Annapurna I | 2005 S Face (Bonington route mostly)

A Poland expedition to Annapurna I in 2005 via S Face (Bonington route mostly), led by Piotr Pustelnik. Summit reached on 6th May 2005. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4839
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN105105
Peak ID ANN1
Year 2005
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face (Bonington route mostly)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Poland
Leaders Piotr Pustelnik
Sponsor Annapurna South Face Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Slovakia
Approach Bus to Nayapul; up Modi Khola to S Annapurna Glacier
Basecamp Date 2005-03-31
Summit Date 2005-05-06
Summit Time -
Summit Days 36
Total Days 51
Termination Date 2005-05-21
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7400m due to snow and tiredness
High Point (m) 7400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 2600
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(31/03,4200m),ABC(04/04,4950m),C1(05/04,6100m),C2(05/05,6950m),xxx(06/05,7400m)
Route Notes BC at moraine right side of Annapurna Glacier ABC at bottom of South Face (6 hours from BC) C1 at South Face C2 at South Face High point on South Face. Between 1 May and 5 May down to ABC, up to C1, fixing route to C2 and down to C1 and up and down between C1 and C2. Occupied C2 on 5 May. Had frequent light snowfall which avalanched but only "dust" avalanches causing no harm. Had two heavy snowfalls dumping 40-70 cm of snow and at end of expedition (10-15 May) big snow blocks avalanched at night and none touched camp. C2 established 5 May by Miotk, Morawski and Pustelnik. 6 May started fixing route to C3: got to 7400m where at the "The Cracks" where rocks overhang and rope absolutely necessary. 7 May down to ABC to rest. Up from BC 10 May by all 4 climbing members and both Sherpas, Nawang Tenzing and Rita Dorje to ABC. From ABC 11 May 3 Poles and 2 Sherpas to C1. 12th May C1 to C2 and 13th up from C2 fixing ropes all day and half of the night and got to high point at 11:00 pm above the cracks but tired climber Morawski could find no place to camp and others below him left all C3 gear where they were 70m below line. All down to C2. No avalanching on cracks area. 14th May might heavy snowfall while in C2. 15th Miotk down to BC (Miotk having altitude problem). 16th Morawski and Pustelnik up from C2 but only to 7100m where Pustelnik got tired and since were in the Crack and no way could not continue above and down to C1 and now climb abandoned; only one member strong enough now to go on climbing. Miotk left expedition on 8 May with symptoms of incipient altitude sickness. Wasmowski stayed in BC for entire climb except for one trip to ABC to acclimatize. Sherpas: Nawang Tenzing, 44 years old, Phortse Rita Dorje, 27, Phortse Email from Marcin Miotk - 9 July 2005 Piotr Pustelnik told me that you had left his team before the climb was finished because you were getting altitude problems after having pitched Camp 2 with him and another teammate at 6950m on 5 May. "I respect Piotr as a climber very much, but this is simply not true. I delayed my Everest (originally I was going to move from Annapurna to Everest on around May 5), but finally I left Annapurna BC at May 18 when the expedition was finished. I wanted to help Piotr as much as I can but we did not manage to summit. We (me, Piotr Pustelnik, Piotr Morawski and our Sherpa Rita) made a summit push on May 15. It was planned for two days. On May 15 we planned to put a tent at 7300m and next day to summit. But on May 15 at 7300m we could not find a platform in the night and we came back to C4 at 6900m after 15 hours of hard climb. I was exhausted and I said via walkie-talkie to our doctor that I'm out of power and I will descend to BC on May 17. But Piotr wanted to make summit push once again. In my opinion it was not good decision. We were too tired and it is not practice to make one push after another at 8000m level. But they (Piotr Pustelnik and Piotr Morawski) started their second summit push on May 17. (At the same time I was descending to BC). Being Piotr in my opinion got summit fever and was focused only on summit not on teammates health. Finally Piotrs they gave up very quick on their second "summit push" and descended to Camp at the same day. Piotr P. was very disappointed about this failure. I was a good candidate and in Piotr's dispatches I was not even mentioned as part of summit push. Piotr Morawski's dispatches on summit push were very critized in Poland as he was well said that me and Sherpa Rita gave up and this was a reason why expedition failed. For me the real summit push was on May 15, not May 17. Piotr was saying that only he and Piotr Morawski made summit push. Not me. I'm the person who is acting and I want not to argue on his dispatches. To sum up if he told that I have altitude problems and I left before expedition finished is simply a lie (really to sorry to say that - but its true). In the morning on May 18 I started my descent to Pokhara were I get May 19th afternoon. On May 20th I arranged all document with Asian Trekking and next day I was in Zangmu and following day, May 22, in Everest BC at 5000m. My first summit push I started on May 29 together with Hans Goger and Gerfried Goeschl. But on June 1 after night with Austrians at 7900m I decided to get back to ABC as the wind was in my opinion too strong. Afternoon I was in ABC (Austrians decided to climb further and finally they summited). I feel so good that on May 3 I decided to try once more. I went directly to C2 totally alone, next day alone to C3 and finally on May 5 I summited totally alone. Tent I used from first summit push and in C3 at 8300m I used a remainings from Indian Army tent (used also by Austrians). Tent is to much to say - just a roof to protect from wind."
Accidents Strba gastrointestinal problems; Miotk altitude problem
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2458427
Year 2005
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face (bonington route mostly)

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Marcin Jan Miotk M 1973 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Financial manager for Proctor and Gamble Details Other expeditions
Piotr Jerzy Morawski M 1976 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland High school teacher of physics and chemistry Details Other expeditions
Piotr Czeslaw Pustelnik M 1951 Poland Leader Lodz, Poland Teacher Details Other expeditions
Vladimir (Vlado) Strba M 1968 Slovakia Climber Holic, Slovakia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Aleksander Wasmowski M 1978 Poland Exp Doctor Poznan, Poland Physician Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.