Annapurna I | 1970 S Face

A UK expedition to Annapurna I in 1970 via S Face, led by Chris Bonington. Summit reached on 27th May 1970. 18 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2479
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN170101
Peak ID ANN1
Year 1970
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Chris Bonington
Sponsor Mt. Everest Foundation
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 3rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries W Germany, USA
Approach Pokhara->Modi Khola->Annapurna Sanctuary (BC)
Basecamp Date 1970-03-28
Summit Date 1970-05-27
Summit Time 1430
Summit Days 60
Total Days 65
Termination Date 1970-06-01
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8091
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 6
Fixed Rope (m) 5550
Total Members 17
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 12
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites TempBC(28/03,3360m),BC(4420m),C1(02/04,4875m),C2(06/04,5335m),C3(13/04,6125m),C4(23/04,6550m),C5(09/05,6930m),C6(19/05,7315m),Smt(27/05)
Route Notes Bonington, Press conf - 7 June 70 In mountains in general and Himalayas in particular always risk of objective danger; chance of that ice tower collapsing in 2 minutes in 24-hour period tens of thousand to one. Summit success very fine climbing especially as did it without oxygen bad conditions high wind and wind-blown snow; but all Himalayan climbs are team efforts and this one very much so; route forged by all climbers at one time or other and doing climbing at higher standard than any other time in Himalayas; load carriers under greater strain than lead climbers: Estcourt and Boysen burnt themselves out and had no chance to go to summit; very high level of cooperation amongst their team that got us to the top plus Don Whillans and Dougal Haston's final push to the top. Most high-standard climbing by Boysen and Estcourt on ice ridge leading into middle of face; took one month to climb ridge from 20,600 ft high standard climbing. 13,000 ft of fixed rope used - more than any other expedition. Whillans - 7 June 70 It's nice to get down, about as tough as expected; Difficulties were all right, but we had break of bad weather doubts about getting to top because of the weather. If hadn't decided to skip C7 might not have conquered summit; had idea when left C6 but didn't know was feasible. Dougal Haston: I thought it was going to be hard (not to climb that route) and it was tough. Whillans at Machhapuchhare base camp funny looking trekker around; looked out from tent in moonlight and something strong moving around: watched for 1/2 hour (too cold go out); could have been but looked more like monkey type thing. Frost - 5 June 70 Put in fixed ropes essentially on whole face to reascending and carrying loads relatively easy technically, main problem is the breathing and the cold. The leaders had it easier because they were carrying lesser loads. Burke and I spent 5 days fixing rope on rock bend which most technical as for as rock climbing was concerned with Mick doing most of leading and I did the belaying. This of medium difficulty as far as alpine climbing goes. We went off to the left so large part of this climb was on ice fields and gullies. The weakness in the rock band oxygen not up because weakness of same members who got sick (Burke early, Lambert, Chris) plus Estcourt and Boysen weakened by climbing and Sherpas sick and not proficient enough to go above C4. Boysen and Estcourt did great deal carrying while Whillans and Dougal favoured and did little load-carrying and went down to base from rest more times than anyone else - were favoured because going strong and Don has good mountain judgement and good team together whom you couldn't pry apart; this hard on others who didn't enjoy donkey work of load carrying and also wanted enjoyment of route finding (especially Estcourt and Boysen) which meant psychologically had hard work. 2 times I was out in from 1) with Chris on ice ridge just above C3 above 20,000 ft 3) with Mick on rock band. With Chris just above C3 we originally tried push route straight up ice ridge. Shape of ridge had carriers and mushroom shape from with steps in steep places; most difficult pitch I had to lead was up near vertical ice up a steps; plunge ice axe into ice and snow down at angle; had snow picket (piece of angle iron 3 feet long with point at one end) and this I had in other hand. I climbed up section 25 feet nearly vertical and "I made it without felling off" (Chris belaying). Got a good ice axe in and it gives you a handle on the mountain; not whole weight on it; kick points crampons in higher and through up. After we'd moved on up this ice ridge, Don and Dougal came up to C3 and talked us into moving route traversing across to left and not over ridge. Frost