Annapurna I | 2004 N Face (French route)

A Germany expedition to Annapurna I in 2004 via N Face (French route), led by Ralf Dujmovits. Summit reached on 28th May 2004. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4537
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN104102
Peak ID ANN1
Year 2004
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face (French route)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Germany
Leaders Ralf Dujmovits
Sponsor International Annapurna Expedition 2004
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 42nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Austria, Italy, Japan, Kazakhstan, Russia
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2004-05-15
Summit Date 2004-05-28
Summit Time 1530
Summit Days 13
Total Days 17
Termination Date 2004-06-01
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8091
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 250
Total Members 7
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Korshunov climbed Annapurna Middle Summit by mistake (ANNM-041-01); Moro, Urubko and Korshunov to Baruntse; other 3 to Xixabangma (no highest summits)
Campsites BC(15/05,4150m),Biv1(22/05,4900m),Biv2(23/05,5650m),Biv3(26/05,6700m),Biv4(27/05,7150m),Smt(28/05);Middle Smt by Korshunov(28/05)
Route Notes BC at below normal site because normal site covered by big earth avalanche Biv 1 at normal site Biv 2 at normal site. Dujmovits, Kaltenbrunner and Takeuchi arrived BC 21 May. 23rd up from BC towards C1 and now Korshunov joined them and reached C1 to sleep. 23rd Moro and Ubrubko to C2. 24th Dujmovits and 3 to C2 and spent night there with Moro and Ubrubko; after that snowfall. 25th Dujmovits, Kaltenbrunner, Takeuchi went up to 6300m fixing 150m in original French route (didn't go to Dutch Rib which doesn't exist any longer) and slept in C2. 25th Moro and Urubko down to BC while Korshunov stayed in C2. 26th all in C2 went to C3. 27th Dujmovits and 2 others left C4 at 5:00 am; Korshunov convinced route led up couloir to saddle between East and Middle Summit and went into couloir alone, while Dujmovits went on normal route towards Middle Summit but traversed face to highest summit; up south (150-180m high) couloir to top at 3:30 pm and back to C4 7:00 pm. Korshunov went to Middle Summit and to C4 at 6:00 pm, having realized his route was wrong to main summit. 28th Moro and Urubko to C3. 29th all down to C2 except Moro and Urubko who climbed to C4 and left C4 8:00 pm for night ascent in order to be descending in daylight to look for Boris who had been very slow descending and without a walkie-talkie. Urubko to top at 1:30 am 30th while Moro had turned back at about 7800m (with stomach touble and too cold) to C4. Denis joined Moro at 3:00 am. 6:00 am they went down to BC and so did all others. Most of climb was steep ice climbing. "Entire route very dangerous - I would never return." Expedition had no fixed camps but moved their tents as they ascended and descended. Abele Blanc had gone to BC before all other members, but left without doing any climbing because he saw how dangerous the route was.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Thamserku Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2458083
Year 2004
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face (french route)

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Abele Blanc M 1954 Italy Climber Aymavilles, Aosta, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ralf Dujmovits M 1961 Germany Leader Buehlertal, Baden-Wuerttemberg, Germany Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner F 1970 Austria Climber Buehlertal, Baden-Wuerttemberg, Germany Nurse & professional alpinist Details Other expeditions
Boris Korshunov M 1935 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Simone Moro M 1967 Italy Climber Bergamo, Italy Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Hirotaka Takeuchi M 1971 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Sports shop salesman Details Other expeditions
Denis Viktorovich Urubko M 1973 Kazakhstan Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Military officer & alpinist Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN104102 CLIM - - - 5:86-87 (Jul 2005) -
ANN104102 - - http://www.russianclimb.com/baruntse_annapurna/bar_ann_en.html - - -
ANN104102 - - http://www.amical.de - - -