Yalung Kang | 1987 S Face

A USA expedition to Yalung Kang in 1987 via S Face, led by Magda King Nos Loppe. Summit reached on 12th October 1987. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 890
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID YALU87301
Peak ID YALU
Year 1987
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Magda King Nos Loppe
Sponsor First American Yalungkang Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Spain
Approach Hile->Taplejung
Basecamp Date 1987-08-30
Summit Date 1987-10-12
Summit Time -
Summit Days 43
Total Days 50
Termination Date 1987-10-19
Termination Reason 7
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8100m due to Farkas frostbite and lack of food supplies
High Point (m) 8100
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(30/08,5400m),C1(15/09,6250m),C2(20/09,6400m),C3(30/09,7000m),C4(10/10,7700m),xxx(12/10,8100m)
Route Notes BC at normal BC site (same as Belgians and Australians) C1 at top of 3rd of 3 Steps C2 1/3 way up 2nd Icefall C3 at top of 2nd Icefall C4 on shelf upper end of Great Shelf High point on South Face. Quite a bit of bad weather in early Sept. Alpine-style above C2 with cache at 7000m. Had intended to put 7200m but that would have been too far above C2. Started summit bid from BC 7 Oct and snow had eliminated C1. Oct 9 to C3, Oct 10th made C4. 11th Ongchu Sherpa, Farkas and Narayan Shrestha left for top while King stayed in camp since wind had taken way her down jacket. Stopped by bad snow conditions and crevasses before reached Austrian-German couloir and turned back at about 7900m and slept at C4. 12 Oct Farkas and Narayan again towards summit by new route directly up South Face (right of 1984 and Polish-Spanish climb) and got to 8100m. Farkas fell about 300m bouncing down South Face and climb finished. Fall did no damage but sometime during these attempts Farkas got frostbite in fingers and toes and possibly will lose tips of these. Took long time for him to get down and they stuck on mountain when began snowing on 15th and now food almost gone because 3 weeks supply stolen before reached BC. Stuck in Belgiums C1 tent 15th and arrived at BC 20th (had waited 2 days for snow to settle). Smith brothers and Welch left 5 Oct out of boredom. Did go briefly to C1 but not climbers.
Accidents Farkas frostbitten feet and toes
Achievement -
Agency Kunga
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450778
Year 1987
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
James (Jim) Farkas M 1955 USA Climber El Segundo, California Aerospace engineer Details Other expeditions
Magda King Nos Loppe F 1947 Spain/USA Leader Denver, Colorado Business-woman (import-export) Details Other expeditions
Charles Smith M 1962 USA Climber Minneapolis, Minnesota Student Details Other expeditions
John Smith M 1956 USA Exp Doctor Denver, Colorado Physician Details Other expeditions
Dana Welch F 1962 USA BC Manager Denver, Colorado Saleswoman Details Other expeditions
Narayan Kumar Shrestha M 1960 Nepal H-A Worker Kabre (now Dhulikel) Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ongchu Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
YALU87301 AAJ King, Magda - - 62:188-190 (1988) -
YALU87301 MM - - - 120:11 (Mar 1988) -
YALU87301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198818802/Asia-Nepal-Yalung-Kang-Attempt - - -