Yalung Kang | 2004 SE Ridge

A S Korea expedition to Yalung Kang in 2004 via SE Ridge, led by Um Hong-Gil. Summit reached on 5th May 2004. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4659
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID YALU04101
Peak ID YALU
Year 2004
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality S Korea
Leaders Um Hong-Gil
Sponsor 2004 Korean Yalung Kang Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 19th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2004-03-29
Summit Date 2004-05-05
Summit Time 1508
Summit Days 37
Total Days 44
Termination Date 2004-05-12
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8505
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 3500
Total Members 11
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 7
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(29/03,5500m),C1(09/04,6100m),C2(12/04,6700m),C3(20/04,7300m),LowerC4(22/04,7600m),UpperC5(04/05,7900m),Smt(05/05)
Route Notes BC at Yalung Glacier on rocky area C3 at Great shelf's lower edge. Um spent 5 days at C3 waiting for good weather for summit push. Got bad throat infection which made it difficult for him to speak above whisper. On 22nd April made a C4 at 7600m and on 23rd to 7800m (Um, Ha, Shin, Pasang Namygal and Phur Gyalzen) and stopped by heavy snowfall and heavy cloud cover so down to BC on 23rd April. Left BC for another bid for top 28th (Um, Ha,Shin, and 6 Sherpas) to C1, to C2 29th, C3 30th; stayed in C3 to 3rd May because very strong wind. 4th May Um to new C4 at 7900m with 6 Sherpas and 4 Sherpas back to C3 while Um, Pasang Namgyal and Phur Gyalzen stayed in new C4. 5 May Um and they 2 Sherpas left C4 at 3:30 am and on top at 3:08 pm in clear weather but strong wind. Down to C3 at 9:00 pm and BC 6 May. Climb now finished. Fixed total 3500m; BC to C1 800m, C1 to C2 600m C2 to C3 800m, C3 to upper C4 700m and upper C4 to top 600m. Oxygen: Um used climbing from upper C4 to top; took it off at top for 30-40 minutes taking pictures, on again intermittently climbing down from top to upper C4. Sherpas clmbing from upper C4 to top, while on top and down for top intermittents to upper C4. Sherpa summiters: Pasang Namgyal, 31/1/73, Khumjung, Everest North 21/5 Phur Gyalzen, 16/4/70, Thami, Yilajung, Everest 22/5/03, Cho Oyu 27/9/03
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Windhorse Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2456845
Year 2004
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) se ridge

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Young-Ho Ahn M 1944 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea University professor of Malaya language Details Other expeditions
Dong-Sik Cho M 1950 S Korea Leader Seoul, S Korea President of information technology company Details Other expeditions
Gwang-Deuk Choi M 1966 S Korea Climber Daegu (Taegu), S Korea Alpine school instructor Details Other expeditions
Ho-Sung Ha M 1982 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Student of music competition Details Other expeditions
Yong-Kwon Jung M 1962 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Sports magazine reporter Details Other expeditions
Dong-Soo Kim M 1957 S Korea Climber Guri, Gyeonggi, S Korea Private school manager Details Other expeditions
Sol-Meh Kim M 1982 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Student of Arabic Details Other expeditions
Ki-Tak Nam M 1944 S Korea Exp Doctor Busan (Pusan), S Korea Physician Details Other expeditions
Dong-Seom Shin M 1981 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Student of Spanish Details Other expeditions
Yong-Seok Song M 1965 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Internet program provider Details Other expeditions
Hong-Gil Um M 1960 S Korea Climbing Leader Seoul, S Korea Marketing manager of trekking and climbing shoes manufacturer Details Other expeditions
Pasang Namgyal Sherpa M 1972 Nepal H-A Worker Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Phur Gyalzen (Fur Geljen) Sherpa M 1970 Nepal H-A Worker Yilajung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
YALU04101 CLIM - - - 5:84 (Jul 2005) -