Yalung Kang | 1988 SE Couloir (French 1984 Autumn rte)

A Spain expedition to Yalung Kang in 1988 via SE Couloir (French 1984 Autumn rte), led by Jesus Mari Bereziartua Extaniz. Summit reached on 11th October 1988. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 794
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID YALU88301
Peak ID YALU
Year 1988
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Couloir (French 1984 Autumn rte)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Jesus Mari Bereziartua Extaniz
Sponsor Azpeitia 1988
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 13th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1988-09-11
Summit Date 1988-10-11
Summit Time 1300
Summit Days 30
Total Days 31
Termination Date 1988-10-12
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8505
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(11/09,5300m),C1(23/09,6100m),C2(26/09,6800m),C3(02/10,7200m),C4(04/10,7800m),Smt(11/10)
Route Notes BC at glacier northwest of Talung and southeast of point 5520m on Yoshino map C4 below couloir which climbed. After making C4, bad weather (snow and strong wind) so all down to BC. 2 days in BC, then 8th Oct to C1, 5 members and 2 Sherpas. 9th Oct 1st team to C4 and 2nd team to C3. 11th Oct 3 members and 2 Sherpas towards summit in strong cold wind (-25 degrees at C4). Sherpas turned back at 8100m and at 8300m a member hit by falling stone which penetrated his hat and down to C4 with a member to help him. Iriarte was ahead and unaware of Bereziartua's accident so carried on to summit, which reached at 1 pm. On 11th Urbieta arrived at C4 while others of 2nd team stayed in C3; climb finished now. Others including Sherpas not in good condition, leader injured and weather not so good; many falling stones in couloir, route not technically difficult and safe to C4. 22 days to reach BC from Dharan because of earthquake damage to road and trails; 5 days to KTM from BC.
Accidents Leader hit by falling stone which left him unconscious 10 minutes
Achievement 1st Spaniards (Basque) to summit
Agency Kunga
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451144
Year 1988
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se couloir (french 1984 autumn rte)

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Pedro Maria (Pello) Aranburu Oiarizabal M 1968 Spain Climber Azpeitia, Guipuzcoa, Spain Secondary school student Details Other expeditions
Josu Arrieta Azpiazu M 1955 Spain Climber Azpeitia, Guipuzcoa, Spain Electronics technician Details Other expeditions
Jesus Maria (Josu) Bereziartua Etxaniz M 1960 Spain Leader Azpeitia, Guipuzcoa, Spain Bar owner Details Other expeditions
Pako Uriarte Arruti M 1958 Spain Climber Azpeitia, Guipuzcoa, Spain Worker, metal furniture factory Details Other expeditions
Benantxio Irureta Aguirre M 1953 Spain Climber Azpeitia, Guipuzcoa, Spain Electrician Details Other expeditions
Francisco Javier Maiz Gastesi M 1959 Spain Climber Azpeitia, Guipuzcoa, Spain Woodworker Details Other expeditions
Rosa Maria Segues Arregi F 1956 Spain BC Manager Azpeitia, Guipuzcoa, Spain Ex-teacher, studing video Details Other expeditions
Jose-Takolo Urbieta Cendoya M 1941 Spain Climber Azpeitia, Guipuzcoa, Spain Mechanic Details Other expeditions
Ang Phuri Sherpa M 1956 Nepal H-A Worker Sallung (Beni), Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Phurba Kitar Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
YALU88301 AAJ Bereciartua, Jesus Mari - - 63:188 (1989) -
YALU88301 MM - - - 125:12 (Jan 1989) -
YALU88301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198918802/Asia-Nepal-Yalungkang - - -