Tukuche | 1990 NW Ridge

A Greece expedition to Tukuche in 1990 via NW Ridge, led by Eleni Stamatakis. Summit reached on 24th October 1990. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 662
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID TUKU90301
Peak ID TUKU
Year 1990
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Greece
Leaders Eleni Stamatakis
Sponsor Greek Expedition to Tukuche
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 14th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed True
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1990-10-19
Summit Date 1990-10-24
Summit Time 1400
Summit Days 5
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6920
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(19/10,5000m),C1(22/10,6000m),C2(23/10,6600m),Smt(24/10)
Route Notes BC at SW of point 5182m on Dhaulagiri map C1 on NW Ridge C2 on NW Ridge. 24th Oct 3 summiters left C2 at 6:00 am and reached top at 2 pm; very deep (waist deep) snow, avalanching and crevasses so must slowly probing for crevasses. Last part to top 70 degrees. Very strong cold wind (-35 at summit). Climbed without full acclimatization because wanted to finish quickly before weather became worse. Very tired during 24th Oct ascent but never thought of turning back ("she is very obstinate"). Kept good appetite. Sherpas very important to her success; without them, not successful. Leader of Greeks to Cho Oyu in Spring 1991 said there is grave doubt in Greece of her claim of success and she has been expelled from Greek Alpine Club.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency International Trekkers (Intrek Asia)
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451844
Year 1990
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
George Stamatakis M 1932 Greece Climber Athens, Greece Merchant (spare parts for household appliances) Details Other expeditions
Eleni Stamatakis F 1938 Greece Leader Athens, Greece Housewife Details Other expeditions
Dawa Phuri Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Tshering Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
TUKU90301 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 65:241 (1991) -
TUKU90301 MM - - - 137:9 (Jan 1991) -
TUKU90301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199124103/Asia-Nepal-Tukuche - - -