -
ANN170102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197143501/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-Second-Ascent - - -
ANN170102 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/30/5/annapurna-i-1970/ - - -
ANN170102 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1971_files/AJ%201971%2088-98%20Day%20Annapurna.pdf - - -