Yasa Thak | 2022 W Face-SW Ridge (up), E Ridge (down)

A Slovenia expedition to Yasa Thak in 2022 via W Face-SW Ridge (up), E Ridge (down), led by Matija Volontar. Summit reached on 24th October 2022. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 11577
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID YASA22301
Peak ID YASA
Year 2022
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face-SW Ridge (up), E Ridge (down)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Slovenia
Leaders Matija Volontar
Sponsor Matija Yasa Thak Expedition 2022
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 3rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Jeep to Bupsa, trekked to Thengpo (4330m) via Namche and Thame
Basecamp Date 2022-10-10
Summit Date 2022-10-24
Summit Time 1500
Summit Days 14
Total Days 19
Termination Date 2022-10-29
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6141
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(10/10,4330m),ABC(23/10,5300m),Smt(24/10)
Route Notes Approach: Jeep to Bupsa (below Lukla), trekked to Thengpo via Namche and Thame. BC 10/10 4330m at Thengpo Lodge ABC 23/10 5300m at top of rock passage below W Face Smt 24/10 by all members. Original plan was to climb South Ridge of Tengi Ragi Tau. While acclimatizing in the vicinity they saw the West Face of Pomlaca and spotted a potential and beautiful line and decided to give this a try instead. West Face up, East Ridge down. Walked 4 hours from Thengpo Lodge towards Tashi Lapcha Pass. ABC located on top of a rock passage at a snow plateau. On summit day they set off from ABC at 6 am. They first crossed the glacier and bergschrund to get to the face. First part through the West Face, then along SW Ridge to the summit. W Face 70°-80° steep the whole time. Climbing was harder than expected. First three pitches after bergschrund were the most technical and difficult. Mixed climbing. Before exit to SW Ridge there was another technical rock section about Grade 4-5. SW Ridge a bit easier, but first part also quite technical. On the summit at 3 pm. Weather was good, but cold. Stayed on summit around 30 minutes, sunny on the top. Descent via East Ridge. They had acclimatized on the lower East Ridge before and knew parts of the descent. First part of descent rather easy to down climb. Then more difficult, rappel one pitch. Back to the lodges at Thengpo at 8 pm. Left BC on 29/10 and trekked back to Lukla and flight to Ramechap. Route name: Screaming Barfies Climbing route: West face-SW Ridge up, East Ridge down Oxygen: Not taken, not used. Records: (Team claims FA but climbed before in 2003 by Czech?)
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Dream Himalaya Adventures
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2465094
Year 2022
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face-sw ridge (up), e ridge (down)

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Matija Volontar M 1995 Slovenia Leader Mojstrana, Slovenia Computer science engineer & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Bor Levicnik M 2000 Slovenia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia Student Details Other expeditions
Ziga Orazem M 1991 Slovenia Climber Kamnik, Slovenia Self-employed Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
YASA22301 - - https://explorersweb.com/first-ascent-on-pomlaca-interview-with-matija-volontar/ - - -
YASA22301 AAJ Volontar, Matija Tengi Ragi Tau Southeast, West Face and Southwest Ridge, Screaming Barfies - 97:334 (2023) -
YASA22301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216487 - - -