left C6 at 4:00 am. Mick's speed of movement in preparations showed not feeling well and he left 4:30. Frost reached top fixed ropes 8:00 am. Tremendously windy up there; all while I'd been climbing great wind; had only mittens and fingers getting cold and feet getting cold. Now at beginning of summit snowfield at 25,000 ft. At maximum went to 25,200 ft and when I got to this point I started to lose my resolve before I'd been moving mechanically up the fixed ropes - view had improved and wanted to take photos, resting and moving up slowly and took 1 hour to decide to take off mittens to take pix; alone without moral support and summit already reached; stayed 3 hours in this area, took some pix (even changing film) and collected some rock specimens; decided at one point to go for top but knee-deep snow and increasing winds. So about 11:00 turned back I was quite tired and when got back to C6 at 12:00 Chris quite relieved to learn I'd got back (Chris at C4 talking to Burke at C6). Burke started at 4:30; quite strong wind blowing down gully and his fingers which had gotten quite cold day before gave him concern again; went only several feet vertically when cold turned him back; out of camp only about 1 hour. Don and Dougal had quite strong winds on their summit day too. Needed 2 pair heavy wool to keep their fingers warm. Don leading whole way for first time; had some difficulty on rock just below summit, didn't stay on summit long because of wind. Too much suffering on these big mountains. I want to keep climbing but this high altitude is another thing (he's quite affected by Clough death and he too now feels he has had enough; that sealed the case as far his coming on another big expedition). Thompson - 4 June 70 Chris, Boysen, Burke, Thompson and Kent reached Pokhara afternoon 3rd June; all rest will reach Pokhara today. Last day on mountain, 3 in C3 on 29th night (Clough, Thompson and Lambert) and packed up and pushed load down steep gully down almost to C2; went down leaving C3 about 8 am. Thompson and Clough picked up polyethylene bundle and pulled it down almost to C2 for 3 Sherpas ex-C1 to collect. Clough and Thompson (ahead of weak Lambert) went on down with only personal gear; just below C2, saw 3 Sherpas coming up towards them: route passes beneath quite a long ice cliff which we were frightened of early in expedition because was over hanging then, but overhanging bit fell off one morning. We heard it go about a month ago. Fortunately no one was there - didn't see a danger point, but quite a way above cliff were some quite large ice pinnacles; one big pinnacle fell from 300m above and struck Clough. "We had just turned down away from the cliff we heard this pinnacle from high above start to come down." By this time Sherpas and Clough and Thompson almost met; "was 3 or 4 paces in front of me and my reaction when I heard the noise I turned round and rushed back few paces and threw myself down at the foot of the ice cliff. Clough had been that few paces further on. Sherpas said he didn't seem to react at all but I think he tried to run away from the slope which is what 3 Sherpas did as well and they just got away from it; it stopped surprisingly short. It was a very big ice avalanche and the whole lot came over this cliff straight over the top of me. All the big blocks of ice had same momentum and landed away from cliff and it was only smaller pieces and powder that fell on me. I was buried by all this by perhaps a foot of it. I thought I had it, all went dark when all avalanche was coming down; then it got light and the noise stopped. I suppose it had gone on for 40 secs then when I got up after it and when I looked where this slope had been below me it was just a mass of blocks of ice. I shouted for Ian to see if he had survived and the Sherpas answered so I knew the Sherpas were all right. Then I started searching through al the debris and I found Ian's body sticking out from under a block of ice: The 3 Sherpas came up; we dug away at the block of ice but it was obvious that Ian was dead and then I sent one the Sherpas up to get Dave Lambert, the doctor, and it was 20 minutes or half hour before he arrived; when he arrived, once he was there, I and one of the Sherpas ran down to base camp to take the news to base camp. On the way to base camp, I went through C1 and sent Sherpas ripped old tent and body wrapped in tent and carried down and manouvered through difficult icefall and reached base in evening. Next morning close to 8 am at base, a grassy hollow and just above it a small cliff and Ian had used this cliff to teach TV team and Sherpas various rock climbing techniques so "we buried him on the grassy slope just at the foot of that crag." Chris said a few words about Ian and Tom Frost said a prayer; porters had made wreath of blue alpine flowers on top of