Tutse | 2003 NE Ridge

A Denmark expedition to Tutse in 2003 via NE Ridge, led by Claus Ostergaard. Summit reached on 17th October 2003. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4516
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID TUTS03301
Peak ID TUTS
Year 2003
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Denmark
Leaders Claus Ostergaard
Sponsor Ticket to Heaven 2003 Mt. Tutse Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Arun River->Sedua->Tashigaon->Barun La->Lower Barun
Basecamp Date 2003-10-15
Summit Date 2003-10-17
Summit Time -
Summit Days 2
Total Days 9
Termination Date 2003-10-24
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 5000m due to dangerous conditions
High Point (m) 5000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed unnamed peak of 5822m (Oct 23 by all members)
Campsites BC(15/10,4400m),C1(17/10,5000m),xxx(19/10,5000m)
Route Notes Maoist at Sedua exhausted Rs 5000 per foreigner, Sherpa Rs 1500, cook Rs 500 and porters Rs 50. BC at 4400m Barun River on Oct 15 C1 at 5000m below start of NE Ridge (just below it) on Oct 17 xxx at 5000m by all 3 members Biv at 4900m west of unnamed Peak 5822m on Oct 21 C1 at 5170m in glacier basin to west of Peak 5822m on Oct 22 Peak 5822 summit on Oct 23 From BC tried 2 ways to get to C1 but couloir led to vertical rocks; another gully for the west but at 5000m got into cloud with no visibility so turned back without knowing whether this way was possible. On 3rd try found flat spot next to NE Ridge. Wanted now to climb East Face to North Ridge at 6000m but dangerous: icefall south of NE Ridge and in area seracs falling often and steep technical rocks climbing in long sections and back to BC. On 19th split into 2 parties: Hogedal and Ostergaard went back to C1 looking for options on East Face but found none, so took down C1 and returned to BC. Ortmann and Pemba Sherpa went up SE Ridge of Peak 4 to 5000m to look at NW Ridge of Peak 6 and saw nightmare of very unstable ice with frequent avalanching so back to BC. Concluded NE Ridge was only safe route but difficult one and abandoned climb of Peak 6 and went to a mountain south of Peak 5 and climbed this 5822m unnamed peak; camped at 4000m on 21 Oct west of this mountain 22 Oct. Went into glacier basin at 5170m. 23 Oct found way around many crevasses and glacial labyrinth in basin to pass at 5600m North Ridge of Peak 5822m and then to top via this steep snow and ice ridge to top of Peak 5822m; snow camp and went towards BC but weather turned bad with snowfall and poor visibility, got lost for hours and finally reached original BC (4400m) at 7:00 pm.
Accidents -
Achievement 1st attempt on Peak 6; 1st attempt of unnamed peak of 5822m which was summited
Agency Arun Treks
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2456598
Year 2003
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Luise Hogedal Ortmann F 1977 Denmark Climber Gorlose, Denmark Florist Details Other expeditions
Thejs Ortmann M 1975 Denmark Climber Gorlose, Denmark Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Claus Ostergaard M 1973 Denmark Leader Copenhagen, Denmark Geologist Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
TUTS03301 AAJ Griffin, Lindsay - - 78:411 (2004) -
TUTS03301 HIGH - - - 265:59 (Dec 2004) -
TUTS03301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200441101/Asia-Nepal-Mahalangur-Asia-Nepal-Barun-Tutse-Attempt - - -