Yalung Kang | 1973 SW Ridge
A Japan expedition to Yalung Kang in 1973 via SW Ridge, led by Haruo Higuchi. Summit reached on 14th May 1973. 16 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2353 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | YALU73101 |
| Peak ID | YALU |
| Year | 1973 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SW Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Haruo Higuchi |
| Sponsor | Kyoto University Yalung Khang Expedition 1973 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 1st claimed |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Dharan->Taplejung->Tseram |
| Basecamp Date | 1973-03-29 |
| Summit Date | 1973-05-14 |
| Summit Time | 1800 |
| Summit Days | 46 |
| Total Days | 54 |
| Termination Date | 1973-05-22 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | Success claimed, but one member died on descent |
| High Point (m) | 8505 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 5 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 15 |
| Summit Members | 2 |
| Member Deaths | 1 |
| Total Hired | 10 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(29/03,4600m),C1(02/04,5950m),C2(11/04,6470m),C3(6990m),C4(26/04,7440m),C5(12/05,8000m),Smt(14/05) |
| Route Notes | Captain Chester - 29 May 73 Most of others left base camp. Ageta and Co at base camp at beginning of Yalung Glacier, waiting for helicopter since Sunday at least. Ageta, Tazuke and Higuchi arrive today. Ageta right hand and both feet frostbitten - feet not so serious: toes 1st joints; 4 fingers right hand 2nd joint to strong [?] of frostbite. Could find only broken shaft of ice axe of Matsuda, but not body near deposit point of oxygen at 8100m. Highest of final C5 almost 8000m; returned to 8300m on 14th May after summit. Summit 6:00 pm 14 May. Stayed 30 minutes and started down and forced to biv about 8300m. At 6:00 am could 2 men at biv walking. We watched from base camp. Weather very fine and watched between am and evening accident happened. Higuchi - 14 Feb 73 6 members arrived KTM 8 Feb. 3 members now in CCU (Calcutta). 6 now in Dharan. Caravan starts from Dharan. 20 Feb 6 members in KTM fly to Dharan 16 Feb. Establish BC 20 March on Yalung Glacier. Climb via middle SW Ridge of mixed rock and snow. 6 high camps with summit attempt mid-May. 10 high altitude Sherpas. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2445500 |
| Year | 1973 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | sw ridge |
Members
16 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Eizaburo Nishibori | M | 1903 | Japan | Head of Organization | Osaka, Japan | Professor of geophysics at Ehime University | Details Other expeditions |
| Haruo Higuchi | M | 1929 | Japan | Leader | Kyoto, Japan | Surgeon & research member of medical dept of Kyoto University | Details Other expeditions |
| Atsuo Saito | M | 1929 | Japan | Exp Doctor | Kyoto, Japan | Surgeon & research member of medical dept of Kyoto University | Details Other expeditions |
| Shigeo Tazuke | M | 1935 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Associate professor, Tokyo Institute of Technology | Details Other expeditions |
| Kojiro Tomita | M | 1939 | Japan | Climber | Osaka, Japan | Research member of Institute of Architecture | Details Other expeditions |
| Hiromichi Yoshino | M | 1940 | Japan | Climber | Okayama, Japan | Lecturer at Okayama University | Details Other expeditions |
| Takao Matsuda | M | 1941 | Japan | Climber | Kyoto, Japan | Lecturer in domestic science (home science) at St. Agnes College | Details Other expeditions |
| Yoshiaki Kamiyama | M | 1942 | Japan | Climber | Osaka, Japan | Resigned from his position of salesman with Toray Co. | Details Other expeditions |
| Yutaka Ageta | M | 1943 | Japan | Climber | Nagoya, Japan | Post graduate student in glaciology at Nagoya University | Details Other expeditions |
| Kiyoshi Asano | M | 1944 | Japan | Climber | Osaka, Japan | Lecturer in arcitecture at Osaka University | Details Other expeditions |
| Jiro Inoue | M | 1945 | Japan | Climber | Kyoto, Japan | Postgraduate student in meterology at Kyoto University | Details Other expeditions |
| Kunio Kai | M | 1947 | Japan | Climber | Kyoto, Japan | Postgraduate student in geology at Kyoto University | Details Other expeditions |
| Rikuyo Morimoto | M | 1948 | Japan | Climber | Kyoto, Japan | Postgraduate student in agricultural engineering at Kyoto Univ. | Details Other expeditions |
| Shinichi Takagi | M | 1949 | Japan | Climber | Kyoto, Japan | Medical school student (Kyoto University) | Details Other expeditions |
| Tetsuro Matsuzawa | M | 1950 | Japan | Climber | Kyoto, Japan | Psychology student at Kyoto University | Details Other expeditions |
| Karma Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
11 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| YALU73101 | AAJ | - | - | - | 48:202-203 (1974) | - |
| YALU73101 | JAC | Higushi, Haruo | The First Ascent of Yalung Kang, 1973 | - | 68:1-8 (1973) | - |
| YALU73101 | AJ | Higuchi, Haruo | The First Ascent of Yalung Kang | - | 80:17-28 (1975) | - |
| YALU73101 | MM | - | - | - | 29:13 (Sep 1973) | - |
| YALU73101 | - | Academic Alpine Club of Kyoto | Yalung Kang | Asahi Newspaper, Tokyo | - | jK170 |
| YALU73101 | JAC | Higushi, Haruo | The First Ascent of Yalung Kang, 1973 | - | 68:1-19 (1973) | - |
| YALU73101 | - | Ageta, Yutaka | Afterglow on Yalung Kang | Chuokoron, Tokyo | - | jA30 |
| YALU73101 | - | Ageta, Yutaka | Yalung Kang in Twilight | Chuokoron, Tokyo | - | jA30 |
| YALU73101 | - | Academic Alpine Club of Kyoto University | The FIrst Ascent of Yalung Kang | Academic Alpine Club of Kyoto University, Kyoto | - | JK170 |
| YALU73101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197420202/Asia-Nepal-Yalung-Kang-or-Kangchenjunga-West | - | - | - |
| YALU73101 | - | - | https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1975_files/AJ%201975%2017-27%20Higuchi%20YKang.pdf | - | - | - |