Yalung Kang | 1973 SW Ridge

A Japan expedition to Yalung Kang in 1973 via SW Ridge, led by Haruo Higuchi. Summit reached on 14th May 1973. 16 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2353
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID YALU73101
Peak ID YALU
Year 1973
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Haruo Higuchi
Sponsor Kyoto University Yalung Khang Expedition 1973
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st claimed
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Dharan->Taplejung->Tseram
Basecamp Date 1973-03-29
Summit Date 1973-05-14
Summit Time 1800
Summit Days 46
Total Days 54
Termination Date 1973-05-22
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes Success claimed, but one member died on descent
High Point (m) 8505
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 15
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 10
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(29/03,4600m),C1(02/04,5950m),C2(11/04,6470m),C3(6990m),C4(26/04,7440m),C5(12/05,8000m),Smt(14/05)
Route Notes Captain Chester - 29 May 73 Most of others left base camp. Ageta and Co at base camp at beginning of Yalung Glacier, waiting for helicopter since Sunday at least. Ageta, Tazuke and Higuchi arrive today. Ageta right hand and both feet frostbitten - feet not so serious: toes 1st joints; 4 fingers right hand 2nd joint to strong [?] of frostbite. Could find only broken shaft of ice axe of Matsuda, but not body near deposit point of oxygen at 8100m. Highest of final C5 almost 8000m; returned to 8300m on 14th May after summit. Summit 6:00 pm 14 May. Stayed 30 minutes and started down and forced to biv about 8300m. At 6:00 am could 2 men at biv walking. We watched from base camp. Weather very fine and watched between am and evening accident happened. Higuchi - 14 Feb 73 6 members arrived KTM 8 Feb. 3 members now in CCU (Calcutta). 6 now in Dharan. Caravan starts from Dharan. 20 Feb 6 members in KTM fly to Dharan 16 Feb. Establish BC 20 March on Yalung Glacier. Climb via middle SW Ridge of mixed rock and snow. 6 high camps with summit attempt mid-May. 10 high altitude Sherpas.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2445500
Year 1973
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

16 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Eizaburo Nishibori M 1903 Japan Head of Organization Osaka, Japan Professor of geophysics at Ehime University Details Other expeditions
Haruo Higuchi M 1929 Japan Leader Kyoto, Japan Surgeon & research member of medical dept of Kyoto University Details Other expeditions
Atsuo Saito M 1929 Japan Exp Doctor Kyoto, Japan Surgeon & research member of medical dept of Kyoto University Details Other expeditions
Shigeo Tazuke M 1935 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Associate professor, Tokyo Institute of Technology Details Other expeditions
Kojiro Tomita M 1939 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Research member of Institute of Architecture Details Other expeditions
Hiromichi Yoshino M 1940 Japan Climber Okayama, Japan Lecturer at Okayama University Details Other expeditions
Takao Matsuda M 1941 Japan Climber Kyoto, Japan Lecturer in domestic science (home science) at St. Agnes College Details Other expeditions
Yoshiaki Kamiyama M 1942 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Resigned from his position of salesman with Toray Co. Details Other expeditions
Yutaka Ageta M 1943 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Post graduate student in glaciology at Nagoya University Details Other expeditions
Kiyoshi Asano M 1944 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Lecturer in arcitecture at Osaka University Details Other expeditions
Jiro Inoue M 1945 Japan Climber Kyoto, Japan Postgraduate student in meterology at Kyoto University Details Other expeditions
Kunio Kai M 1947 Japan Climber Kyoto, Japan Postgraduate student in geology at Kyoto University Details Other expeditions
Rikuyo Morimoto M 1948 Japan Climber Kyoto, Japan Postgraduate student in agricultural engineering at Kyoto Univ. Details Other expeditions
Shinichi Takagi M 1949 Japan Climber Kyoto, Japan Medical school student (Kyoto University) Details Other expeditions
Tetsuro Matsuzawa M 1950 Japan Climber Kyoto, Japan Psychology student at Kyoto University Details Other expeditions
Karma Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

11 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
YALU73101 AAJ - - - 48:202-203 (1974) -
YALU73101 JAC Higushi, Haruo The First Ascent of Yalung Kang, 1973 - 68:1-8 (1973) -
YALU73101 AJ Higuchi, Haruo The First Ascent of Yalung Kang - 80:17-28 (1975) -
YALU73101 MM - - - 29:13 (Sep 1973) -
YALU73101 - Academic Alpine Club of Kyoto Yalung Kang Asahi Newspaper, Tokyo - jK170
YALU73101 JAC Higushi, Haruo The First Ascent of Yalung Kang, 1973 - 68:1-19 (1973) -
YALU73101 - Ageta, Yutaka Afterglow on Yalung Kang Chuokoron, Tokyo - jA30
YALU73101 - Ageta, Yutaka Yalung Kang in Twilight Chuokoron, Tokyo - jA30
YALU73101 - Academic Alpine Club of Kyoto University The FIrst Ascent of Yalung Kang Academic Alpine Club of Kyoto University, Kyoto - JK170
YALU73101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197420202/Asia-Nepal-Yalung-Kang-or-Kangchenjunga-West - - -
YALU73101 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1975_files/AJ%201975%2017-27%20Higuchi%20YKang.pdf - - -