Yalung Kang | 1974 SE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Yalung Kang in 1974 via SE Ridge, led by Shojiro Toriumi. Summit reached on 14th May 1974. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2324
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID YALU74101
Peak ID YALU
Year 1974
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Shojiro Toriumi
Sponsor Nihon University
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Dharan->Yalung Glacier (BC)
Basecamp Date 1974-03-21
Summit Date 1974-05-14
Summit Time -
Summit Days 54
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8400m due to bad weather
High Point (m) 8400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 12
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 16
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown True
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(21/03,5250m),C1(02/04,6000m),C3(19/04,7000m),C4,C5(13/04,7950m),xxx(14/04,8400m)
Route Notes Hirano - 3 June 74 Hirano and Hiyama arrive 1 June, all others about 15 June. Turned back from probably 8400m (summit 8500m) because weather bad; very deep snow there and route far from last camp to summit. Needed one more camp. C5 at 7950m. Needed about C6 but this expedition hadn't facilities. C4 -> C5 difficult climb. MP Khanal, MFA - 26 May 74 Abandoned attempt, reached 8400m on 14 May by 2 members Pasang Sherpa and Ryuji Hirano, but could not reach summit because bad weather and snowfall. C5 established by Kato and 6 Sherpas 13 May at 7950m. SE ridge difficult because very deep snow; route is possible but problem is very big mountain. All well, no accident. Hirano - 14 Feb 74 Leader and 4 arrive today and Hirano here earlier. 5 others already arrived, left yesterday by bus to Dharan. Those in KTM leave KTM 18 Feb to Biratnagar and meet there those who left by bus. Leave Dharan 19 Feb. About 40 days caravan to BC on Yalung Glacier about 5400m. Reach BC end March/1st April. Route from SE Ridge. 1955 British route up to 7000m, from which new route via SE Ridge, but not sure because may be many dangerous snow avalanches and may have to shift route. Final ridge sharp knife-ridge rather long. Kyoto Univ route was SW Ridge. 6 camps above BC, highest at 8000m Summit about 10 May; hope put 2 or 3 teams on top but very difficult. 20 Sherpas including mailrunner; 16 climbing Sherpas.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2445866
Year 1974
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Unknown
Route (lowercase) se ridge

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Pasang Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Kiyoshi Seita M 1909 Japan Honorary Leader Tokyo, Japan Professor of engineering Details Other expeditions
Shojiro Toriumi M 1928 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Katsuhiko Miyoshi M 1943 Japan Climber Kitaturu, Yamanashi, Japan Teacher in primary school Details Other expeditions
Shoji Kato M 1945 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Isamu Furuhata M 1945 Japan Climber Kamiminochi, Nagano, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Ryuji Hirano M 1947 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Norio Hiyama M 1947 Japan Climber Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Nobutoshi Hangai M 1947 Japan Climber Sukagawa, Fukushima, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Masayuki Nakayama M 1946 Japan Climber Higashi-Ibaragi, Ibaragi, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Masao Nishikawa M 1947 Japan Climber Matsudo, Chiba, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Yuji Fukushima M 1947 Japan Climber Ooe, Tottori, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Shinji Munakata M 1950 Japan Climber Sukagawa, Fukushima, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
YALU74101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 49:193 (1975) -
YALU74101 IWA - - - 42:24 (1975) -
YALU74101 JAC Ishizaka, Shojiro From Manaslu to Yalung Kang - 69:97-106 (1974) -
YALU74101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197519301/Asia-Nepal-Yalungkang - - -