grave. Pasang Kami put white Buddist scarf over body in grave; Sherpas built cairn of stones at head of body with wooden cross standing amongst stones. Sherpas also used pack hammer to cut inscription at bottom of cliff "Ian Clough killed 30 May 1970" and Tibetan inscription. Tom Frost got to C7's intended site. Burke had already turned back after 200-300 feet from C6. Frost got just to top of fixed ropes. Burke's feet getting numb from extreme cold. Tom maybe didn't intend to go to summit but were high winds very cold. Boysen "tremendous long arms, sliding along like a spider" carrying loads up fixed-roped face above C4. Don and Dougal never used oxygen at all. Chris at last used oxygen sometime and carries from C5 to C7 after pleurisy; people had servings of O2 occasionally for we had medical sets at camps, but no one except Chris climbed with oxygen hooked up. Don and Dougal lived for 3 days at C1 on instant porridge mixed with hot water. Kendal Mint Cane (sugar with mint flavouring - really sweet) like drinking distilled water from your car battery Don said). On 28th someone got Frost or Burke to them with more food. "Don and Dougal never touched the stuff; they just used whiskey". We have dead how appetites diminished with altitude, but we especially steady load carriers just ate and ate - Thompson 1) Olives and Austrian smoked cheese 2) bread baked at base camp (1 week old at least) 3) thick onion soup with pork-fat fried croutons 4) fried pork, fried new potatoes and freeze dried peas 5) fruit salad with cream 6) fried Xmas pudding with whiskey 7) coffee Was enough high altitude food for other week provided food could have been gotten to them but for one week couldn't climb up because of snow conditions. 27 May, 8 am (wireless from ASFE) Summit bid still delayed by weather conditions. More snow has fallen in last 2 days then on whole expedition. Today looks clear but there are high winds on the face - Haston and Whillans will again attempt today to get up to site of C7 at 25,300 ft and pitch tent they will then return to camp. Tomorrow intention is for them to make second journey to C7 with food camera and radio and then wait until conditions allow to go go for summit. Frost and Burke to supply C6 from C5 and then possibly attempt 2nd summit bid food on mount enough for 4 or 5 days almost out of base camp. Whole effect is one of delay in return on aircraft Pokhara 7 or 8. Despite Whillans and Haston frostbite is carried on 24 May both are well, hungry but optimistic and happy to sit out. GB Shah, MFA - 12 May 70 Annapurna South Face Expedition May 11 Bonington forced to return to base camp with pleurisy; will have to rest at least 4-5 days. Sirdar Pasang Kami ill with amoebic dysentery which affecting some climbers and local porters. In meantime, Whillans and Haston returned to (base) today to work their way back up to rock band where Burke and Frost are now leading route. It is hoped Burke and Frost will have reached halfway point of very difficult 1500-foot rock band and found site for C6 by the time Whillans and Haston take over from them to lead final assault. On May 11 23,000 ft has been reached, but all morale is high and every effort is being made for next phase of huge climb. JOM Roberts - 8 May 70 Rock band - over 2,000 ft in altitudes. C6 will be on rock band, once route made and ropes fixed, probably one camp will be enough (in middle of band somewhere) or perhaps a camp above ice cliff at very base of band. Minimum of 2 camps above base. Success will now depend on hoped for well before monsoon begins about end of May. ASFE - 8 May 70 5 May C5 established at 22,400 ft by Don Whillans and Dougal Haston. Camp is 350 ft below the rock band which most exacting task for it is hoped to climb the lower part of rock band without oxygen and conserve oxygen for use at C6 and above. Weather is starting to deteriorate with more clouds in the morning and heavy snow in afternoon. Bonington is now resting at base camp after a 15 days spell on the face. Mike Burke, Nick Estcourt and Tom Frost are in support of the lead climbers who today are attempting the ice cliff between C5 and the rock band. Logistically the move of ration and climbing equipment up the mountain is going well; although only half load can be taken above C3 same of the climbers are beginning to feel the effects of prolonged stages above 20,000 ft, but generally morale is high. JOMR - 21 April 70 Left base camp 14th; C3 20,500 ft established and expedition is now stocking camps. Difficult rock band approaching 23,000 ft. Weather normal pattern fine am. snow afternoon. Kent, Pokhara - 31 March Bonington party moving from camp at Machhapuchhare side to base camp proper near head of glacier today. Will establish C1 on region tomorrow. See Kit with Kent and Clough reached Pokhara at 10:00 am today will