Yalung Kang | 1988 SE Couloir (French 1984 Autumn rte)
A Spain expedition to Yalung Kang in 1988 via SE Couloir (French 1984 Autumn rte), led by Jesus Mari Bereziartua Extaniz. Summit reached on 11th October 1988. 10 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 794 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | YALU88301 |
| Peak ID | YALU |
| Year | 1988 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SE Couloir (French 1984 Autumn rte) |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Spain |
| Leaders | Jesus Mari Bereziartua Extaniz |
| Sponsor | Azpeitia 1988 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 13th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1988-09-11 |
| Summit Date | 1988-10-11 |
| Summit Time | 1300 |
| Summit Days | 30 |
| Total Days | 31 |
| Termination Date | 1988-10-12 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8505 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 8 |
| Summit Members | 1 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 2 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(11/09,5300m),C1(23/09,6100m),C2(26/09,6800m),C3(02/10,7200m),C4(04/10,7800m),Smt(11/10) |
| Route Notes | BC at glacier northwest of Talung and southeast of point 5520m on Yoshino map C4 below couloir which climbed. After making C4, bad weather (snow and strong wind) so all down to BC. 2 days in BC, then 8th Oct to C1, 5 members and 2 Sherpas. 9th Oct 1st team to C4 and 2nd team to C3. 11th Oct 3 members and 2 Sherpas towards summit in strong cold wind (-25 degrees at C4). Sherpas turned back at 8100m and at 8300m a member hit by falling stone which penetrated his hat and down to C4 with a member to help him. Iriarte was ahead and unaware of Bereziartua's accident so carried on to summit, which reached at 1 pm. On 11th Urbieta arrived at C4 while others of 2nd team stayed in C3; climb finished now. Others including Sherpas not in good condition, leader injured and weather not so good; many falling stones in couloir, route not technically difficult and safe to C4. 22 days to reach BC from Dharan because of earthquake damage to road and trails; 5 days to KTM from BC. |
| Accidents | Leader hit by falling stone which left him unconscious 10 minutes |
| Achievement | 1st Spaniards (Basque) to summit |
| Agency | Kunga |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2451144 |
| Year | 1988 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | se couloir (french 1984 autumn rte) |
Members
10 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pedro Maria (Pello) Aranburu Oiarizabal | M | 1968 | Spain | Climber | Azpeitia, Guipuzcoa, Spain | Secondary school student | Details Other expeditions |
| Josu Arrieta Azpiazu | M | 1955 | Spain | Climber | Azpeitia, Guipuzcoa, Spain | Electronics technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Jesus Maria (Josu) Bereziartua Etxaniz | M | 1960 | Spain | Leader | Azpeitia, Guipuzcoa, Spain | Bar owner | Details Other expeditions |
| Pako Uriarte Arruti | M | 1958 | Spain | Climber | Azpeitia, Guipuzcoa, Spain | Worker, metal furniture factory | Details Other expeditions |
| Benantxio Irureta Aguirre | M | 1953 | Spain | Climber | Azpeitia, Guipuzcoa, Spain | Electrician | Details Other expeditions |
| Francisco Javier Maiz Gastesi | M | 1959 | Spain | Climber | Azpeitia, Guipuzcoa, Spain | Woodworker | Details Other expeditions |
| Rosa Maria Segues Arregi | F | 1956 | Spain | BC Manager | Azpeitia, Guipuzcoa, Spain | Ex-teacher, studing video | Details Other expeditions |
| Jose-Takolo Urbieta Cendoya | M | 1941 | Spain | Climber | Azpeitia, Guipuzcoa, Spain | Mechanic | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Phuri Sherpa | M | 1956 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Sallung (Beni), Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Phurba Kitar Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| YALU88301 | AAJ | Bereciartua, Jesus Mari | - | - | 63:188 (1989) | - |
| YALU88301 | MM | - | - | - | 125:12 (Jan 1989) | - |
| YALU88301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198918802/Asia-Nepal-Yalungkang | - | - | - |