Tukuche | 1997 SW Ridge

A Australia expedition to Tukuche in 1997 via SW Ridge, led by Alex Van Roy. Summit reached on 3rd May 1997. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2207
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID TUKU97101
Peak ID TUKU
Year 1997
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Australia
Leaders Alex Van Roy
Sponsor Australian Army Alpine Association Tukuche Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Germany
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1997-04-18
Summit Date 1997-05-03
Summit Time -
Summit Days 15
Total Days 23
Termination Date 1997-05-11
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned on 4 May due to difficulty of route
High Point (m) 6690
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(18/04,4500m),ABC.GlacierCamp(25/04,5500m),C1(29/04,5900m),C2(02/05,6400m),xxx(03-04/05,6690m)
Route Notes BC at Dhaulagiri BC site ABC on glacier west of SW Ridge C1 below and west of NE Col C2 on west side of SW Ridge High point at South Summit. 3 May Van Roy and Hackett reached South Summit and found beyond was 4 inches of soft snow on hard ice so couldn't put in any protection. On western side of ridge to main summit was 60-degree ice and eastern side similarly steep. So decision taken 3 May not to try traverse to main summit. Total 8 members reached South Summit. * South Summit: 4 May all other members except Smith and Banfield, who had altitude problems (Banfield then stayed with Australian Dhaulagiri team and their BC manager). Route too difficult for this team to continue.
Accidents Banfield and Smith altitude problem and stopped climbing; Clifton also altitude sickness
Achievement -
Agency Wilderness Experience
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454234
Year 1997
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Lindsay Adams M 1962 Australia Deputy Leader Bondi, NSW, Australia Army Major Details Other expeditions
Martin Banfield M 1971 Australia Climber Carlingford, NSW, Australia Army Captain Details Other expeditions
Robb Clifton M 1972 Australia Climber Perth, WA, Australia Army Captain Details Other expeditions
Michael James Cook M 1968 Australia Climber Turramurra, Sydney, NSW, Australia Army Captain Details Other expeditions
David Paul Donaldson M 1965 Australia Climber Campbell, ACT, Australia Army Captain (helicopter pilot) Details Other expeditions
Jameson A. (Jamie) Hackett M 1973 Australia Climber Townsville, QLD, Australia Army Lieutenant Details Other expeditions
Andrea Jopp-McKay F 1958 Germany Climber Mosman, NSW, Australia Physician Details Other expeditions
David McKay M 1957 Australia Exp Doctor Mosman, NSW, Australia Physician Details Other expeditions
David Smith M 1958 Australia Climber Northward, Townsville, QLD, Australia Physician Details Other expeditions
Alex Van Roy M 1965 Australia Leader Springwood, NSW, Australia Army Major Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
TUKU97101 AAJ - - - 72:303 (1998) -
TUKU97101 HIGH - - - 179:31-32 (Oct 1997) -
TUKU97101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199830302/Asia-Nepal-Tukuche-Ascent-and-Attempts - - -