Yalung Kang | 1984 SE Couloir

A France expedition to Yalung Kang in 1984 via SE Couloir, led by Bernard Muller. Summit reached on 8th October 1984. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 991
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID YALU84302
Peak ID YALU
Year 1984
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Couloir
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Bernard Muller
Sponsor Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne (GMHM)
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 8th,9th,11th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1984-09-14
Summit Date 1984-10-08
Summit Time -
Summit Days 24
Total Days 37
Termination Date 1984-10-21
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8505
Traverse False
Ski True
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 200
Total Members 6
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(14/09,5200m),C1(18/09,6200m),C2(26/09,7200m),C3(05/10,7800m),Smt(08,10,20/10)
Route Notes BC same as Poles (higher than usual site) C3 at foot of couloir. Most difficult part is 50-degrees steep couloir, but no great technical difficulties. Some danger with seracs between BC and C2. Fixed about 200m between C1 and C2. Two members left a little early after their summit success. Bernard Muller - 12 Nov 84 Muller believes Baud probably reached summit on 10 Oct before Poles. Previous day's summiter had made excellent track, so he could move quickly, and he was back down before Poles (though he skied part of the way down). Ms Gautier De la Ferriere - 4 Nov 84 Miss Gautier before above 6400m (Glacier Dome in autumn 1983). "Acclimatizing to 8520m? Yes, it was difficult but no more difficulty than the others." She was late to top because bad weather after 11th to 17th and she had take antibiotics for tonsilitis early in expedition. Muller and she established C3 on 5th but tired and felt not acclimatized enough and then bad weather. Other members called porters for 22nd. Gautier and Muller reached Peak 21st at 6:30-7:00 pm. Psychological pressure on them since same members had already left. Now goes to Annapurna I in winter and hopes to try (1988?) for Everest via South Col. Now I like to go to Everest, the top of the world (but "I don't know now" about all 8000ers).
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449676
Year 1984
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se couloir

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Anselme Francois Baud M 1948 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Gerard Bretin M 1947 France Climber Le Sappey-en-Chartreuse, Isere, France Economics teacher Details Other expeditions
Jean Coudray M 1942 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine & skiing instructor Details Other expeditions
Laurence Gautier De La Ferriere F 1957 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Bernard Roger Muller M 1952 France Leader Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jacky Peche M 1953 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
YALU84302 AAJ Muller, Bernard - - 59:251 (1985) -
YALU84302 - De La Ferriere, Laurence 8000 Metres et Quelques Reves Bueb & Reumaux, Strasbourg, France - L04
YALU84302 MM - - - 102:13 (Mar 1985) -
YALU84302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198525101/Asia-Nepal-Yalung-Kang - - -