Annapurna I | 2008 S Face-E Ridge

A Russia expedition to Annapurna I in 2008 via S Face-E Ridge, led by Sergei Bogomolov. Summit reached on 19th May 2008. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 5947
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN108106
Peak ID ANN1
Year 2008
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face-E Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Russia
Leaders Sergei Bogomolov
Sponsor Annapurna South Face Expedition 2008
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 49th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Phedi
Basecamp Date 2008-04-09
Summit Date 2008-05-19
Summit Time 1230
Summit Days 40
Total Days 19
Termination Date 2008-04-28
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8091
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 2000
Total Members 8
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Annapurna I East Smt (ANNE-081-01)
Campsites BC(09/04,4130m),C1(14/04,5000m),C2(16/04,5800m),C3(26/04,6800m),C4(06/05,7500m),C5(18/05,7800m),Smt(19/05)
Route Notes BC arrival - Bogomolov, Lutokhin and Sinev by helicopter. Russian Annapurna South Face Expedition 2008 Spring - Sergei Bogomolov Bogomolov and Bolotov left C4 (7700m) at 4 am on 7 May in bad weather conditions. Bogomolov felt that his fingers started getting cold and turned around to C4 from 7700m. Bolotov continued and reached East Summit at 11 am, stayed there for about 10 minutes and descended to C4 at 3 pm. Due to the bad weather conditions and worn out of energy of members, Bogomolov, Lutokhin and Sinev left BC on 13 May by helicopter to Kathmandu. They will leave on 15 May. Four members Frolenko, Mamedov, Roshkov, Ryhenko left BC on 28 April and left Kathmandu on 5 May. Bolotov stayed back at BC to try for the summit. Bolotov, Inaki Ochoa and Horia Colibasanu started together from C5 at 4 am on 19 May for their summit bid. Bolotov reached summit at 12:30 pm, stayed on summit for 10-15 minutes and descended to C5 at 6:45 pm. Snow conditions way up were knee deep. Ochoa and Colibasanu were not there. Bolotov does not know from where and when the two companions turned around as he was on lead. On 20 May Bolotov reached C4 at 10 am and found Ochoa very sick and Colibasanu helping him. Bolotov left C4 to make trail for Swiss climber Ueli Steck who was suppose to bring medicines for Ochoa. Bolotov then went down to C2 on 22 May and stayed there. On 23 May, Bolotov left for C3 and on the way up he got the news that Ochoa was dead then he went down to BC. On 26 May Bolotov left BC on helicopter to Pokhara and plane to Kathmandu. Leaving Kathmandu on 27 May. Bolotov on his summit bit did not use C1, put C2 at 5900m and C4 at 7400m. Frolenko climbed up to 6200m around 16 April. Lutokhin went up to 7700m on 7 May. Mamedov's high point was about 5600m on 15 April. Roshkov and Ryzhenko were at C2 on 16 April. Sinev's highest point was 7700m on 8 May. Left BC: 4 members on 28 April 3 members on 13 May Email from Alexei Bolotov to Rodrigo Granzatto Peron (researcher from Brazil) - 2 Feb 2009 Bolotov confirms that he did not pass over the summits of Annapurna East and Annapurna Middle on his way to the summit of Annapurna I, but avoided the ridge for a more direct route to the summit. Email from Sergei Bogomolov to Rodrigo Granzatto Peron (researcher from Brazil) - Feb 2009 Hello Rodrigo Sorry, you have written on my old e-mail. I it did not look for a long time. I give you exhaustive answers. 1 - On Annapurna 2008 you assaulted the mountain with Alexey Bolotov. He summited Annapurna East (8026m). Why did you not proceed with him to Annapurna East? On May, 7th we with Alexey left from C6 at 4.00 for the purpose of achievement Ännapurna I. At 8:00 we have reached a point 1. Have understood that to Ännapurna I very far, therefore have decided to return back to spend the night in C6, next day to take tent and to put C7 in a point 2. Alexey has expressed desire to make investigation and to rise above towards top. I have refused, it was necessary to save forces (we were got tired enough) and Ännapurna East for me do not aim. As a result Alexey in 7 hours was at top. 2 - Your idea was to traverse the entire east ridge (Annapurna East, Annapurna Central and Annapurna I), like the Loretan-Joos route of 1984, OR your idea was to avoid the ridge and proceed directly to Annapurna I (8091m), like the Isurrategi-Lafaille Route of 2002? We knew, that it is necessary to go through Annapurna East, but felt, that it is possible to go much more low. For this purpose Alexey also has gone on investigation. And our way more logical, it is direct on Ännapurna I. 3 - Bolotov stayed on BC and tried Annapurna again some days later. Why did you decided not to stay and returned to Russia? On May, 7th I have been freezed, at me the finger on the left hand was black. The breast after casual falling also was ill. I was very got tired. Therefore I have called sanitary flight and on May, 13th have departed to Katmandu together with Lutohin and Sinev. At Alexey the start from Katmandu was on May 20th and he has decided to be still in BC. And there Inaki and Horia him have persuaded once again to descend. a) You summited Shishapangma Central (8015m) on 16 May 2002 with Ershova and Belous through the regular route. This was just to acclimatise or you were guiding them? Why did you not traverse the ridge to the main summit Shishapangma I (8027m) on that occasion? I had an arrangement with Vladimir Belous, that we with it will pass on a crest with Shishapangma Central to Shishapangma I. Now when he has seen this narrow and abrupt crest Vladimir has refused. I have been disappointed and began to go down downwards. And then has seen, that there is a simple and logical transition to East crest from C3. I have suggested Oleynik to descend on this route. b) Next you summited Shishapangma I (8027m) on 24 May 2002 with Oleynik. Did you climbed a new route? How was this route? Do you have a picture with the route drawn for me to see? Look a photo Regards Sergey
Accidents Minor frostbite in finger tips (right hand) of Bogomolov
Achievement -
Agency Cho Oyu Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2459584
Year 2008
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face-e ridge

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Sergei Bogomolov M 1951 Russia Leader Saratov, Russia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Alexei Bolotov M 1963 Russia Climber Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Metallurgical engineer Details Other expeditions
Dmitri Frolenko M 1964 Russia Climber Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Outdoor equipment shop manager Details Other expeditions
Alexandr Lutokhin M 1962 Russia Climber Chernogolovka, Moscow, Russia Electronic control systems manufacturer Details Other expeditions
Emil Mamedov M 1979 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Ilya Roshkov M 1962 Russia Climber Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Pharmacy company owner Details Other expeditions
Arkadiy Ryzhenko M 1972 Russia Climber Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Consumer health advocate Details Other expeditions
Dmitri Sinev M 1972 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Germologist Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.