Annapurna I | 2010 N Face via different lines above C4

A Poland expedition to Annapurna I in 2010 via N Face via different lines above C4, led by Piotr Pustelnik. Summit reached on 17th April 2010. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 6747
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN110108
Peak ID ANN1
Year 2010
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face via different lines above C4
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Poland
Leaders Piotr Pustelnik
Sponsor International Expedition to Pumori & Annapurna I
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 51st,52nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Portugal, Romania, Russia, Slovakia, Spain
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2010-04-10
Summit Date 2010-04-17
Summit Time 1330
Summit Days 7
Total Days 21
Termination Date 2010-05-01
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8091
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 7
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent True
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Pumori (PUMO-101-03)
Campsites BC(10/04,4200m),C1(5200m),C2(5600m),C3(6400m),C4(6970m),Smt(17,27/04)
Route Notes Pustelnik described this group as one expedition composed of five teams. Their members were: 1. Joao Garcia 2. Ms. Kinga Baranowska and Horia Colibasanu 3. Sergei Bogomolov and Evgeni Vinogradski 4. Peter Hamor and Piotr Pustelnik 5. Jorge Egocheaga and Martin Ramos The first four teams arrived at Annapurna I BC on 10 April [after acclimatizing on Pumori]. The fifth team, the Spaniards, Egocheaga and Ramos, who had not acclimatized on Pumori, had arrived separately on 28 March. The teams moved with other teams sometimes, separately at other times, and a members of one team did not always move with the other members. All of them didn't even follow the same line above 7950m. Joao Garcia was a fast climber and, spurred on by his ambition to reach his 14th 8000m summit, quickly moved ahead of all the others. He had arrived at BC with most of the others on 10 April. He never slept in C1 or C2. He made a deposit of supplies at 5600m, the site for C2, on the 13th from BC and returned to BC. On the 15th, with weather expected to remain good to the 17th, Garcia left BC at 6:00am, climbed to C2 site, picked up his cache, went on to 6400m and at 6:00 pm made his first high altitude camp there, one hour below where Miss Pasaban's Spaniards had pitched their C3. Without any Sherpa helping to carry his load, he used ropes fixed by Pasaban's team. On the 16th Garcia left C3 at 8:00 am, met Pasaban's members and Sherpas halfway to C4 and arrived at C4 with them at 4:00 pm. On 17 April, he left C4 for the top at 4:20 am with the four members and three Sherpas of Pasaban's team. These eight climbers reached the summit within five minutes of each other around 1:30 pm. Pasaban had her 13th 8000er and Garcia his 14th. They all returned to C4 at 6 pm. Garcia went down on the 18th to C2, where he spent the night with Hamor and Pustelnik; they helped him carry his loads to BC on the 19th, and he left BC on the 22nd for Pokhara by helicopter and flew by scheduled flight the same day to Kathmandu. The other members of the expedition were well behind Garcia and made their summit bids ten days after his. Pustelnik and Hamor stayed together, and sometime moved with the others. They occupied C1 on 13 April, and according to Garcia, Pustelnik slipped going down from C1 and fell on his ribs but was unhurt. Hamor and Pustelnik went to C2 on the 24th, moved to C3 the next day and to C4 on the 26th. Finally they left C4 on the 27th for the top with all the other members (except, of course, Garcia, who had already summited) between 2:00 and 2:30 am. Not everyone used the same line from here to the summit; Pustelnik, who started using oxygen from C4, and Hamor followed the Pasaban route and were on top at 1:45 pm. Hamor returned to C4 at 5:00 pm while Pustelnik was an hour behind him and switched off the oxygen when he reached camp. They went down to C2 on the 28th and to BC on the 29th. Egocheaga and Ramos never slept in C1 or C2 but they did some acclimatization climbing on Annapurna I before joining the others to stay in C3 on 25 April and in C4 on the 26th. On the 27th Colibasanu joined them in leaving C4 at 2:30 am and traversing eastward onto the East Ridge at 7950m and following the ridge to the top, but his teammate, Kinga Baranowska, went for the top with Hamor and Pustelnik via the Pasaban route. Egocheaga, Ramos and Colisbasanu left C4 at 2:30 am. Egocheaga and Ramos climbed very fast and got ahead of Colisbasanu, but Colisbasanu managed to catch up with them at about 9:30 am and they summited together at 11:40 am, well ahead of the others. The three climbers descended the East Ridge to 7950m, then down the face to 7450m and back onto the Pasaban route. Egocheaga and Ramos were back in C4 at 1:30 pm and Colibasanu joined him there at 2:00 pm, at about the same time as others were reaching the top. Colisbasanu stayed on in C4 to help in the effort to rescue a Spaniard, Tolo Calafat, a