Urkinmang | 1999 W Ridge

A France expedition to Urkinmang in 1999 via W Ridge, led by Francois Damilano. Summit reached on 15th May 1999. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 3862
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID URKM99101
Peak ID URKM
Year 1999
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge
Route 2 NE Face to North rib up; W Ridge down
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Francois Damilano
Sponsor -
Success 1 True
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 6th
Ascent 2 7th
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Langtang valley to Syabru Bensi to Langshisa Kharka
Basecamp Date -
Summit Date 1999-05-15
Summit Time -
Summit Days 0
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6143
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(5400m),Smt(15,18/05)
Route Notes BC at foot of moraine of Trupaiku Tsang Glacier BC is at the left bank of the river at the foot of the moraine of the Trupaiku Langshisa Tsang Glacier. Route lay along the moraine on the left side of the Glacier, 5 hours walk to the foot of the NE Face of the mountain. This was the perfect site for a base camp or an advance base camp; this team established their Advance Base Camp here. * Note: Rest should be translated from Vertical, Sept-Oct 1999, pg with sketch map. Jugal Himal - Urkinmang Previously unreported from the spring season are two ascents of this little peak immediately east of Gangchempo and south of the Langshisa Glacier. From a camp at 5400m close to Tilman's Col the French guide Francois Damilano follow country woman. Martine Girod the well known Swiss climber Vincent Sprungli and Gumbu Sherpa reached the 6151m summit on the 15th May via the West Ridge. The upper crust was quite narrow and exposed involving 10 pitches up to 80 degrees and comparable with the Brenva Spur on Mont Blanc. This outing provided a suitable background for Damilano and Sprungli to attempt the virgin NE Face three days later. This 1450m face lies to the left of the North Rib successfully signed by the Joint Japanese-Nepalese expedition of 1994. It is characterized by a long snow couloir leading to a difficult mixed section, above which the pair joined the North Rib and finished up this to the summit. The difficulties were deemed comparable with the North Face of Les Droites and the pair descended safely once more via the West Ridge. Urkinmang was first climbed in 1964 via the South Face by a Japanese team from Osaka University after falling on their main objective. Langtang Lirung. It then had at least three known unauthorized ascents in the 70's via the NW Ridge, the West Ridge (Swiss in 1971) and the SW Ridge. The 1994 Japanese ascent was the fifth known.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency None
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2455023
Year 1999
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Francois Damilano M 1959 France Leader Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Vincent Sprungli M - France Climber Annecy, Haute-Savoie, France Music teacher Details Other expeditions
Martine Girod F - France Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Gumbu Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
URKM99101 HIGH - - - 207:58 (Feb 2000) -