leave Pokhara for base camp 2 April with 220 porters. All well. From ASFE Temporary BC established at Machhapuchhare site. Still heavy snow, but hope we shall be able to establish permanent base when rear party arrive. Kent - 26 March 70 ASFE Chomoro 25th night met Thompson at Ghandrung on 24th/25th Thompson arrive Pokhara 26 am. Bonington - 18 March 70 About 10,000 ft - face but exact height not really known, so expedition's first job is to survey face and learn heights of such features as head of ice shoulder, beginning of rock band, etc. JOMR to Pokhara 19 March am back by 20th April; not to get on face at all; will leave Pokhara with party on 22nd but many stop in Gurung villages. Bonington - 14 March 70 Similar challenge to Japanese facing; ours more distance at high altitude climbing but theirs at higher altitudes; certainly greatest challenge any of us. Kent - 5 March 70 Boat arriving now Bombay 10-15 March; so advance party of 6 members, 2 Sherpas and TV ITN team of 4 + 100 porters to take heavy local purchase food and kerosene; several tents and same kit coming out by air freight to make this possible. + 1500 lbs by RAF due 16 March party to be leader by deputy leader Don Whillans and Mike Thompson and 2 Sherpas will leave Pokhara 15-16 March with recon party to find suitable base camp site. Main party with 200 porters leave Pokhara 4-5 April. Advance party lead by Chris Bonington to leave Pokhara 21 March (Bonington arrives KTM alone 15th rest arrives KTM 18th (except Clough). Here today: Kelvin Kent, Mike Thompson, Don Whillans, Dave Lambert
Accidents Ian Clough killed by falling serac
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2445674
Year 1970
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s face

Members

18 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Christian John Storey (Chris) Bonington M 1934 UK Leader Bowdon, Cheshire, England Photojournalist and lecturer Details Other expeditions
Donald Desbrow (Don) Whillans M 1933 UK Deputy Leader Rossendale, Lancashire, England Plumber, lecturer & alpinist Details Other expeditions
Jan Anders Martin Boysen M 1941 W Germany Climber Manchester, England Lecturer at College of Further Education Details Other expeditions
Michael (Mick) Burke M 1941 UK Climber London, England Student cameraman Details Other expeditions
Ian Stewart Clough M 1937 UK Climber Glencoe, Argyll, Scotland Director of Glencoe School of Mountaineering Details Other expeditions
Nick Estcourt M 1942 UK Climber Bowdon, Cheshire, England Systems analyst Details Other expeditions
Thomas McCallay (Tom) Frost M 1936 USA Climber Ventura, California Engineer & partner in mountaineering-equipment manufacturing Co. Details Other expeditions
Dougal Haston M 1942 UK Climber Leysin, Vaud, Switzerland Director of International School of Mountaineering, Leysin Details Other expeditions
David Lambert M 1938 UK Exp Doctor Sedgefield, Durham, England Physician Details Other expeditions
Michael (Mike) Thompson M 1937 UK Climber London, England Anthropologist Details Other expeditions
Kelvin B. Kent M 1939 UK BC Manager Jersey, Channal Island Serving officer in Royal Corps of Signals Details Other expeditions
Alan Hankinson M 1926 UK TV Crew London, England Television editor/director Details Other expeditions
John Edwards M 1936 UK TV Crew - Television reporter/director Details Other expeditions
Jonathan Lane M 1937 UK TV Crew London, England Cameraman Details Other expeditions
John Soldini M 1924 UK TV Crew London, England Sound recordist Details Other expeditions
Pasang Kami Sherpa M 1938 Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Frank Jackson M - UK Climber London, England - Details Other expeditions
Robin Terrey M - UK Climber London, England - Details Other expeditions

References

13 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN170101 HJ Bonington, Christian The South Face of Annapurna I, 1970 - 30:112-126 (1970) -
ANN170101 AAJ Frost, Tom Annapurna South Face - 45:229-233 (1971) -
ANN170101 AJ Bonington, Chris Annapurna South Face - 76:19-34 (1971) -
ANN170101 - Bonington, Chris Annapurna South Face Casell, London - B460
ANN170101 MM - - - 10:6 (Jul 1970) -
ANN170101 MM Whillans, Don Annapurna South Face - 12:14-24 (Nov 1970) -
ANN170101 MM Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman Annapurna - 58:44-47 (Nov 1977) -
ANN170101 MM - - - 5:5 (Sep 1969) -
ANN170101 MM - Annapurna Briefing - 8:28-35 (Mar 1970) -
ANN170101 - Haston, Dougal In High Places Macmillan, New York - H132
ANN170101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197122900/Annapurna-South-Face - - -
ANN170101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/30/6/the-south-face-of-annapurna-1-1970/ - - -
ANN170101 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1971_files/AJ%201971%2018-33%20Bonington%20Annapurna.pdf - - -