member of Carlos Pauner's expedition. He was not found (see report on Pauner's team), despite the flight of a helicopter during the search for him. Colibasanu was delivered to BC on the 29th by this helicopter, left BC on the 30th or 31st and returned to Kathmandu on 7 May. Ms Baranowska, who went for the top with Hamor and Pustelnik via the Pasaban route, had not slept in C1, but moved up from C2 on the 24th, C3 on the 25th, C4 on the 26th, summited at 2:00 pm on the 27th and went back to C4 with Pustelnik at 6:00 pm. She descended to C1 on the 28th and to BC on the 29th. Bogomolov and Vinogradski stayed together through-out almost all of their climb except on the summit day. They occupied C1 on the 12 April and C2 on the 13th. They occupied C3 for the first time on the 25th at the same time as the others. Then their movements are uncertain, and with the very limited capability in English, the other members could only report where they were seen and when. In the push for the summit, Bogomolov was seen by Pustelnik moving up behind the Spanish group led by Carlos Pauner, who summited at 4:00 pm, who in turn had summited after Miss Oh's Korean party. Bogomolov was again seen descending between the Pauner and Oh teams. He apparently had made a short traverse diagonally on the left to the East Ridge and stayed on the ridge for the very last part of his ascent to the top. Colibasanu saw him with the mainstream of summiters going up to 7000m, but did not see him again. When he started up the East Ridge at about 10 am, Colibasanu saw Vinogradski coming up alone at about 7650m, and met him at 7950m at about 12:20 pm as Vinogradski was going up and he, Egocheaga and Ramos were descending from the summit. Colibasanu met him once more at 12:30 pm; Vinogradski was descending at about 100m vertical meters (200 linear meters) below the summit. Asked whether he had gotten to the top, Vinogradski answered that the summit was not important; he had turned back because his nose was freezing, a strange reply because when a man's nose is freezing, he rubs it vigorously, but Vinogradski was not rubbing his. Colibasanu believes Vinogradski was developing cerebral edema, a diagnosis reinforced when he was found digging in the snow for his tent before getting to C4 at 4:00 pm or a bit later. He had actually lain outside his tent for awhile, explaining that it was full of people (it was, in fact, empty). He claimed he had summited at 2:00 pm, but Barnowska, who was there at 2:00 pm, did not see him. Carlos Pauner, the Spanish leader whose team also summited on the 27th, "saw Evgeny trying to follow Jorje (Egocheaga) and Martin (Ramos) by the ridge, but he could not and they help him to go down 200 meters before summit, sure." Bogomolov arrived in C4 at 7 pm or so, and next morning he was going up to look for his jumar. He fell during this ten minute long search but wasn't hurt; he too appeared to be suffering from cerebral edema. He said he had gotten to the summit at 4:00 pm, but according to Pauner, who summited at 4:00 pm, "he went just behind me all route up to begin of corridor (final couloir below summit). There, it was the last time I saw him. I didn't see him at summit and I did not cross him going down, so I don't know what he did exactly." The two Russians were given oxygen during the night of 27-28 April from the bottle Pustelnik had used to reach the summit; there was only one bottle available, so the oxygen was administered to them alternatively that night in C4. They descended to C2 on the 28th and BC on the 29th. They flew to Kathmandu by the helicopter that brought back most of the expedition's members on the 1st of may and left Nepal on the 3rd. Oxygen was used by Pustelnik from C4 to top only. It was given to Bogomolov and Vinogradski in C4 during the night of 27-28 April.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Cho Oyu Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2460284
Year 2010
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n face via different lines above c4

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kinga Baranowska F 1975 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Alpinist & speaker Details Other expeditions
Sergei Bogomolov M 1951 Russia Climber Saratov, Russia Alpinist & small businessman Details Other expeditions
Horia Dan Colibasanu M 1977 Romania Climber Timisoara, Romania Dentist Details Other expeditions
Joao Jose Silva Abranches Garcia M 1967 Portugal Climber Alfragide, Amadora, Portugal Alpinist & motivational speaker Details Other expeditions
Peter Hamor M 1964 Slovakia Climber Poprad, Slovakia Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Piotr Czeslaw Pustelnik M 1951 Poland Leader Lodz, Poland Teacher Details Other expeditions
Evgeni Vinogradski M 1946 Russia Climber Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Physician Details Other expeditions
Jorge Egocheaga Rodriguez M 1968 Spain Climber Oviedo, Asturias, Spain Physician Details Other expeditions
Martin Ramos Garcia M 1966 Spain Climber Zamora City, Zamora, Spain Municipal official Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.