Yalung Kang | 1981 N Face-N Ridge of Kangchenjunga

A USA expedition to Yalung Kang in 1981 via N Face-N Ridge of Kangchenjunga, led by Chris Chandler. Summit reached on 19th May 1981. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1814
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID YALU81101
Peak ID YALU
Year 1981
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face-N Ridge of Kangchenjunga
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Chris Chandler
Sponsor 1981 Yalungkang Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1981-03-29
Summit Date 1981-05-19
Summit Time -
Summit Days 51
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 8
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 90
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(29/03,5140m),C1(07/04,5500m),C2(14/04,6000m),C3(29/04,6500m),Biv1(07/05,6900m),Biv2(08/05,7200m),Biv3(09/05,7350m),Biv4(10/05,7600m),Biv5(18/05,7900m),xxx(19/05,8000m)
Route Notes Chandler & Bremer - 8 June 81 We put in 90 meters fixed rope whereas Japnanese had thousands of meters. Put in our 90 meters above 1st icefield and then serac fell and wiped it out. Took 3 weeks to get on 3 camps in, 4th week equipment buried and had to scrounge for food in lost camps, pitons, lines, good goggles. This took technical aspects of climb out of question from and on C3, we went off from Czechs left and met North Ridge at end of a couloir at end of Col and thus met Scott route at about 7350m. Followed ridge/Scott route and put snow cave just below rock band at about 7600m where had to wait for better weather were now on 1/2 rations. Returned to C3 at 6500m where had tent. Couple days rest then weather good. Returned to snow cave on Scott and continued on up this route but bivy bag had been buried in avalanche, and from high point about 8000m reached could see could see highly technical climbing ahead and need for protection of pitons, etc. and no bivy sack and cold feet literally so gave up. Could have gone to Kangchenjunga summit with no trouble at all but too many watching and wanted to stick to rules. Then had 2-1/2 days ratians and 2 fuel cartridges left and pretty worn out. BC - 29 March - 5139m C1 - 7 April - 5500m C2 - 14 April - about 6000m C3 - 29 April - 6500m Arrived 2nd May took away cache at base of 1st ice cliff at 6350-6400m when men were in C2. 1st biv - 6900m - 7 May 2nd biv - 7200m - 8 May 3rd biv - 7350m - 8 May 4th biv - 7600m - 10 May Down on 12 May to C3 because of storm. Started up again on 17 May and reached 3rd biv that day. On 18th passed 4th bivouac and made new bivouac at 7900m. 19 May - climbed snowfield to right and reached close to base of Kangchenjunga (never did reach rocks of Yalung Kang, would have taken 2-3 days more to Yalung Kang summit) at about 8000m and returned all way to C3. Felt quite acclimatized and enjoyed being able to move freely and quickly on mountain. Cherie B-K - 7 June 81 Returned Friday 5 June. Not successful but felt like good attempt, reached 8000m on shoestring. "Like to go back." Arrived 1-2 May cooked own and Czech's food, fixed line and hardware 1 May between C2 and C3 (about same as Japanese). Abandoned original route because avalanche consumed entire route (most high avalanche ever seen) so were on Japanese route: ice cliff done and Czech's caught up so went to North Col and onto big sugarloaf above Col to 2 snow gullies. Gullies 200 feet of rock which required fixed line and beyond capabilities at that time. Line and hardware gone in avalanche. Good weather then, turned back about 20 May. Both Ok. Cheri some frostbite one toe, but will be Ok. No accidents. Chris Chandler - 7 March 81 Number of possible routes - a rib on North Face. Direct on Japanese North Face 1980 Spring route to 3rd icefield and right to Yalung Kang summit. Depends on safety routes and other factors. Will acclimatize on North Face direct route, then if not feasible to go to top this way, will come down and do alternate route. BC at Pangpema and ABC at 5500m. A camp on face will be last camp, altitude not known. Leave KTM Tuesday 10 March by bus to Dharan and thence on foot to Pangpema in 2 weeks from Dharan so arrive BC before 1 April. Summit attempt 1st 2 weeks in May. 1 Sherpa will help carry loads on face to 1st and only camp on face. No oxygen. 1981 Yalung Kang Expedition
Accidents Chris frostbite on toe
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448435
Year 1981
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face-n ridge of kangchenjunga

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Cherie Louise Bremer-Kamp F 1945 Australia Climber Seattle, Washington Nurse Details Other expeditions
Chris Howard Chandler M 1948 USA Leader Bainbridge Island, Washington Physician Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
YALU81101 AAJ Chandler, Chris - - 56:196-198 (1982) -
YALU81101 HJ Chandler, Chris & Bremer-Kamp, Cherie Yalungkang: A Two-Person Attempt - 38:26-30 (1980-1981) -
YALU81101 MM - - - 80:12 (Jul 1981) -
YALU81101 MM Bremerkamp, Cheri & Chandler, Chris Yalungkang - 88:32-37 (Nov 1982) -
YALU81101 - Bremer-Kamp, Cherie Living on the Edge - - B558
YALU81101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198219603/Asia-Nepal-Yalungkang-Attempt - - -
YALU81101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/38/5/yalungkang-a-two-person-attempt/ - - -